Why in the HELL does arrma not fix their crappy driveshafts?

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For some reason I was only breaking fronts, then I adjusted my slipper and I've had the same set on it for about a year, they are getting a bit wore out though.

And @Adamd Arrma does make an upgrade for those as long as you have the Senton, Granite or Big Rock https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310870 they will work on the Typhon but you will have to use one of the 17mm hub adapters for the Granite, Senton or Big Rock.
Ok cool thanks and I did try loosening the slipper and it seems extremely sensitive if I barely back it off from fully tight it slips a lot and barely moves how do you set yours?
Release your throttle when you land from a jump, made a huge difference
I don't jump
Typhon 3s from 2019 and now running 6s motor and electronics. Original driveshafts. Granite 3s February 2020. Original driveshafts. What sucks is I bought about 5 extra sets from Jennys Rc back in 2019 expecting exploding shafts, but now they just take up space in my 3s parts box🤬
I'll take em off your hands lol
Please explain. Pics help. I have ran 3s driveshaft on 6s so there clearly must be some sort of user error.
I drive it on grass and gravel I try to go as fast as I can I'm running 4s and other than that it's just the occasional rollover . I'm not doing anything special
Since I just put on an old drove shaft for now these are two examples of the problems I'm running into with the drive shafts. I've never had the hex come loose and I've never thread locked them either precisely because of these two problems
Post some pics like mentioned , I'm sure some good suggestions will pop up and find the problem quicker that cussing...:D
However we definitely understand the frustration.
Believe me that cussing was very much filtered because I know I need to watch what I say however I just posted a picture of 2 examples of my driveshaft issues
 

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Mine is only ever ran on 2S, with the slipper out about a half turn, and it still snaps shafts about every 4 or 5 days, to the point where i don't even bother running it anymore.
 
Mine is only ever ran on 2S, with the slipper out about a half turn, and it still snaps shafts about every 4 or 5 days, to the point where i don't even bother running it anymore.
You shouldn't be popping them on 2s something isn't right there.
 
Yep, I’ve had my granite (3s stock standard) from new for about two weeks and had to pop the rear Uni joints back in about 4 times. Slipper seems alright but I’ll check it again I think.

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I’ve been beating my granite driveshafts on over geared 4s, 55+mph pure abuse bashing in the most abrasive hot sandy terrain and the most gross dirty muck and dirt I can find in my state for 2 years and popped one rear driveshaft and one front one. Replaced the rear one and I’m still running the front one a year later. I do not treat my granite nicely but it keeps trucking. All the parts are original to the time I purchased it accept for the spur, arms, a few ring and pinion sets, and chassis brace. Mastering the slipper clutch is an art my friend and I got her licked at the moment. No maintenance for months, something is off here because simply replacing parts without looking into why those parts failed or what caused them to fail will not fix the issue.
Why do you think I started this post ? I specifically asked what I need to do to stop having to buy the same parts over and over . Thanks for the advice
calm down rainbow brite GIF
Keep calm😉 how do we know which is “crappy” driveshafts or user?
That's rude considering I was describing crappy pieces of plastic.
Why do you think I started this post ? I specifically asked what I need to do to stop having to buy the same parts over and over . Thanks for the advice

That's rude considering I was describing

Never had an issue with mine and I've done both speed runs and bashing 🤷‍♂️....reiterate please
Reiterate what ? My drive shafts constantly come apart . Only when I drive fast .... I don't jump it I don't crash it head on into walls . Just the average runs and rollovers . Since you've never had an issue with yours maybe you can describe how your set up is?
 
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@arrma_alt that picture looks like you have a lot of abrasion on those rotating parts with your turnbuckles and looks like the CV is pushing your spring to the side. I would look into that.
 
After I read all above , re-adjust your slipper (loosen it some), Alternatively, Tone down the ESC Punch setting to help.
The rest must be USER error. Yes, these largely break from user error. 🤷‍♂️
Keep the universals clean. Wear exacerbates the issue.
Seems to be a combination of Faux Pas.
:cool:
 
@arrma_alt that picture looks like you have a lot of abrasion on those rotating parts with your turnbuckles and looks like the CV is pushing your spring to the side. I would look into that.
I noticed the springs were sorta crooked looking it's been that way even with the stock ones . What do you recommend as far as troubleshooting and fixing the issue ?
 
One of my drive shafts just blew apart today. Maybe I'll get the metal ones.
Are those fully metal? Or are the slider/telescopic pieces plastic? I am interested in them.

Okay, these ones from Hobbytown USA say they are only compatible with the MEGA line, but they are the same exact part number as the ones on ARRMA rc that say they are compatible withe the MEGA and the BLX line. Should I risk getting the ones off of Hobbytown for faster delivery and less shipping?
 
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There are a few reasons this happens, but all are easily fixable
1) User error - not landing off throttle, spinning the wheels to pizzas on a high speed run and flipping the car etc.
2) Slipper clutch too tight, or insufficient threadlock so it keep self adjusting and periodically over tightening itself - if you get erratic wheelie behaviour this is probably why. You want to set it so it can just wheelie when provoked - if it pops up all the time the slipper is likely transferring too much torque for the drive-chain. The BRCC has a longer wheelbase than the Granite and so puts more strain on everything when pulling wheelies etc.
3) ESC punch turned up - more power = more wear and tear - you make your choice
4) Once they have popped once they will keep doing it getting easier each time so need replacing while learning from above. If you do pop them back on heat them in hot water first and then pinch them inwards while hot and they will last damage less and last a little longer. You can also swap them side-to-side to reverse the main direction of power and get a bit more life from them.

Mine had the slipper locked down from the factory and so popped the first set, since adjusting slipper properly the replacements have been fine and I've been very impressed by these 3S trucks.
 
I'm so sick of having to but the same parts evwrytime I go run only to have them come apart again wtf do i need to do get or adjust so that these driveshafts will stop coming apart????
Make 100% that your droop screws are set properly. You put too much strain on the driveshafts when your suspension is out of whack due to improperly set droop. Just a thought
 
Not yet I plan on picking some up from the local shop or ordering them if they don't have them in stock. Idk what's going on but everything is sold out as far as parts go lol
I noticed the exact same problem with our local shop too, and even on a lot of websites...its as if everyone suddenly went out and bought arrma 3s blx's and now need parts for them!

Mine is sitting on its workstand waiting for backorder'd parts!
 
I'm late to this thread but I had this for a while and it was all caused by a seized bearing. To my shame I had three driveshafts pop before I identified the issue (and I generally consider myself fairly bright) :/
I've found the larger inner ones seem particularly prone to seizing when run in wet/dirty conditions (e.g. UK winter). I now test my cars before every run, lift one end and push - make sure both in-air wheels turn at the same rate, repeat at the other end. Any slow wheel means a problem somewhere and it should take little effort to push it.
 
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