Notorious would you upgrade the bulkheads and diffs?

[Spawne32]

Just about done my EXB parts swap from an outcast onto my notorious. Replaced the shock towers, center braces, center bearing support, front bumper and installed scorched rc titanium driveshafts (rear/center). Got a brand new max8 esc in there and some ram jam racing titanium motor bolts along with the included high speed pinion on the stock motor.

Was debating on upgrading the bulkheads from jennys but I see that they are still the open diffs in those and was contemplating if it was worth it going to the LSD style or just buying assembled diffs from vitavon or such. Also unsure if I should wait or upgrade the hinge pin supports as well.

 

[PrerunninF150]

If it was me I would wait unless I had money burning a hole in my pocket. Open diffs handle just fine and the hinge pin mounts last quite a while unless you crash all the time. I would consider the exb or other brand top rear aluminum hinge pin mount as there is no metal in there and is prone to crack rather easily.

 

[hobo]

I am dying to upgrade to aluminum diff housings on at least one of my arrmas but don't have any trouble with the plastic ones and there expensive. I would leave the exb diffs open. I had a lot of trouble with the lsd diffs a few years ago just couldn't get them right

 

[calebgilmore]

I am dying to upgrade to aluminum diff housings on at least one of my arrmas but don't have any trouble with the plastic ones and there expensive. I would leave the exb diffs open. I had a lot of trouble with the lsd diffs a few years ago just couldn't get them right

There's some on aliexpress that look just like the hot racing ones for under $30 a piece i'm going to try. I haven't had any issues with plastic either and don't normally plan on doing hubs or bulkheads unless i buy a truck with them on it. Figure for that price even if they suck they can't be much worse than the plastics

 

[morrjr71]

I upgraded my bulkheads in my Kraton to Hot Racing bulkheads one at a time when I got some extra money together. I did the rear first, then the front. At the time, HR was about the only ones who made aluminum housings for the Arrma 6s vehicles. Now, there are other manufacturers making them, and there is a wider choice.

 

[hobo]

I upgraded my bulkheads in my Kraton to Hot Racing bulkheads one at a time when I got some extra money together. I did the rear first, then the front. At the time, HR was about the only ones who made aluminum housings for the Arrma 6s vehicles. Now, there are other manufacturers making them, and there is a wider choice.

are they still going strong

 

[calebgilmore]

are they still going strong

I bet they are. Rich D and several others that beat their rigs like they owe them money haven't had issues with them. Only downside is you have to buy them in 3 parts instead of in one piece. The main case, cover, and sway bar cover are all sold separately

 

[morrjr71]

are they still going strong

Yes, but I don't bash hard. I mostly drive fast in dirt and grass with almost no jumps. I haven't read of any issues with them from those who do bash harder than I do. I will say the quality of the machining is fantastic: the diffs fit in perfectly, and the input larger bearings HR uses in the bulkheads are a plus.

The only downside to the HR parts is you have to buy the gearbox, gearbox cover, and sway bar cover separately. You can save a bit of money by using the stock composite sway bar covers, which I did for a while until I could afford the aluminum covers. Other brands include the gearbox cover with the gearbox. There weren't any options when I bought my first HR gearbox - no one else was offering them then.

 

[Spawne32]

My only beef with the ali express ones is that in past experiences they require a lot of shimming to get correct. I don't typically bash hard either, we only just last weekend built a small ramp to get some 10 foot jumps and the weight of the car actually broke the ramp. lol So back to the drawing board on that. I just installed the GPM front tie rods tonight and oh my god how easy it finally was to get rid of some of that extreme toe out and center the steering.

 

[RC Steve]

The A hinge pin mounting screws just sheared, there went a $100. Aluminum gearboxes are good if you're pushing power boundaries, but for bashing plastic gearboxes are better. The $100 Vitavon gearbox is still sitting in my junk bin.

My recommendation is a pair of Big Rock gearboxes from Jenny's. They come with EXB open diffs. Just got a set for my Outcast, they're nice and come with everything.

 

[Spawne32]

The A hinge pin mounting screws just sheared, there went a $100. Aluminum gearboxes are good if you're pushing power boundaries, but for bashing plastic gearboxes are better. The $100 Vitavon gearbox is still sitting in my junk bin.

My recommendation is a pair of Big Rock gearboxes from Jenny's. They come with EXB open diffs. Just got a set for my Outcast, they're nice and come with everything.

What's the difference between BLX and EXB open diffs?

 

[RC Steve]

More gear overlap on the ring and input gears, thicker shafts on the drive cups, and thicker cross pins. EXB diffs can handle more power than BLX and are less prone to slipping.

 

[razorrc]

If you’re not breaking diff housings, why would you upgrade them? More weight, less money.

 

[hobo]

Yes, but I don't bash hard. I mostly drive fast in dirt and grass with almost no jumps. I haven't read of any issues with them from those who do bash harder than I do. I will say the quality of the machining is fantastic: the diffs fit in perfectly, and the input larger bearings HR uses in the bulkheads are a plus.

The only downside to the HR parts is you have to buy the gearbox, gearbox cover, and sway bar cover separately. You can save a bit of money by using the stock composite sway bar covers, which I did for a while until I could afford the aluminum covers. Other brands include the gearbox cover with the gearbox. There weren't any options when I bought my first HR gearbox - no one else was offering them then.

if I get any they will be the scorched rc ones cause I live in the uk. its so tempting right now cause hes brought the price down to 80 pound from a hundred

 

[morrjr71]

I bought Scorched hinge pin mounts for my Kraton 6s a few weeks ago: his prices are competitive, and the quality is awesome.

 

[hobo]

I bought Scorched hinge pin mounts for my Kraton 6s a few weeks ago: his prices are competitive, and the quality is awesome.

yes he's cheaper that most and the quality is super. had a few things of him now shock towers chassis front hinge pin brace and the rear hinge pin braces the ones with the plastic inserts that's all he had at the time otherwise would have had the ones hes just brought out

 

[Spawne32]

Yeh I have the scorched RC titanium driveshafts installed already on the rear and center, will probably order a set for the front as well.

 

[hobo]

Yeh I have the scorched RC titanium driveshafts installed already on the rear and center, will probably order a set for the front as well.

I don't bother with driveshafts never had any trouble with stock ones. have bent a few over the years but just straightened them out

 

[parcou]

@Spawne32 I'm not sure how you bash if you are not going to the moon. Check the diffs. I have found that good danm shimming to take side/side movement away and shimming the input to the diff to make a solid connection makes a good diff. Also, check the center diff as well, making sure it is seated well. I go as far as the center to remove the plastic for the aluminum mount towards the front to remove the flex from the plastic stock one. Address any slop you can. I remove as much out the front/rear arms (esp front arms) as well as the wheel wobble at the front/rear hubs as well as the wheel hex so when the tire is on, you address the wheel wobble.

I'm not saying it is 100, but some time to comb over the rig to firm it up helps, and to date, since 2020, I have never busted a diff. Yes, I have killed some diff gears due to slop and poor mesh, not rechecking the OEM install over. My Kraton has a rear LSD. I fixed mine with shims, and the stock rear is tight and strong. No issues at all.

Just sharing....

 

[Dan B.]

Just about done my EXB parts swap from an outcast onto my notorious. Replaced the shock towers, center braces, center bearing support, front bumper and installed scorched rc titanium driveshafts (rear/center). Got a brand new max8 esc in there and some ram jam racing titanium motor bolts along with the included high speed pinion on the stock motor.

Was debating on upgrading the bulkheads from jennys but I see that they are still the open diffs in those and was contemplating if it was worth it going to the LSD style or just buying assembled diffs from vitavon or such. Also unsure if I should wait or upgrade the hinge pin supports as well.

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Be aware that the titanium center shafts will wear more rapidly than the stockers. They are more for speed runners than bashers.