Mojave What’s the best RC desert truck?

[Avyn Nix]

Every review that I've ever seen of the UDR and SBR, the reviewers ALWAYS mention how much they roll over (especially the UDR). The rollover is a byproduct of the solid axle design. I don't know about you, but I'd hate to have to run 20 yards or so and flip it every time that thing rolls

I could agree but it won’t be a deal breaker for me because I’m a huge trophy truck fan and like I said I go down to the desert for weeks at a time and a lot of the straight line moto woops would be a blast to bomb through. The dbxle is cool but I’ve heard it’s really expensive to maintain.

 

[CrashBoom]

The dbxle is cool but I’ve heard it’s really expensive to maintain.

That's kind of a given for any truck in that size class. I haven't found it to be too far out of line with any of my other big trucks yet. It's kind of annoying that some parts are only sold in groups, like turnbuckles of which there are two different sizes. Need a short one? Too bad, gotta buy the entire set.

I will say, it is heavy so it is more prone to breakage if doing "things" outside of what it's designed for.

Very fun truck though, it's large and in charge.

 

[Mr9Mojave]

Every review that I've ever seen of the UDR and SBR, the reviewers ALWAYS mention how much they roll over (especially the UDR). The rollover is a byproduct of the solid axle design. I don't know about you, but I'd hate to have to run 20 yards or so and flip it every time that thing rolls

Yeah traxxas compromised performance and handling at the expense of realism.

I wouldn't touch a UDR with a 20ft barge pole.

The Mojave will make the UDR look like it was standing still.

IMO I would toss up between the Mojave and the Losi.

 

[Eskimojoe]

I have a SBR and maybe I had bad luck but its been a pita since day one. Since it is fully caged I decided to take the phrase "RTR" to the heart for this one... the RX was stuck on with the FCC sticker, the FCC sticker pulled away causing the RX to bounce around and the AVC to go crazy. The servo burned out shortly after. It's fresh on my mind since i just completed the servo install this afternoon and I'm on here looking for end point adjustment posts now.
I see Losi SBR 2.0's going for 6-$800.00 on Facebook marketplace and they usually come with two batteries. I see a lot of UDRs on the marketplace as well (usually with a laundry list of upgrades) which leads me to believe in the long run both of them are too much maintenance vs fun. I don't see Mojaves on the market place very much and Arrma's 6s line is solid. Id vote for a Mojave if your going to buy new

 

[Avyn Nix]

Yeah traxxas compromised performance and handling at the expense of realism.

I wouldn't touch a UDR with a 20ft barge pole.

The Mojave will make the UDR look like it was standing still.

IMO I would toss up between the Mojave and the Losi.

I’m leaning more toward the Losi at the moment. I’ve had Losi in the past and was very impressed with the quality of all the parts. The drive lines held up great and the halting was spot on. Went to a traxxas is handled like crap and had drive line issues. So I got a kraton exb a year ago and I’ve loved it but the Losi just still has it for me I replaced a bunch of stuff on my kraton just so I could feel good about selling it to somebody knowing it won’t have any problems for them. My Losi never costed much to maintain. Btw I had a Losi ten scte 1.0 on 3s with badland tires and it ripped, kinda wished I had never sold it. Maybe I go for the 1/10 Losi again all of the tenacity line looks very similar to my old Losi. But I do want to try a larger vehicle.

 

[RC-Dude]

Another problem is drive time. The DBXLE 2.0 wants to be raced. Lots of full speed, about 75km/h on pretty rough construction site terrain. Just fun. The suspension takes that ground like - just beautiful. Results in drivetime beeing about 5 minutes with 8s 7000mAh. Empty as in ESC shuts off. The DBXLE 2.0 sounds awful as the different body plates resonate like crazy. Makes sense to cover them with silicon and glass tape to reduce that. The DBXLE 2.0 jumps very nicely. Very controllable, just don't land on the roof too often.

Same stretch where you can race the DBXLE 2.0 you can literally go about half to max 2/3 of the speed with the SBR 2.0. If that rear axle hits a little bump simulaneously with both wheels the SBR 2.0 front flips. Slams the nose right into the ground or does a number of nose over rear flips. (Can also be seen on numerous full size Desert Racer videos). SBR driving is basically a lot of walking too. You can navigate the corners by just about stopping and turning. No Mojave like sliding, only on perfect gravel.

Unfortunately I sold the DBXLE 2.0 - the drive times were ridiculously low. Should have kept it I guess when comparing it to the SBR 2.0. You need hard case lipos if you want to strap lipos over each other to like use 2x two 7000mAh als the lipo will bump against the center tower. Not good for soft body lipos.

Both DBXLE and SBR are not fun to clean. You can't just take off the body and hose it down like an Arrma. The downsides in practical use and driving are just there and part of the design. The SBR with a normal suspension, lipo change from the top and easily removable body would sell like crazy. New car, you want to change lipo and have to turn the car on its roof. Then you realize the battery lid does not open without a lot of pulling and moving - working scratches into the roof. New lipos in, turn the car on it's wheels - scratches on the new body. After a few times the lever on the lid of the lipo compartment yanks off. You realize the screws are too short, and install cut-off zip ties as the threads are damaged from the pulling. Don't drive through puddles with the SBR 2.0 The water going through the wheel bearings in the rear goes right to the rear center diff. You realize that probably once the rear axle gets really hot because the bearings on the differentials have effectively become bushings. Your ESC or motor might get damaged before you realize. Just needs to be said. There are some design flaws that could easily be removed in a totally new SBR version. Now it's just too much money on headaches that come along with the car. You certainly need some kind of brace for the rear. I printed mine from TPU.

A Mojave 1/5 with the suspension like the 1/8 Mojave would be so much fun.

 

[Avyn Nix]

Another problem is drive time. The DBXLE 2.0 wants to be raced. Lots of full speed, about 75km/h on pretty rough construction site terrain. Just fun. The suspension takes that ground like - just beautiful. Results in drivetime beeing about 5 minutes with 8s 7000mAh. Empty as in ESC shuts off. The DBXLE 2.0 sounds awful as the different body plates resonate like crazy. Makes sense to cover them with silicon and glass tape to reduce that. The DBXLE 2.0 jumps very nicely. Very controllable, just don't land on the roof too often.

Same stretch where you can race the DBXLE 2.0 you can literally go about half to max 2/3 of the speed with the SBR 2.0. If that rear axle hits a little bump simulaneously with both wheels the SBR 2.0 front flips. Slams the nose right into the ground or does a number of nose over rear flips. (Can also be seen on numerous full size Desert Racer videos). SBR driving is basically a lot of walking too. You can navigate the corners by just about stopping and turning. No Mojave like sliding, only on perfect gravel.

Unfortunately I sold the DBXLE 2.0 - the drive times were ridiculously low. Should have kept it I guess when comparing it to the SBR 2.0. You need hard case lipos if you want to strap lipos over each other to like use 2x two 7000mAh als the lipo will bump against the center tower. Not good for soft body lipos.

Both DBXLE and SBR are not fun to clean. You can't just take off the body and hose it down like an Arrma. The downsides in practical use and driving are just there and part of the design. The SBR with a normal suspension, lipo change from the top and easily removable body would sell like crazy. New car, you want to change lipo and have to turn the car on its roof. Then you realize the battery lid does not open without a lot of pulling and moving - working scratches into the roof. New lipos in, turn the car on it's wheels - scratches on the new body. After a few times the lever on the lid of the lipo compartment yanks off. You realize the screws are too short, and install cut-off zip ties as the threads are damaged from the pulling. Don't drive through puddles with the SBR 2.0 The water going through the wheel bearings in the rear goes right to the rear center diff. You realize that probably once the rear axle gets really hot because the bearings on the differentials have effectively become bushings. Your ESC or motor might get damaged before you realize. Just needs to be said. There are some design flaws that could easily be removed in a totally new SBR version. Now it's just too much money on headaches that come along with the car. You certainly need some kind of brace for the rear. I printed mine from TPU.

A Mojave 1/5 with the suspension like the 1/8 Mojave would be so much fun.

What’s the drive time like in the sbr?

 

[RC-Dude]

What’s the drive time like in the sbr?

It's definitely more than the DBXLE 2.0. Main problem is to check the batteries while you are driving. You have to open the lid of the lipo compartment and that is a mission in itself. So I end up never doing it and just end the drive at about 8-10 minutes and that's when they are at about 3,7 Volt. Part of that time is walking to where it flipped over.

If you are into the scale thing you will like the SBR. Just know what to expect. If you don't have 4s lipos - you should have at least 2 sets of 2x4s so you have some drive time.

 

[dure16]

It's definitely more than the DBXLE 2.0. Main problem is to check the batteries while you are driving. You have to open the lid of the lipo compartment and that is a mission in itself. So I end up never doing it and just end the drive at about 8-10 minutes and that's when they are at about 3,7 Volt. Part of that time is walking to where it flipped over.

If you are into the scale thing you will like the SBR. Just know what to expect.

Why do you check the batteries instead of driving until it hits LVC?

 

[RC-Dude]

LVC is mostly too low already. End capacity must be minimum 20-30% if you want your lipos to last. At least when you are drawing the kind of Amps that these cars use. Sometimes LVC settings are simply not exact enough and trigger way too late.

 

[Avyn Nix]

Why do you check the batteries instead of driving until it hits LVC?

Seems like the lvc is set high to at 3.7 cut off voltage. I was wondering the same thing.

 

[RC-Dude]

The problem with 3,7 Volt is that when you go full power at half charge it may trigger that already. For example if you only have 5000mAh and not the highest C-ratings. So best is to find a "normal" time that fits to your driving style and check the lipo when you think you could go longer.

 

[dure16]

What’s the drive time like in the sbr?

I drive until LVC in my original SBR. ~3.3V per cell.

I assumed drivetime would be terrible with the big motor and only 6S voltage, which leads to higher current draw.

But I get about 20 minutes of pretty hard driving on 7ah capacity. More if I'm not driving it hard. I'll take it.

 

[Avyn Nix]

I’m still leaning toward the sbr but enlighten me on any other cool options I don’t think that’ll mind it flipping I’ve as much as it breaking a lot.

I drive until LVC in my original SBR. ~3.3V per cell.

I assumed drivetime would be terrible with the big motor and only 6S voltage, which leads to higher current draw.

But I get about 20 minutes of pretty hard driving on 7ah capacity. More if I'm not driving it hard. I'll take it.

Cool sees generous I like to have a decent amount of run time I was thinking of getting the cnhl 6600mah 120c 4s lipos for it.

 

[RC-Dude]

Lid not good to open when dusty. See the zip-ties. The printed XT90 keeps slipping.

Need to print a brace like that or have something similar. Got mine on thingiverse and used TPU. Others use aluminium.

Front brace keeps coming loose when nose diving. Have a spare one already but it seems like it's going to do the same thing in a short time.

6s will give more drive time as your Amps draw is not as high.

 

[KnowAir]

That's kind of a given for any truck in that size class. I haven't found it to be too far out of line with any of my other big trucks yet. It's kind of annoying that some parts are only sold in groups, like turnbuckles of which there are two different sizes. Need a short one? Too bad, gotta buy the entire set.

I will say, it is heavy so it is more prone to breakage if doing "things" outside of what it's designed for.

Very fun truck though, it's large and in charge.

I just had a similar experience, maybe it's a "Losi thing"? I need a shock piston for my Lasernut. I expected to have to buy at least a pair, maybe a set.. not the whole "shock parts set" though!? I mean, the tenacity pro shocks use threaded collars which is great, but to get shock pistons I have to buy a set that includes pistons, rod ends, bushings AND plastic spring spacers for the shock springs? So, $20 for a shock piston?
It's not broke, shafts not bent but it's binding in the shock body.. must've either swelled or have a crack that I can't see.. I used sandpaper to "down size" it..
Working fine now

 

[Dan B.]

Both DBXLE and SBR are not fun to clean.

I couldn’t disagree more. While the SBR is virtually impossible to clean without a lengthy disassembly and reassembly process, the DBXL-E is the easiest truck to clean that I own. Pull two front clips and tilt the body open. Easily the most accessible chassis I’ve ever owned. Also, the electronics are the same Spektrum 1/5 stuff as anything else, so you can indeed hose it down thoroughly while taking the same care with the electronics as you would with any other rig.

 

[KnowAir]

BTW, I chose the Mojave because it looks like a desert truck, but drives better than one..IMO.
If scale realism matters that much, I can understand that.
I also love the fact that alot of parts are cross compatible from other 6s Arrma's..plus the Mojo is a freakin tank!!

 

[CrashBoom]

I just had a similar experience, maybe it's a "Losi thing"?

I think you may be right, I'm pretty sure I've heard other people mention it too.

 

[RC-Dude]

I couldn’t disagree more. While the SBR is virtually impossible to clean without a lengthy disassembly and reassembly process, the DBXL-E is the easiest truck to clean that I own. Pull two front clips and tilt the body open. Easily the most accessible chassis I’ve ever owned. Also, the electronics are the same Spektrum 1/5 stuff as anything else, so you can indeed hose it down thoroughly while taking the same care with the electronics as you would with any other rig.

Sure you have a point there. But mostly I just want to clean the body with the hose and blow off the dirt from the chassis. Like I do with the Arrmas. Using the hose in the opened DBXLE lets all the water drip down. Just found the bearings last longer if I don't use the hose on the chassis every time. DBXLE is a nice car, should have kept it.