Kraton Wheel not coming off?

[bobs1811]

Wheel doesn't seem to be coming off,
anyone else had this issue before?

Could it be to do with the wheel hex pin getting stuck in the wheel? (grub screw was tight and has been removed just to note).

 

[gotnitro]

Most likely.

Grab a ball pin rubber hammer and hold the wheel whilst you give that hub a good smack. should pop right off.

 

[Johnny b]

Most likely.

Grab a ball pin rubber hammer and hold the wheel whilst you give that hub a good smack. should pop right off.

Throw a few cuss words in...always seems to help.

 

[bobs1811]

Most likely.

Grab a ball pin rubber hammer and hold the wheel whilst you give that hub a good smack. should pop right off.

tried that, looks like the pin is indeed stuck in the plastic wheel hex (can't think of anything else). Will probably break the wheel if I smack any harder but might be the only solution.

Just looked at one of the other wheels and just noticed it's been repaired for the same issue possibly ?(purchased car secondhand)

 

[blaster27]

Looks stripped to me. Try vise grips. Then buy new wheel hex nuts. 17mm? And a proper hex nut tool. Hope that works for you.

 

[Littlemotor]

Throw your purse at it….

In all seriousness-Arrma hexes are notorious for tearing up Arrma wheels.. they’re super thin as compared to other manufacturers, unless you get the increased width units.. Rock the wheel inter-sec-tion-a-ly compared to the axle stub shaft, while pulling, and it’ll pop right off.

 

[KnowAir]

That doesn't look like an Arrma wheel. Aftermarket perhaps? Arrma does make pretty good wheels for OE in my experience. Those look like some PowerHobby or Amazon no name wheels to me. Hard to believe the pin that secures the hex hub adapter could cause that kind of damage. I would use a heat gun from the outside face of the wheel and give it to it till the plastic softens up enough to yank it off. Then throw those crappy wheels in the trash and start over.

 

[bobs1811]

That doesn't look like an Arrma wheel. Aftermarket perhaps? Arrma does make pretty good wheels for OE in my experience. Those look like some PowerHobby or Amazon no name wheels to me. Hard to believe the pin that secures the hex hub adapter could cause that kind of damage. I would use a heat gun from the outside face of the wheel and give it to it till the plastic softens up enough to yank it off. Then throw those crappy wheels in the trash and start over.

yeah they are Sweep Terrain Crusher Belted Tyres, will try that

 

[KnowAir]

I mean no offense in any way. I know people here have used Sweeps and like them, I have never tried em. Looking at the wheels, they look too thin for hard bashing on 6s, that's all. Arrma's wheels are much thicker. Well 6s anyways.

 

[parcou]

Wheel doesn't seem to be coming off,
anyone else had this issue before?

Could it be to do with the wheel hex pin getting stuck in the wheel? (grub screw was tight and has been removed just to note).

View attachment 337656

Not that I would recommend M2C extended wheel hex due to their cost....

One reason I like them and use them even with different wheels is that they provide plenty of hex surfaces for wheels. I am not saying this was your issue, but I have had a few similar hex and wheel issues with stock hex.

Sorry for the issue

 

[SrC]

Throw your purse at it….

In all seriousness-Arrma hexes are notorious for tearing up Arrma wheels.. they’re super thin as compared to other manufacturers, unless you get the increased width units.. Rock the wheel inter-sec-tion-a-ly compared to the axle stub shaft, while pulling, and it’ll pop right off.

+1
Or get the M2C ones. Fatter hexes... Been there. My new V1 Lim out the box needed a Car large impact gun/17mm impact socket just to get the nuts off. 3 of 4. And then the same happened. The wheels were imbedded into the hexes. What a bear it was.
Mine was new and unused so, Arrma/HH replaced all the hubs, BB's every single part on 3 corners. Wheels etc. Much was damaged. Not just the wheels.
Talk about bad QC..... They clearly use Power tools to build these at the factory at a fast pace. The wheels were on so tight that they wouldn't even rotate. First thing I noticed out the box. Should roll easily, because it is a Roller.

 

[Littlemotor]

Here’s maybe a better explanation of my issue with Arrma hexes.. And I mean the hexes; not so much the wheel nuts. Below I have some photos of my 6s Talion with Castle 1515 2050kv, and MM2, along with my Tekno ET48 2.0 with Tekin 2250kv, and RX8 gen3 on 4s. Wheels/tires are Arrma belted Katars (box stock that came with that vehicle), and VP-Pro Turbo Trax Evo on DE Racing dished truggy wheels in standard offset.

What I mean by ultra-thin (narrow) wheel hexes is this:

My Talion 6s EXB’s are 4mm thick. Here’s where it gets even more ridiculous for a vehicle that’s pretty damned heavy, and powered BONE STOCK with a 6s, brushless setup…. -when machining the already thin hexes, they decided it’d be a grand idea to literally (and I simply can NOT believe this shiiiiiit) CHAMFER the sides of the 6 “points” of the hex where the “flats” meet up… My Mitutoyo 8” digi-calipers read 2.87mm here at the point tips, and are only ever the whopping 4mm at the very center of the flats due to the chamfer… This leaves absolutely no surface area what so ever, there by leaving the wheel a snowball’s chance in hell of not allowing the hex to rotate within it..

That legit blows my mind…. Now here is a factory wheel/tire combo after 1 6s battery pack, and not a single sketchy landing from 40’ in the air…

The wheel stopped slipping over that KNIFE EDGE of a wheel hex only once it got to the “meatiest” portion of the female hex within the plastic wheel… Obviously my wheel didn’t want to come off after that… My wheel nuts are checked prior to, and after every run. Factory serrated, and were right before, and after. This is why I check stuff before and after a run. The wheel is not destroyed because of that.

Now here is one of my Tekno’s with factory hexes, nuts, and DE Racing wheels..

This is just an attempt to better explain my previous post relating to a major issue I have with my Talion’s hex design (and I’m sure it’s that way across the board for the 6s line), and not at all a blatant bashing of the brand. I’m also aware that the Tekno hexes are wider than what the wheel actually uses, and that’s fine, but it should NEVER be LESS… I’ve also ran my Katars on my Tekno, and never had a problem with the hex rotating inside the wheel, and in turn; the wheel becoming stuck on the hex because of it. Now, as far as a hex cross pin coming out of the hex goes, and you can see this in the OP’s photo; the hex would first have to be allowed to rotate inside the wheel exactly as mine did. Hope that clears up any confusion from my initial post.

 

[SrC]

I never had any of the Arrma issues or anything with my MT410. Tekno doesn't cheap out . Tekno spoiled me.

 

[Littlemotor]

+1
Or get the M2C ones. Fatter hexes... Been there. My new V1 Lim out the box needed a Car large impact gun/17mm impact socket just to get the nuts off. 3 of 4. And then the same happened. The wheels were imbedded into the hexes. What a bear it was.
Mine was new and unused so, Arrma/HH replaced all the hubs, BB's every single part on 3 corners. Wheels etc. Much was damaged. Not just the wheels.
Talk about bad QC..... They clearly use Power tools to build these at the factory at a fast pace. The wheels were on so tight that they wouldn't even rotate. First thing I noticed out the box. Should roll easily, because it is a Roller.

Eleventybillion% with ya buddy! The only reason I have t gone M2C, is that I put this pig on a diet as much as I could when I tore it down to nothing after the first day for all the upgrades.. Those M2C units are some big ol’ boys lol.. I’ve been meaning to find the time to do some figuring for Tekno, Mugen, Associated, Kyosho, etc. hexes and nuts. That would also have me outfitted with the fine thread pitch on this thing as well, I just have been tied up with other stuff due to the season and all.. I’m honestly coming to a point where I don’t know what to do with it.. I picked it up as a starter/learner for my girl, and after she realized how much loot is tied up in it, she’s petrified she’s gonna break “that expensive one”… Well it got expensive BECAUSE I knew she was gonna wreck it lol..

I never had any of the Arrma issues or anything with my MT410. Tekno doesn't cheap out . Tekno spoiled me.

I see what you did there!

I truly wasn’t trying to start anything-I just happened to have both vehicles sitting on the bench as I was reading back over my first post, and one of the other recent posts from another member..

Don’t get me wrong, this thing is BRUTAL. It’s also a tank, and waaaaaay overbuilt. But some of the shiiiit the engineers (surprise….) decided was a stellar idea, is just absolute failsauce. I’ve seen the same in top of the line race kits for the last 30yrs too. I’m not just picking on Arrma lol.

 

[SrC]

Pick on whomever Brand you want. We are all good here. This is RC anonymous. Let it all out. You will feel much better after a few sessions.

 

[KnowAir]

I guess I fail to see how a nice wide hex adapter benefits anything if the mating surface in the wheel is too shallow to make use of the wide hex?
Yes, the K6 hexes are ridiculously narrow, I have no idea why Arrma did that. The cheapest and easiest remedy I know of is to buy the Arrma hex adapters for the FT. I picked mine from JRC for like $15. Direct fit, much wider than K6 hexes, in stock at JRC right now too.

 

[Littlemotor]

I guess I fail to see how a nice wide hex adapter benefits anything if the mating surface in the wheel is too shallow to make use of the wide hex?
Yes, the K6 hexes are ridiculously narrow, I have no idea why Arrma did that. The cheapest and easiest remedy I know of is to buy the Arrma hex adapters for the FT. I picked mine from JRC for like $15. Direct fit, much wider than K6 hexes, in stock at JRC right now too.

They’re done that way on race vehicles as a tuning option to increase, or decrease track width. The reason I brought it up was specifically to contrast how Arrma uses already thin hexes, then takes material AWAY exactly where it’s needed most, making them even thinner, which is what causes the exact problem we’re discussing in this thread. I don’t care who makes the hexes, as long as they’re not chamfered. As I stated in my replies to the OP; I happened to have both vehicles on my bench in front of me, so it was a very simple, and easily documented comparison/explanation.

 

[KnowAir]

They’re done that way on race vehicles as a tuning option to increase, or decrease track width. The reason I brought it up was specifically to contrast how Arrma uses already thin hexes, then takes material AWAY exactly where it’s needed most, making them even thinner, which is what causes the exact problem we’re discussing in this thread. I don’t care who makes the hexes, as long as they’re not chamfered. As I stated in my replies to the OP; I happened to have both vehicles on my bench in front of me, so it was a very simple, and easily documented comparison/explanation.

I can understand the tuning options. But Arrma doesn't make them skinny acrossed the board on all, just the Kraton. Why, who knows. Easy fix though with the FT hexes. I think the hexes on the Mojave are wider than the K6 IIRC. Weird indeed.

 

[Littlemotor]

I can understand the tuning options. But Arrma doesn't make them skinny acrossed the board on all, just the Kraton. Why, who knows. Easy fix though with the FT hexes. I think the hexes on the Mojave are wider than the K6 IIRC. Weird indeed.

They do on my Talion that I posted photos of as well… Not sure what else-I assume any of the off road 6s EXB line that shares driveline components with the Kraton. In any case, their engineers should be smacked for that nonsense.
Here ya go.. MUCH better than the Talion/Kraton/maybe more, but that stupid chamfer just kills me… That should NEVER be done on that application, period. So they at least gain some very much needed width, but still removed material where it’s needed most; where it resides inside a plastic wheel.

 

[KnowAir]

They do on my Talion that I posted photos of as well… Not sure what else-I assume any of the off road 6s EXB line that shares driveline components with the Kraton. In any case, their engineers should be smacked for that nonsense.
Here ya go.. MUCH better than the Talion/Kraton/maybe more, but that stupid chamfer just kills me… That should NEVER be done on that application, period. So they at least gain some very much needed width, but still removed material where it’s needed most; where it resides inside a plastic wheel.
View attachment 337799

I stand corrected, I was just looking at different Arrma 6s hub adapters, aside from the FT, BR and new K6EXB, the others all have the thinner hexes.
Of course if the wheel we're using doesn't have a hex that's deep enough to take advantage of the hexes width, no gain. I see Tekno (MT410) hex adapters are chamfered at the edges as well, my guess is ease of wheel installation.
On a different note, Arrma does use small diameter pins to secure the adapters to the stub axles, which I have broken several of over the past 3 years. Tekno .3 models also used small pins, the 2.0 and 2.1 models now use larger pins, like any credible race level rig does, such as Xray. IMO as a basher, Arrma should be using larger diameter pins too.