Mojave What’s the best RC desert truck?

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6s will give more drive time as your Amps draw is not as high.
6S amp draw is higher than 8S amp draw, assuming the same motor geared for the same speed. Ohm’s law and all that.

I’ve considered moving to 8S and gearing down for the improved efficiency and therefore better run time.
 
6S amp draw is higher than 8S amp draw, assuming the same motor geared for the same speed. Ohm’s law and all that.

I’ve considered moving to 8S and gearing down for the improved efficiency and therefore better run time.

I was assuming same gearing 6s and 8s.

Otherwise 6s has to draw more AMPs if using a different pinion to reach 8s speed. Stock ESC probably won't be able to cater for those Amps if at gearing for 8s speed. Going 8s and gearing down will help with runtime as more mAH are there to use, assuming the same size battery. 6s x 5000mAh = 30.000 , 8sx5000mAh = 40.000. i.e about 33% more run time at same top speed. Even more when gearing further down.
 
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Need to print a brace like that or have something similar. Got mine on thingiverse and used TPU. Others use aluminium.
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How does this brace help? Do you know if the 1.0 needs the same brace?
 
I’d more than likely run 8s because I have to buy batteries anyway and it draws less amps. I can 3D print braces so that’s not an issue to me but do you know where I could find the brace design then print it myself? I see the super rock Rey is a little wider and a little shorter, will that help with rolling over as much? Anyone every thought of making a thicker sway bar or using aluminum sway bars to reduce roll over? I’ve seen people on YT tune the shocks and it seems to help a lot with rolling. Any thoughts?
 
Think I used this one:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5187044

If you don't have the brace the whole back bends too much when you bash. It bends so far it touches the ground at times - like when you jump a bit further. Not too good for the rear cage inside. Bends more and more over time as the cage material gets used to it. Sounds stupid, kind of is. I first skipped this and learned better. PLA braces broke right away. TPU works fine.

To reduce rolling:
  • Harder springs in front. I used these: https://schwaben-tec.de/index.php?cPath=10
  • Thicker oil in rear diff. I have 500K, would go down to 300k next time. Too much fishtailing with the 500k oil on gravel and loose sand. The thicker oil helps with "locking" the rear wheels together and the back slides better in corners.
  • Move bottom of shocks one hole back towards the tire. Leave top where it is.
  • Turn on the lights when driving. Adds an electrical induction effect to the whole chassis and the SBR rolls over less. (OK, just kidding)
Those 3 first ones do make a noticable difference. Have 300k in front and 500k center - 300k rear is next and will see what that does to handling.
 
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Think I used this one:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5187044

If you don't have the brace the whole back bends too much when you bash. It bends so far it touches the ground at times - like when you jump a bit further. Not too good for the rear cage inside. Bends more and more over time as the cage material gets used to it. Sounds stupid, kind of is. I first skipped this and learned better. PLA braces broke right away. TPU works fine.

To reduce rolling:
  • Harder springs in front. I used these: https://schwaben-tec.de/index.php?cPath=10
  • Thicker oil in rear diff. I have 500K, would go down to 300k next time. Too much fishtailing with the 500k oil on gravel and loose sand. The thicker oil helps with "locking" the rear wheels together and the back slides better in corners.
  • Move bottom of shocks one hole back towards the tire. Leave top where it is.
  • Turn on the lights when driving. Adds an electrical induction effect to the whole chassis and the SBR rolls over less. (OK, just kidding)
Those 3 first ones do make a noticable difference. Have 300k in front and 500k center - 300k rear is next and will see what that does to handling.
This is awesome glad more people tired to find solutions versus just complain that it rolls over all the time. Thank you!! I might try and find one used or buy it new I’ve had bad luck buying used so I’m trying to stay away from it and I’d on be saving $200 buying used, that’s a lot but if everything is all worn out then it could get up there in price just to make it good again. What batteries do you run in your sbr?
 
German lipo brand - SLS - 4s 7000mAH. But that size is not manufactured anymore.
 
8-9 minutes, depending on driving style. Go as high as possible with the mAh.
 
Zeee batteries are just fine for bashing. Mine have treated me well.
Cool deal just gotta get some more cash and I’ll scoop an sbr up this this summer with those batteries. Can’t wait.
 
This is where the Arrma stuff is just cool. Here with Kraton arms on a Mojave chassis.

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Typhon towers on Mojave chassis with Kraton hubs for width, Buggy tires. Got the interior with drivers now, had to insert it for stability at speed.


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20230129_164730.jpg



I'm just saying ... 😁
 
This is where the Arrma stuff is just cool. Here with Kraton arms on a Mojave chassis.

View attachment 301593

View attachment 301594
View attachment 301595

View attachment 301596



Typhon towers on Mojave chassis with Kraton hubs for width, Buggy tires. Got the interior with drivers now, had to insert it for stability at speed.


View attachment 301597

View attachment 301598


I'm just saying ... 😁
I get that but I’ve had many 6s vehicles but I’m looking to change it up, if you know what I mean.
 
I also like the size of the sbr and how it handles terrain due to size and weight from what I’ve read/watched.
 
This is where the Arrma stuff is just cool. Here with Kraton arms on a Mojave chassis.

View attachment 301593

View attachment 301594
View attachment 301595

View attachment 301596



Typhon towers on Mojave chassis with Kraton hubs for width, Buggy tires. Got the interior with drivers now, had to insert it for stability at speed.


View attachment 301597

View attachment 301598


I'm just saying ... 😁
Nice! I swapped bits between my MEXB and KEXB too. I left the center driveline components, swapped arms, cvd/dogbones, shocks/towers..
I love the looks of the Mojo body, but not the weight.. it was getting pretty beat anyway. I ditched the Mojo body for a Redcat Shredder body. Fit isn't great, about 2 inches too long, but it'll do.
The winner of the mashup between the 2 so far for me is the Mojo armed Kraton. It's killer on my track, which is hard pack clay. Even with 6s Fortress tires, it $hits and gits!!😎
I originally had left the Mojo bumpers on the XL.. too heavy to be sporty.. either put FT shock springs on or put her on a diet.. I ditched the bumpers for "Arrma Super basher's"..
 
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Im so tempted to get it but don’t have the money right now hoping some of my stuff will sell but I’ve still got 16 days so I’ll hope for the best.
 
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