Notorious 5s battery???

[KnowAir]

Yes of course. A cell is just a cell. You can solder them in parallel or in series. As many as you want however you want. Then just tape them up and you have a battery pack.

There’s fire and injury risk working with batteries like that though. Considering the price of a 2S battery, I personally wouldn’t mess with it.

There's a tab that connects the 2 cells, looks as if it is spot welded? How do you rejoin those? Not about the money of the pack, about the cost of the pack AND the hassle of getting rid of them to me. Hate land filling good cells.

 

[332_RC]

Yes it fits a Kraton just fine. No mods necessary.

The MMX8S 1650kv combo is on sale for $306 at Amazon right now.

https://a.co/d/hLnw1Ne

Sweet! I'm either gonna go that route  OR a HW Ezrun MAX8 G2 w/ a TP4060 1750kv (20 or 21t pinion)

 

[KnowAir]

I’d expect performance to be very similar between the 4070 and the 1717.

But I buy sensored whenever I can. Sure the smooth throttle is nice, but the best part of a sensored setup is the automatic motor temp cutoff. You can gear higher without checking or worrying about motor temps.

To each his own of course, but for me, the less wires/sensors, the better. I try gearing my stuff so it doesn't even need a fan much less a temp sensor.

 

[nomis38]

Yes of course. A cell is just a cell. You can solder them in parallel or in series. As many as you want however you want. Then just tape them up and you have a battery pack.

There’s fire and injury risk working with batteries like that though. Considering the price of a 2S battery, I personally wouldn’t mess with it.

Agreed

@KnowAir - Also sometimes you'll have people warn you not to join cells of different manufactures and types. Although I understand people's concerns with LiPo's I have done this with 0 issues. I just make sure and match mah's.

 

[KnowAir]

Agreed

@KnowAir - Also sometimes you'll have people warn you not to join cells of different manufactures and types. Although I understand people's concerns with LiPo's I have done this with 0 issues. I just make sure and match mah's.

Thanks, IDK if I'll ever follow through, depends how bored I get. I've had a half dozen packs laying around for quite a while now while I contemplated whether or not I really want to get into swapping cells. They are cheap Zeee batteries so, like $15 bucks per 2s pack..LOL.

 

[nomis38]

Thanks, IDK if I'll ever follow through, depends how bored I get. I've had a half dozen packs laying around for quite a while now while I contemplated whether or not I really want to get into swapping cells. They are cheap Zeee batteries so, like $15 bucks per 2s pack..LOL.

Agreed on that I usually only cut cells out of expensive packs to save it.

 

[KnowAir]

Agreed on that I usually only cut cells out of expensive packs to save it.

Call me "two coats", as in tighter than two coats of paint!!
Funniest part is, the very reason I buy cheap batteries is to not worry if it gets damaged or loses a cell.. yet, here I am..
I think it's a sickness.

 

[SrC]

There's a tab that connects the 2 cells, looks as if it is spot welded? How do you rejoin those? Not about the money of the pack, about the cost of the pack AND the hassle of getting rid of them to me. Hate land filling good cells.

Yeah it is such a waste to toss the good remaining cells. I agree 100%.
Repairing a pack this way is NOT for the faint of heart. I've done it a few times with fairly new packs that went south. Sometimes its worth it.
I have several packs here that are not RC worthy, so I use them as power sources for other things around my home. I even Boosted my car's Dead battery one time with a 4s Pack. A life saver.
I just don't mess with Physically damaged Lipo packs.

 

[KnowAir]

Yeah it is such a waste to toss the good remaining cells. I agree 100%.
Repairing a pack this way is NOT for the faint of heart. I've done it a few times with fairly new packs that went south. Sometimes its worth it.
I have several packs here that are not RC worthy, so I use them as power sources for other things around my home. I even Boosted my car's Dead battery one time with a 4s Pack. A life saver.
I just don't mess with Physically damaged Lipo packs.

I have some questionable 3s packs, I use them for my Flysky GT3b, which normally uses 8 AA alkalines. Works quite well, downsides are having a 3s 5200mah strapped to the base of the radio and the low voltage alarm comes in way too late.. so, I have to be mindful to check battery voltage from time to time on the radio's heads up display.
Great tip on the jumper battery! I have at least one 4s CNHL that has dropped a cell. Might work.
Once upon a time I bought a 3s 2000mah for the Flysky radio, fit in the battery tray nicely, lasted quite a while per charge too..then, like an idiot, I left the radio on for a day or two..bye-bye 3s battery..

 

[SrC]

Yeah I got a 2s Lipo 4k mah pack in My Radiolink. Having a spare backup if it dies. Hate dealing with alkaline $AA's$. They ALWAYS leak/corrode and ruin the radios or other items. I ruined my nice temp gun with alkalines. I was even careful to use dielectric grease on the tips of all my AA's. for moral support. Whether you use Expensive Duracells or not. Even if I buy AA's in Bulk to save some coin, I find they leaked in the package, when I need them. The Refrigerator trick doesn't work with Alkaline batteries IMHO. Tried that also. That is just an Urban myth. Does nothing. Just takes up space in the Fridge.
I think the constant cycling of Condensation inside a fridge ruins alkaline batteries over time, if anything.

 

[SirCrashALot]

Yeah I got a 2s Lipo 4k mah pack in My Radiolink. Having a spare backup if it dies. Hate dealing with alkaline $AA's$. They ALWAYS leak/corrode and ruin the radios or other items. I ruined my nice temp gun with alkalines. I was even careful to use dielectric grease on the tips of all my AA's. for moral support. Whether you use Expensive Duracells or not. Even if I buy AA's in Bulk to save some coin, I find they leaked in the package, when I need them. The Refrigerator trick doesn't work with Alkaline batteries IMHO. Tried that also. That is just an Urban myth. Does nothing. Just takes up space in the Fridge.
I think the constant cycling of Condensation inside a fridge ruins alkaline batteries over time, if anything.

I use rechargeable 1.5V lithium AA batteries for my remotes. They have a USB-C charge port built in. I have to recharge them every 5 runs. That takes about half an hour.

 

[SrC]

Yeah I run the same 1.5v Lipo AA's in my DX5C also. They work great also. Just the run times are shorter. I also keep spare set of 4 when I go out to bash. They will drop off very quick. Losing signal. The radio's voltage drop warning doesn't give enough advance warning with these. No matter how you set the DX5C battery alarm setting.

 

[KnowAir]

I use rechargeable 1.5V lithium AA batteries for my remotes. They have a USB-C charge port built in. I have to recharge them every 5 runs. That takes about half an hour.

What's the capacity on these? 5 runs? Oh no, I can't be bothered, LOL
One of the reasons I keep the old GT3b around is the 12v battery spec..plus I have about 15 receivers. No TSM or AVC but, I outgrew the training wheels long ago..
My limit now is BEC.. I don't think my Flysky crap will tolerate 8.4v.. 7.2 is okay, haven't tried 8.4v though.

 

[dure16]

What's the capacity on these? 5 runs? Oh no, I can't be bothered, LOL
One of the reasons I keep the old GT3b around is the 12v battery spec..plus I have about 15 receivers. No TSM or AVC but, I outgrew the training wheels long ago..
My limit now is BEC.. I don't think my Flysky crap will tolerate 8.4v.. 7.2 is okay, haven't tried 8.4v though.

Mine last much longer than 5 runs. I've used them up to maybe 15 runs and have never had a problem. They've never gone low on me. I only charge them because I think about it.

They've been great.

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B08RZ5NDMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[SirCrashALot]

Yeah I run the same 1.5v Lipo AA's in my DX5C also. They work great also. Just the run times are shorter. I also keep spare set of 4 when I go out to bash. They will drop off very quick. Losing signal. The radio's voltage drop warning doesn't give enough advance warning with these. No matter how you set the DX5C battery alarm setting.

The FS GT5 shows its battery level in the display.
Fully charged is at 6.09V.
When voltage drops to 5.9, it gets noticeable and they need recharging. They hold voltage for 5 or 6 packs. Then they drop suddenly. But i use 8000 mah lipos. Runtime about 40 minutes per pack. So i don't complain.

 

[nomis38]

Just rip out the stock radio battery holder and toss in a 2s 2000 to 3000mah LiPo silly goose

 

[SrC]

What's the capacity on these? 5 runs? Oh no, I can't be bothered, LOL
One of the reasons I keep the old GT3b around is the 12v battery spec..plus I have about 15 receivers. No TSM or AVC but, I outgrew the training wheels long ago..
My limit now is BEC.. I don't think my Flysky crap will tolerate 8.4v.. 7.2 is okay, haven't tried 8.4v though.

+1.
Just a very few of my 19 rigs run gyros. Spektrum AVC is the worst crap IMHO. Been there. ST Oscillation issues abound with them. Finicky to setup, etc.
My speed runners I do run gyros for sure. To help avoid major $carnage$ at very high speeds. I like Flysky "Standalone" Gyros best if I want one.
I actually prefer no training wheels myself. No crutches with my basher rigs. I prefer 100% driver input. More of a challenge, helps you become a better driver without.

 

[KnowAir]

+1.
Just a very few of my 19 rigs run gyros. Spektrum AVC is the worst crap IMHO. Been there. ST Oscillation issues abound with them. Finicky to setup, etc.
My speed runners I do run gyros for sure. To help avoid major $carnage$ at very high speeds. I like Flysky "Standalone" Gyros best if I want one.
I actually prefer no training wheels myself. No crutches with my basher rigs. I prefer 100% driver input. More of a challenge, helps you become a better driver without.

Yeah, speed running can get dicey I bet. I've used the gyro receivers and I see the benefits, but honestly I just don't like the fact that it over rides my inputs. Even turned all the way down, still there. I just assume live without. I'm an old dog I guess, LOL.

 

[nomis38]

Yeah, speed running can get dicey I bet. I've used the gyro receivers and I see the benefits, but honestly I just don't like the fact that it over rides my inputs. Even turned all the way down, still there. I just assume live without. I'm an old horse I guess, LOL.

Gyro's don't override you. When you are giving input the gyro disables in a sense. Its for when you accelerate and your not giving input it does it for you till it detects your inputs. Same with heli and plane gyros.

What can happen is someone has the gain to high and it freaks out on them. But if gain is tuned it is good.

Agreed though on my bashers i don't even enable it.

 

[KnowAir]

Gyro's don't override you. When you are giving input the gyro disables. Its for when you accelerate and your not giving input it does it for you till it detects your inputs. Same with heli and plane gyros.

What can happen is someone has the gain to high and it freaks out on them. But if gain is tuned it is good.

Agreed though on my bashers i don't even enable it.

Makes sense, as with everything these days, it likely is delivered in full retard mode. I did briefly look at the AVC programming instructions, then decided I'd rather bash than read. Tossed the instructions in the manuals drawer and turned the dial all the way down for AVC. Haven't gone back to it since.