Why in the HELL does arrma not fix their crappy driveshafts?

[L3phturn]

I've found the larger inner ones seem particularly prone to seizing when run in wet/dirty conditions (e.g. UK winter). I now test my cars before every run, lift one end and push - make sure both in-air wheels turn at the same rate, repeat at the other end. Any slow wheel means a problem somewhere and it should take little effort to push it.

Great tip! I hadn’t thought of that. Quick and easy to check each run instead of waiting to disassemble it and check.

 

[arrma_alt]

There are a few reasons this happens, but all are easily fixable
1) User error - not landing off throttle, spinning the wheels to pizzas on a high speed run and flipping the car etc.
2) Slipper clutch too tight, or insufficient threadlock so it keep self adjusting and periodically over tightening itself - if you get erratic wheelie behaviour this is probably why. You want to set it so it can just wheelie when provoked - if it pops up all the time the slipper is likely transferring too much torque for the drive-chain. The BRCC has a longer wheelbase than the Granite and so puts more strain on everything when pulling wheelies etc.
3) ESC punch turned up - more power = more wear and tear - you make your choice
4) Once they have popped once they will keep doing it getting easier each time so need replacing while learning from above. If you do pop them back on heat them in hot water first and then pinch them inwards while hot and they will last damage less and last a little longer. You can also swap them side-to-side to reverse the main direction of power and get a bit more life from them.

Mine had the slipper locked down from the factory and so popped the first set, since adjusting slipper properly the replacements have been fine and I've been very impressed by these 3S trucks.

Best response ever. Thanks so much for taking the time to post and respond.

practical, useable tips. Love it.

 

[Adamd]

I'm late to this thread but I had this for a while and it was all caused by a seized bearing. To my shame I had three driveshafts pop before I identified the issue (and I generally consider myself fairly bright) :/

Which bearing seized? I replaced all my bearings not long ago

I’ve been beating my granite driveshafts on over geared 4s, 55+mph pure abuse bashing in the most abrasive hot sandy terrain and the most gross dirty muck and dirt I can find in my state for 2 years and popped one rear driveshaft and one front one. Replaced the rear one and I’m still running the front one a year later. I do not treat my granite nicely but it keeps trucking. All the parts are original to the time I purchased it accept for the spur, arms, a few ring and pinion sets, and chassis brace. Mastering the slipper clutch is an art my friend and I got her licked at the moment. No maintenance for months, something is off here because simply replacing parts without looking into why those parts failed or what caused them to fail will not fix the issue.

Did I not mention in my post what I should do /buy/adjust to fix the problem ? none of what you said was at all helpful, my friend. You just bragged about running 4s said that you mastered the art of the slipper then said replacing parts without looking into why they failed won't fix it which is almost exactly what I asked but ... ok

I’ve been beating my granite driveshafts on over geared 4s, 55+mph pure abuse bashing in the most abrasive hot sandy terrain and the most gross dirty muck and dirt I can find in my state for 2 years and popped one rear driveshaft and one front one. Replaced the rear one and I’m still running the front one a year later. I do not treat my granite nicely but it keeps trucking. All the parts are original to the time I purchased it accept for the spur, arms, a few ring and pinion sets, and chassis brace. Mastering the slipper clutch is an art my friend and I got her licked at the moment. No maintenance for months, something is off here because simply replacing parts without looking into why those parts failed or what caused them to fail will not fix the issue.

Did I not mention in my post what I should do /buy/adjust to fix the problem ? none of what you said was at all helpful, my friend. You just bragged about running 4s said that you mastered the art of the slipper then said replacing parts without looking into why they failed won't fix it which is almost exactly what I asked but ... ok
Reiterate what? My drive shafts kept coming apart. Did you mean explicate?

Never had an issue with mine and I've done both speed runs and bashing ....reiterate please

 

[Grimbles]

Which bearing seized? I replaced all my bearings not long ago

Read up ^^

 

[ilovevisitingrcshops]

I'm so sick of having to but the same parts evwrytime I go run only to have them come apart again wtf do i need to do get or adjust so that these driveshafts will stop coming apart????

You're absolutely right it is frustrating when you spend between three and $600 on a vehicle and you take it out for the first time and you're wondering why after five minutes just got 2 Wheel Dr..

like any other hobby shop I'm sure they hear about the complaints but they don't advise you when you're handing them the money and then if you want to go back and say lock my car is not working they tell you you know what go talk to Arrma and good luck with that but I'm a diehard dummies I'll keep buying the Garbage product and just say adjust your slipper clutch saw your car barely even moves on throttle lake what is the point of a slipper clutch anyway? What can be accomplished by a slipper clutch can easily be accomplished with proper suck throttle control that's after all your main goal you want to get throttle control now because the power to weight ratio on these vehicles are so far apart even if you're on concrete if you punch it your tire should spin before anything and if not dona wheelie. The slipper is designed to operate with ANY vehicle its installed on from tight to loose. Maybe it has so ething to do with the rotation force wanting to open the pieces of plastic at the u joints you can flex with ypur thimbs? Easy fix arrma thread the metal pieces and put a washer head screw so they can't open. OR make a more porous stabilizer bottom frame sonrocks don't get pinched between it and the spinning drive shaft causing it to seperate. Maybe a rock shield? Whatever it is they have to do something what I ended up doing is pop riveting a piece of metal from the backside of my vortex frame just to about quarter inch away from my tire and so far they stop popping they never did on concrete they never did on sand it was only rocky ground or thicker things can be flung up and caught in between them and that's what's happening I want to come apart and you put them back together that's it they're done they'll always come apart

 

[Tex86]

I noticed someone mentioning integy drive shafts/axles. Has anyone tried these? I'm skeptical about amazon or ebay with the amount of negative feedback I see out there.

 

[slick2500]

I noticed someone mentioning integy drive shafts/axles. Has anyone tried these? I'm skeptical about amazon or ebay with the amount of negative feedback I see out there.

Based on the reviews of their drive shafts for other models I wouldn't buy them.