Granite Uodated: Cogging at mid throttle/2800kv swap

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blackgoat04

blackgoat04

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
started happening today. Was nosing up to a curb and punching to to double back flips and it started doing it. Now it's not horrible when first rolling but if I ease into the throttle and try to punch it, the power seems to cut out for a split second and then it takes off.
(edit)
played a while trying to see if it would go away...it didn't and the motor felt hotter than normal. it's never been this hit, even after a full pqck
Any ideas as to why?
 
blackgoat04 said:
started happening today. Was nosing up to a curb and punching to to double back flips and it started doing it. Now it's not horrible when first rolling but if I ease into the throttle and try to punch it, the power seems to cut out for a split second and then it takes off.
(edit)
played a while trying to see if it would go away...it didn't and the motor felt hotter than normal. it's never been this hit, even after a full pqck
Any ideas as to why?
Click to expand...

Yes. The BLX100 is trash :p It really cogs way too much for my liking. The one in my Granite just stopped working and the one in my BRCC cogged badly. Did you see my video?

 
damn.......I guess I'll video it and send horizon an email tomorrow. I'll go buy a better one, but it's good to have a back up.
Do you know what electronic parts in ESC actually are the issue that causes it. poop I'll replace a capacitor or something if need be, then I'll have a third backup lol
 
blackgoat04 said:
damn.......I guess I'll video it and send horizon an email tomorrow. I'll go buy a better one, but it's good to have a back up.
Do you know what electronic parts in ESC actually are the issue that causes it. poop I'll replace a capacitor or something if need be, then I'll have a third backup lol
Click to expand...

I really don't. I warrantied the one that died in my Granite and when I get the new one I will throw it in a drawer for a rainy day project. It will never go back into my Granite though.
 
blackgoat04 said:
damn.......I guess I'll video it and send horizon an email tomorrow. I'll go buy a better one, but it's good to have a back up.
Do you know what electronic parts in ESC actually are the issue that causes it. poop I'll replace a capacitor or something if need be, then I'll have a third backup lol
Click to expand...

Tell Horizon that it stopped working and it has red blinking lights. They should just backorder a new one for you. If you want a great replacement, get the HW Max10 SCT. It's a direct fit and is a zillion times better.
 
Go Max10 SCT when you make the switch. Also, did the drivetrain sound any different after this started happening? I ask because I was running mine this weekend and noticed after like 40 cart wheels at full speed I started to hear a click and notice a “very slight” cog on take off with a higher pitch wine. After a full pack my motor temp was 180F and ESC never broke half that which I thought was strange since I was running on an artificial soccer field in ambient temp of low 30’s.

Anyway, took my transmission housing apart and found my pinion and spur were binding and I am assuming was the cause for the motor temp. Haven’t had the chance to run it again to verify though. I go into it in more detail in my build thread if you’re interested.

Not saying this is the cause of your problem, it most likely is just a faulty BLX100 but it’s still something investigate...especially since it’s so easy to do.
 
Mongoose said:
Go Max10 SCT when you make the switch. Also, did the drivetrain sound any different after this started happening? I ask because I was running mine this weekend and noticed after like 40 cart wheels at full speed I started to hear a click and notice a “very slight” cog on take off with a higher pitch wine. After a full pack my motor temp was 180F and ESC never broke half that which I thought was strange since I was running on an artificial soccer field in ambient temp of low 30’s.

Anyway, took my transmission housing apart and found my pinion and spur were binding and I am assuming was the cause for the motor temp. Haven’t had the chance to run it again to verify though. I go into it in more detail in my build thread if you’re interested.

Not saying this is the cause of your problem, it most likely is just a faulty BLX100 but it’s still something investigate...especially since it’s so easy to do.
Click to expand...

Whenever I hear clicking it is usually a chipped tooth on the input gear. You might want to check them and the diffs just to be sure.
 
blackgoat04 said:
damn.......I guess I'll video it and send horizon an email tomorrow. I'll go buy a better one, but it's good to have a back up.
Do you know what electronic parts in ESC actually are the issue that causes it. poop I'll replace a capacitor or something if need be, then I'll have a third backup lol
Click to expand...
I was told MOSFETs are to blame in situations like this. I had a prob with an 80a esc rebranded Hobbywing that came stock in my TRMT10E.
Well beyond my comprehension and education so I just made a warranty claim and got a new ESC without any trouble at all. Redcat also has exemplary customer service.
If you understand this stuff, you may be able to make heads or tails.
Here's an article specifically speaking to RC ESC.
 
bicketybam said:
Whenever I hear clicking it is usually a chipped tooth on the input gear. You might want to check them and the diffs just to be sure.
Click to expand...


I didn’t remove them and check them but I did rule them out by rolling the truck back and forth with the motor and driveshaft out and it was smooth as butter.
 
Mongoose said:
I didn’t remove them and check them but I did rule them out by rolling the truck back and forth with the motor and driveshaft out and it was smooth as butter.
Click to expand...

You have to run it under hard acceleration to really test it. Hard braking will do it too. That's when it will click. I used to chip teeth all the time on the Mega diffs/input gears,especially when I was running the 1/8 scale Castle motor that is now in my Rock Rey. It would start out as an intermittent click when acclerating or braking hard at speed. It would progressively get worse and worse to the piont where it would drive me nuts. Most of the time it was rounded teeth on the input gear. Since I went to the BLX diffs I have only damaged two. One was in my Granite running the big motor and the other was just yesterday in my Senton. That went from clicking to non-functional pretty quickly!
 
bicketybam said:
Tell Horizon that it stopped working and it has red blinking lights. They should just backorder a new one for you. If you want a great replacement, get the HW Max10 SCT. It's a direct fit and is a zillion times better.
Click to expand...
how much is it
 
Mongoose said:
Go Max10 SCT when you make the switch. Also, did the drivetrain sound any different after this started happening? I ask because I was running mine this weekend and noticed after like 40 cart wheels at full speed I started to hear a click and notice a “very slight” cog on take off with a higher pitch wine. After a full pack my motor temp was 180F and ESC never broke half that which I thought was strange since I was running on an artificial soccer field in ambient temp of low 30’s.

Anyway, took my transmission housing apart and found my pinion and spur were binding and I am assuming was the cause for the motor temp. Haven’t had the chance to run it again to verify though. I go into it in more detail in my build thread if you’re interested.

Not saying this is the cause of your problem, it most likely is just a faulty BLX100 but it’s still something investigate...especially since it’s so easy to do.
Click to expand...
makes sense. also would explain my higher then normal motor temps
 
bicketybam said:
You have to run it under hard acceleration to really test it. Hard braking will do it too. That's when it will click. I used to chip teeth all the time on the Mega diffs/input gears,especially when I was running the 1/8 scale Castle motor that is now in my Rock Rey. It would start out as an intermittent click when acclerating or braking hard at speed. It would progressively get worse and worse to the piont where it would drive me nuts. Most of the time it was rounded teeth on the input gear. Since I went to the BLX diffs I have only damaged two. One was in my Granite running the big motor and the other was just yesterday in my Senton. That went from clicking to non-functional pretty quickly!
Click to expand...

That makes sense. Hopefully I can get a run in tomorrow to check it out.
 
forgot to mention my braking was horrible today. there's is a very low cut grass but very steep hill behind my work that's about 20 ft tall. usually when climbing it if I lose control I can hit the brakes, stop and then move forward again. but today my brakes were not working on the hill, but we're fine on flat ground.
 
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