Typhon Typhon TLR steering issue

[tybreezy]

So I recently had my front assembly put back together and had the center diff fluid changed to 1million (recommended by LHS based on my street setup) and now under power it seems to be a handful to keep straight. What could be some possible solutions to this? I'm new to this kind of thing! The front and rear diff fluid was left alone as recommended.

 

[EJunlimited]

Any shims used for front diff?

 

[Johnny b]

Who put the front end assembly back together..you or hobby shop? Were any new parts added or exchanged out during this process? How did the car handle before the new fluid change?

 

[Mikeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeal]

Following this one, I'd love to know what the tuning pros here do to all 3 diffs when set up for asphalt. I was about to go with infraction fluids, shocks: 2000cst, f/r diffs: 10,000cst, center diff: 100,000cst and see what it does.

 

[tybreezy]

Any shims used for front diff?

No sir , didn't add anything but the fluid.

Who put the front end assembly back together..you or hobby shop? Were any new parts added or exchanged out during this process? How did the car handle before the new fluid change?

I did some (arms and steering assembly) and the shop pretty much finished it for me as far as the diff fluid change and upper and lower mounts. It handled pretty good under power going straight for the most part before the change. I did some research and saw something about adjusting the toe. And yes a few new parts but nothing I think would cause such a change. I'm thinking it's an adjustment thing.

 

[httuner]

You change the characteristics of the center diff to nearly a lock diff; but yet left the front and rear out of proportions; To balance things out you'd need to bump the front diff fluid to about 200k and the rear to a 100k; But with this setup you'd have horrible cornering ability if that matters to you.

If I was street bashing; I would've ran the center diff to about 300k; front set at 60k and the rear at 20k. I find this balances the Typhon really well being a short wheel base street car. Allows the front to pull you straight and out of turns yet gives the rear enough slip to allow it to turn properly.

You're next step to correct the bad handling is your alignment settings; The Typhon comes setup for off-road and so it handles poorly on street surfaces.
The Typhon has too much toe out in the front wheels; while this does serve good off-road (dirt ect) It's horrible on-road; the design of the pillow balls creates a bad contact patch with the road when cornering (unlike C- blocks which has perfect contact patch turning left or right) A 1 degree toe out setting will help; compare to the almost 3 degree factory settings.
Set your camber also; I like having 0 camber rear; the short wheel base has a tendency to kick the ass end around easily so any negative camber in the rear reduces traction. I find sticking to 0 in the rear helps;

I set the front camber to 1-1.5 degree negative to help with cornering; usually an extra 6mm ID washer between the upper pillow ball and the control arm helps.

 

[tybreezy]

You change the characteristics of the center diff to nearly a lock diff; but yet left the front and rear out of proportions; To balance things out you'd need to bump the front diff fluid to about 200k and the rear to a 100k; But with this setup you'd have horrible cornering ability if that matters to you.

If I was street bashing; I would've ran the center diff to about 300k; front set at 60k and the rear at 20k. I find this balances the Typhon really well being a short wheel base street car. Allows the front to pull you straight and out of turns yet gives the rear enough slip to allow it to turn properly.

You're next step to correct the bad handling is your alignment settings; The Typhon comes setup for off-road and so it handles poorly on street surfaces.
The Typhon has too much toe out in the front wheels; while this does serve good off-road (dirt ect) It's horrible on-road; the design of the pillow balls creates a bad contact patch with the road when cornering (unlike C- blocks which has perfect contact patch turning left or right) A 1 degree toe out setting will help; compare to the almost 3 degree factory settings.
Set your camber also; I like having 0 camber rear; the short wheel base has a tendency to kick the ass end around easily so any negative camber in the rear reduces traction. I find sticking to 0 in the rear helps;

I set the front camber to 1-1.5 degree negative to help with cornering; usually an extra 6mm ID washer between the upper pillow ball and the control arm helps.

You are greatly appreciated sir!! Like I said I'm new to this but it makes a lot of sense, so I will be doing a lot of tinkering around to get it just right! I appreciate it man.

 

[parcou]

So I recently had my front assembly put back together and had the center diff fluid changed to 1million (recommended by LHS based on my street setup) and now under power it seems to be a handful to keep straight. What could be some possible solutions to this? I'm new to this kind of thing! The front and rear diff fluid was left alone as recommended.

To give another take, but I think you have your set direction.

TLR I messages a lot of the popular YT'ers and watched how they bashed it in dirt, track, etc, and what the average or close range I got from them on the diffs were: 20/20/10k

TLR diffs are great and find this fluid is great for bashing. The power is great 2050kv motor Max6 ESC 21T pinion, and handling power on straight is dead on.

Keep up posted on your new changes

 

[tybreezy]

To give another take, but I think you have your set direction.

TLR I messages a lot of the popular YT'ers and watched how they bashed it in dirt, track, etc, and what the average or close range I got from them on the diffs were: 20/20/10k

TLR diffs are great and find this fluid is great for bashing. The power is great 2050kv motor Max6 ESC 21T pinion, and handling power on straight is dead on.

Keep up posted on your new changes

Ok gotcha, I did notice a lot of racers had lower weights in their diffs. I actually have a 21 tooth in right now! It really moves man! I appreciate you!

 

[Overkill]

Check the Ackerman plate. Stock position for the tie rods is all the way forward. For the hell of it one day at the track I went all the way back and it was tank slapper twitchy every straight. 2nd or 3rd hole help with turn in depending on how you want it to handle