Vorteks Vorteks Boost unboxing and build thread 😍

[Mit Snori]

My cars a standard 3s BLX vorteks. Stock motor and ESC. I’m not considering buying that motor I’m just using it as an example to help me understand how it works. Thanks again.

 

[Kla912000]

A longer motor can and/or a bigger diameter motor can will have more torque but also will be a lower KV rating. The added torque is to allow you to run bigger gearing for speed but still not heat up as much because of the lower KV rating. As far as the KV rating goes: Battery Voltage times KV = RPM(Volts x KV=RPM). Stock 3200kv motor running on 3s goes like this: 12.6x3200=40320RPM. 2750kv motor: 12.6x2750=34650RPM. Lower Max RPM means less heat, but also less top speed which means you have to gear up to get your top speed back while still having a lot of torque to turn the bigger gearing and get the heavy rig started out faster.

Hope this answers your question and is not too confusing.

Edited.....

 

[ChriswithaC]

A longer motor can and/or a bigger diameter motor can will have more torque but also will be a lower KV rating. The added torque is to allow you to run bigger gearing for speed but still not heat up as much because of the lower KV rating. As far as the KV rating goes: Battery Voltage times KV = RPM(Volts x KV=RPM). Stock 3200kv motor running on 3s goes like this: 14.6x3200=46720RPM. 2750kv motor: 14.6x2750=40150RPM. Lower Max RPM means less heat, but also less top speed which means you have to gear up to get your top speed back while still having a lot of torque to turn the bigger gearing and get the heavy rig started out faster.

Hope this answers your question and is not too confusing.

Am I right in saying the larger the can , the more amps the ESC will need to pull and the bigger the battery you'll need buddy . ?
I'm asking as this is new to me also but I try to do my research as much as possible.
When I was racing years ago brushless motors when literally just about to hit the market and was a unknown . Then I quit , so last motor is ran was a modified 8 turn brushed reedy .

 

[Kla912000]

Am I right in saying the larger the can , the more amps the ESC will need to pull and the bigger the battery you'll need buddy . ?
I'm asking as this is new to me also but I try to do my research as much as possible.
When I was racing years ago brushless motors when literally just about to hit the market and was a unknown . Then I quit , so last motor is ran was a modified 8 turn brushed reedy .

Yes, naturally the larger motor can will pull more amps. But the stock BLX 100 ESC can handle a 3670 size motor without a problem

 

[ChriswithaC]

Yes, naturally the larger motor can will pull more amps. But the stock BLX 100 ESC can handle a 3670 size motor without a problem

Awesome thanks for letting me know

 

[Mit Snori]

A longer motor can and/or a bigger diameter motor can will have more torque but also will be a lower KV rating. The added torque is to allow you to run bigger gearing for speed but still not heat up as much because of the lower KV rating. As far as the KV rating goes: Battery Voltage times KV = RPM(Volts x KV=RPM). Stock 3200kv motor running on 3s goes like this: 14.6x3200=46720RPM. 2750kv motor: 14.6x2750=40150RPM. Lower Max RPM means less heat, but also less top speed which means you have to gear up to get your top speed back while still having a lot of torque to turn the bigger gearing and get the heavy rig started out faster.

Hope this answers your question and is not too confusing.

Hi Kla - very concise Thankyou! For clarity where does the 14.6 figure come from? I thought the voltage on a 3S battery was 11.1v - No doubt you will shortly educate me! (Thanks for helping - appreciate your knowledge).

 

[Kla912000]

Hi Kla - very concise Thankyou! For clarity where does the 14.6 figure come from? I thought the voltage on a 3S battery was 11.1v - No doubt you will shortly educate me! (Thanks for helping - appreciate your knowledge).

Oops! I meant 12 6 volts not 14 6. Each cell fully charged is 4.2v per cell. For a 3s battery, 4.2v x 3s = 12.6v, so a fully charged 3s lipo is 12 6 volts. Check your battery charger voltage the next time you charge your 3s batteries. Fully charged should read 12.6v.

Went back and edited my prior post.

 

[ChriswithaC]

So this came today for the Frankenstein Vorteks Boost.
Just given it a go and much much bette than the crappy Surpass 3800kv I put in originally when I converted it .
Didn't even realise it was made by hobbywing either when purchasing.

 

[ChriswithaC]

Final peice of the puzzle came today finally small but important my Surpass rocket fan . And Jesus these move some air for sure .
Quite impressed.
Now I should be good for temps with the new moto

 

[Velodromed]

Final peice of the puzzle came today finally small but important my Surpass rocket fan . And Jesus these move some air for sure .
Quite impressed.
Now I should be good for temps with the new motoView attachment 255532View attachment 255533View attachment 255534

Hey man, you have a ribbed motor, and a heat sink won’t make solid contact with the motor so it won’t work as well as a smooth motor. Ribbed motors have the heat sink built in, thus the ribs. Best to use a fan mount and no heat sink. One like this…

 

[ChriswithaC]

Hey man, you have a ribbed motor, and a heat sink won’t make solid contact with the motor so it won’t work as well as a smooth motor. Ribbed motors have the heat sink built in, thus the ribs. Best to use a fan mount and no heat sink. One like this…

View attachment 255535

Hey buddy thanks for the heads up I'll get one ordered but having said that I do use Geelid Extreme Thermal pads also when fitting heat sinks anyways to improve thermal conductivity.
I've tried it today and it's definitely pulling the heat away from the motor . And that fan is surprb 28000 rpm very loud and shifts loads of air for its size to be fair .

 

[Mit Snori]

Getting there Chris…. Just waiting on a 14ml hex for 4th wheel. Fitted the wing as the body mounted one has slowly torn off from bad landings etc etc….

With the lid.

 

[Velodromed]

Getting there Chris…. Just waiting on a 14ml hex for 4th wheel. Fitted the wing as the body mounted one has slowly torn off from bad landings etc etc….

View attachment 256207

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With the lid.

When that one breaks get this one as it’s much sturdier. Smaller but stronger. It also has places to install m4 screws on top of it so it doesn’t get thrashed while sliding on the lid. The picture doesn’t show them but they are there. Just make sure to get the exact part number. I have one on my parts bin typhon and it’s proven to be solid.

 

[ChriswithaC]

When that one breaks get this one as it’s much sturdier. Smaller but stronger. It also has places to install m4 screws on top of it so it doesn’t get thrashed while sliding on the lid. The picture doesn’t show them but they are there. Just make sure to get the exact part number. I have one on my parts bin typhon and it’s proven to be solid.

View attachment 256214

View attachment 256215

Is that the outlast wing buddy ?

Getting there Chris…. Just waiting on a 14ml hex for 4th wheel. Fitted the wing as the body mounted one has slowly torn off from bad landings etc etc….

View attachment 256207

View attachment 256208
With the lid.

Awesome buddy what's your thoughts on the wheels and tyres , I love mine .

 

[Velodromed]

Is that the outlast wing buddy ?

Specifically the 4s outcast wing.

 

[ChriswithaC]

Well forgot to post yesterday some bad news guys 4 minutes in to a 3s pack I hear a clicking noise .... Decided to stop right there as I knew it didn't sound like something good was happening.
Came straight home and stripped it down at first thought it might have been the spur and pinion.
Nope that's all good
Stripped the diff case housing and wallah stripped input . But crown seems ok . So my question is am I ok to just order a input and no

t the crown gear and should I upgrade to a metal equivalent on both ????
Ideally I need the cheaper option right now but wondering is this a common occurrence.

Here's the pics and thanks in advance
ChriswithaC
So crown gear is spot on but input is toast so ordered a new HD input .

 

[Velodromed]

Well forgot to post yesterday some bad news guys 4 minutes in to a 3s pack I hear a clicking noise .... Decided to stop right there as I knew it didn't sound like something good was happening.
Came straight home and stripped it down at first thought it might have been the spur and pinion.
Nope that's all good
Stripped the diff case housing and wallah stripped input . But crown seems ok . So my question is am I ok to just order a input and noView attachment 256232View attachment 256233t the crown gear and should I upgrade to a metal equivalent on both ????
Ideally I need the cheaper option right now but wondering is this a common occurrence.

Here's the pics and thanks in advance
ChriswithaC
So crown gear is spot on but input is toast so ordered a new HD input .

Is there a shim on your diff on the non ring gear side? I do not like any play at the composite ring gear and differential as this is what happens. If there is a shim on the opposite side from the ring, remove it and then check the mesh. It may even need a shim on the ring side to tighten it up. As you run in the car you’ll need to check it every so often.

Another thing that can help cause this is landing on power after jumps and transitioning between traction surfaces on high throttle. Also, look closely at your ring gear. See how there is compressed grease ‘paste’ (which happens when fine dust gets in and mixes with the grease) in between the teeth? That can prevent the input gear teeth from fully seating. It’s a good idea to service the differential often, especially the rear one which gets the most stress. A lot of people say to not mix-and-match a new input gear with an old diff. But I’ve never had any troubles with it as long as the differential is still in really good shape. Make sure to get all that compressed grease out of there.

 

[Mit Snori]

When that one breaks get this one as it’s much sturdier. Smaller but stronger. It also has places to install m4 screws on top of it so it doesn’t get thrashed while sliding on the lid. The picture doesn’t show them but they are there. Just make sure to get the exact part number. I have one on my parts bin typhon and it’s proven to be solid.

View attachment 256214

View attachment 256215

Yeah I thought it looked big when it arrived but with these ridiculously big Tomahawks tyres it looks ok scale wise! Hear what your saying about flimsy. It does feel a little loose. - not had chance to drive yet as only got 3 functional wheels. Certainly aren’t belted but seem grippy and chunky in the hand. Quality seems good.

 

[ChriswithaC]

Is there a shim on your diff on the non ring gear side? I do not like any play at the composite ring gear and differential as this is what happens. If there is a shim on the opposite side from the ring, remove it and then check the mesh. It may even need a shim on the ring side to tighten it up. As you run in the car you’ll need to check it every so often.

Another thing that can help cause this is landing on power after jumps and transitioning between traction surfaces on high throttle. Also, look closely at your spare gear. See how there is compressed grease ‘paste’ (which happens when fine dust gets in and mixes with the grease) in between the teeth? That can prevent the input gear teeth from fully seating. It’s a good idea to service the differential often, especially the rear one which gets the most stress. A lot of people say to not mix-and-match a new input gear with an old diff. But I’ve never had any troubles with it as long as the differential is still in really good shape. Make sure to get all that compressed grease out of there.

Thanks buddy I'll check it out this evening as the input gear should be here tomorrow.

 

[ChriswithaC]

Thanks for all the advice to everyone that commented on the input gear that decided to itself .
Parts came today and the Vorteks is back under it's own power again , also added some shims to the diff case and recalibrated the ESC and set my punch level up .
The bearing went on great I used a 11mm socket and a light tap from my tapping hammer and no issues at all .
Now let's see how long this lasts hey .