Raider VXL upgraded Raider needing some help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

You can't really test it like this the wheel with the least resistance will get all the power especially if the the diff is loose already. If you had closer to a locked diff both sides should spin equally. Now the diff is unloading on the wheel with no resistance. You can tear into the gearbox but what I would try first is put the wheel back on tighten the slipper all the way and see what happens. With the VXL and your gearing you should start to wheelie when on the ground with throttle if you do then back off on the slipper. Slipper adjustments can differ from model to model or brand to brand.
 
You can't really test it like this the wheel with the least resistance will get all the power especially if the the diff is loose already. If you had closer to a locked diff both sides should spin equally. Now the diff is unloading on the wheel with no resistance. You can tear into the gearbox but what I would try first is put the wheel back on tighten the slipper all the way and see what happens. With the VXL and your gearing you should start to wheelie when on the ground with throttle if you do then back off on the slipper. Slipper adjustments can differ from model to model or brand to brand.
I kind of understand your assessment, but his left rear tire is not spinning at all. On full throttle, which is what it sounds like he's giving, that left wheel would at least jerk forward. There is a very large disconnect in the gearbox between the left and right axle. I would have said lack of fluid first, but there is literally no movement in that left axle. Could be as simple as a broken pin or as complicated as spent gears.
 
I kind of understand your assessment, but his left rear tire is not spinning at all. On full throttle, which is what it sounds like he's giving, that left wheel would at least jerk forward. There is a very large disconnect in the gearbox between the left and right axle. I would have said lack of fluid first, but there is literally no movement in that left axle. Could be as simple as a broken pin or as complicated as spent gears.

He could remove the other tire and test it with both off.
 
I have it tightened down all the way now I'm at work I will put the tires back on it when I get off and see how it goes
 
I have it tightened down all the way now I'm at work I will put the tires back on it when I get off and see how it goes
Start easy with this. A fully tightened slipper means a direct input into the gear box. The slipper's design is to reduce the stress on the internals of the differential. Test with caution and don't slam on the throttle.
 
I got about 9 turns before I couldn't tighten the slipper gear anymore
 
I kind of understand your assessment, but his left rear tire is not spinning at all. On full throttle, which is what it sounds like he's giving, that left wheel would at least jerk forward. There is a very large disconnect in the gearbox between the left and right axle. I would have said lack of fluid first, but there is literally no movement in that left axle. Could be as simple as a broken pin or as complicated as spent gears.

In the end still not good to troubleshoot it that way in the video could just make a internal problem in the diff worse the diff continuing to unload like that on one side.
 
In the end still not good to troubleshoot it that way in the video could just make a internal problem in the diff worse the diff continuing to unload like that on one side.
Agreed. We've been mentioning that a tear down of the gear box is necessary, but the owner has some experience, and will choose his own path.
 
From the video, where the right side is the only side spinning. Can you spin the left side driveshaft by hand? Does it spend freely, or is there more resistance than with the right side?

Also, do the same test with the wheels on, car on the ground, nose to a wall so it cannot move. Does one driveshaft spin without spinning the tire? This would indicate a stripped wheel hex or missing hex pin.
 
I'm at work now I'll let you know when I get home but I did spin the tires while they were on and the left side did not spin as much as the right side. I mean for as long as the right did with the same force or as fast
 
So with the tires on neither dog bones turn while throttled just spinning motor gears still
 
So with the tires on neither dog bones turn while throttled just spinning motor gears still
Sorry, but it sounds like the differential is toast. Hopefully just something as simple as a broken pin, like @bicketybam mentioned. Make sure you print out a copy of the exploded view of the gear box, and keep it close by while you take it apart. This way you can see what looks out of whack, and only replace what it needs.
 
So with the tires on neither dog bones turn while throttled just spinning motor gears still
I’m new to rc too..

I built a whole new metal diff and gearbox for my raider mega just last week... installed it on the weekend just gone.. it’s easy but bloody time consuming (especially when you have your 5 year old and 2.5 year old sons wanting to “help out”!).. I watched Thomas’s video on it (it’s a sticky in the drivetrain threads) and just followed the exploded view in the manual. Give it a go because it sounds as if your diff is shot.. you’ll be suprised how easy it is.. it’s just annoying because of the time it takes and all the screw you need to deal with!

Although.. I must say the comments like the one below about the slipper spring and how tight it should be from WoodiE and others has me a little worried!..

I tighten down the slipper clutch all the way then back off a quarter to half a turn. In many cases that should be good to go.

The manual I got with my mega raider says tighten it all the way then back it of 3 entire turns... yet everyone here seems to be saying backing it off just half a turn is sufficient?...

Can you experienced guys confirm this for clarity... am I turning the slipper spring back off too far in going by the recommendation of 3 whole turns back that it shows in the manual?...
 
I’m new to rc too..

I built a whole new metal diff and gearbox for my raider mega just last week... installed it on the weekend just gone.. it’s easy but bloody time consuming (especially when you have your 5 year old and 2.5 year old sons wanting to “help out”!).. I watched Thomas’s video on it (it’s a sticky in the drivetrain threads) and just followed the exploded view in the manual. Give it a go because it sounds as if your diff is shot.. you’ll be suprised how easy it is.. it’s just annoying because of the time it takes and all the screw you need to deal with!

Although.. I must say the comments like the one below about the slipper spring and how tight it should be from WoodiE and others has me a little worried!..



The manual I got with my mega raider says tighten it all the way then back it of 3 entire turns... yet everyone here seems to be saying backing it off just half a turn is sufficient?...

Can you experienced guys confirm this for clarity... am I turning the slipper spring back off too far in going by the recommendation of 3 whole turns back that it shows in the manual?...
I don't know anyone who has used manufacturers recommendations on slipper clutch tension and loved it, but anytime you deviate from that you take the reliability of you drive train into your own hands. No matter what, some of these parts are going to fail over time, it's just a matter of how much fun you want to have between now and then. If it was me, I'd back out about 1.5-2 turns and try it. If you can't tell the difference between manufacturers and woodies recommendations, flip a coin. You might find you like it, and maybe need it even tighter. Trust me, its worth experimenting.
 
I’m new to rc too..

I built a whole new metal diff and gearbox for my raider mega just last week... installed it on the weekend just gone.. it’s easy but bloody time consuming (especially when you have your 5 year old and 2.5 year old sons wanting to “help out”!).. I watched Thomas’s video on it (it’s a sticky in the drivetrain threads) and just followed the exploded view in the manual. Give it a go because it sounds as if your diff is shot.. you’ll be suprised how easy it is.. it’s just annoying because of the time it takes and all the screw you need to deal with!

Although.. I must say the comments like the one below about the slipper spring and how tight it should be from WoodiE and others has me a little worried!..



The manual I got with my mega raider says tighten it all the way then back it of 3 entire turns... yet everyone here seems to be saying backing it off just half a turn is sufficient?...

Can you experienced guys confirm this for clarity... am I turning the slipper spring back off too far in going by the recommendation of 3 whole turns back that it shows in the manual?...
Like @Jeremy in WI said, it's a matter of getting what you want out of the rig. The guy that @Frog417 bought it from, probably ran it fully tightened, and hence, the resulting damaged differential. Definitely start with manufacturers recommendations, and adjust to suit. Let us know how it works out when the job is done @Frog417 .?
 
Like @Jeremy in WI said, it's a matter of getting what you want out of the rig. The guy that @Frog417 bought it from, probably ran it fully tightened, and hence, the resulting damaged differential. Definitely start with manufacturers recommendations, and adjust to suit. Let us know how it works out when the job is done @Frog417 .?
Like matt I have 3 little helpers as well. So it sounds like a weekend job.I will post pics and update as it is done thanks guys for all the help
 
I wouldn't go that far as to say to never buy used. There are good deals to be had in the used market. Not everything is trash.

Now that said I don't buy used very much as I'm a very particular person and want all of my RC's in top notch condition. I'm more picky I suppose.



I tighten down the slipper clutch all the way then back off a quarter to half a turn. In many cases that should be good to go.
+1, just want to make it clear that I didn’t call used rc’s trash. There’s some good finds on eBay. Actually I’ve seen some great finds.

I don't know about the old Arrma 1/10 scale trucks but the diffs in the 3s BLX lineup are rock solid, plastic and all. You can check @RC DUDE81 YouTube for his latest video running 4s in his Granite.
I know. They’re very solid. I didn’t say they weren’t. I said they weren’t bulletproof. No diffs are.
 
Like matt I have 3 little helpers as well. So it sounds like a weekend job.I will post pics and update as it is done thanks guys for all the help
Definately a weekend job...

Ive got a rostered day off tomorrow and ive got a new brushless ESC and motor to install on my raider.. its pretty much plug and play but i know its gonna take a while not because it takes long to do the esc and motor but because of all the screws and parts you have to remove to get to the esc first!..o
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top