Notorious 5s battery???

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Makes sense, as with everything these days, it likely is delivered in full retard mode. I did briefly look at the AVC programming instructions, then decided I'd rather bash than read. Tossed the instructions in the manuals drawer and turned the dial all the way down for AVC. Haven't gone back to it since.🤷‍♂️
Hell ya man haha. My only need for a gyro is on the tail of my Heli's. Any other vehicle absolutely does not need it. Its just a luxury item for us haha.
 
Hell ya man haha. My only need for a gyro is on the tail of my Heli's. Any other vehicle absolutely does not need it. Its just a luxury item for us haha.
Different animal there.. I never tried flying. I hear Heli's are tricky.
On a different note, I was looking at my Zeee 2s packs last night, looks like each cell has a tab coming out of it, which then connects to the next cell. The tabs are stamped or spot welded together, ever have any luck seperating and reattaching them? They definitely look cheap and intended to be tossed instead of reworked. Still trying to get change from a penny I am..🤣
 
Different animal there.. I never tried flying. I hear Heli's are tricky.
On a different note, I was looking at my Zeee 2s packs last night, looks like each cell has a tab coming out of it, which then connects to the next cell. The tabs are stamped or spot welded together, ever have any luck seperating and reattaching them? They definitely look cheap and intended to be tossed instead of reworked. Still trying to get change from a penny I am..🤣
np man, sometimes we need to save cash, esp around Christmas time. That tab that connects cells together can be cut right in half with scissors, half is still plenty to solder your Pos/Neg xt60/xt90 wire to. Just don't mix up what is Pos/Neg haha.
 
np man, sometimes we need to save cash, esp around Christmas time. That tab that connects cells together can be cut right in half with scissors, half is still plenty to solder your Pos/Neg xt60/xt90 wire to. Just don't mix up what is Pos/Neg haha.
Thanks!! I'll give it a go. What's the worst..nevermind!😉🤣🤣
 
Thanks!! I'll give it a go. What's the worst..nevermind!😉🤣🤣
i cut and keep as much tabs as possible for the remaining good cell. sometimes you have to extract a cell in the middle of the pack and you will still have live cells flailing about. This is the time you want to use marker pens to indicate polarity properly, and plenty of kapton tape to insulate insulate insulate as you go.

The weird thing I recently realised is that I have an extracted cell that was bad going to 0.xx V but after a few weeks on my work desk it "recovered" back to 3.8V. I have half a mind to check the true remaining capacity and voltage at load...but I'm just too darned lazy.
 
i cut and keep as much tabs as possible for the remaining good cell. sometimes you have to extract a cell in the middle of the pack and you will still have live cells flailing about. This is the time you want to use marker pens to indicate polarity properly, and plenty of kapton tape to insulate insulate insulate as you go.

The weird thing I recently realised is that I have an extracted cell that was bad going to 0.xx V but after a few weeks on my work desk it "recovered" back to 3.8V. I have half a mind to check the true remaining capacity and voltage at load...but I'm just too darned lazy.
Good call on marking polarity, I can easily see things getting switched up..
I have this 2s pack peeled out of the hard case, I figured I'd check resistance with an ohmmeter, I only get continuity from one cell? I gotta revisit, maybe I'm checking in the wrong place..
I am at a point with batteries where I'm really weighing out the benefits of buying cheap vs quality packs. Thus far, I have been pretty much all low priced, but I do have a couple of "good" batteries. They are Spektrum 4s 5000 100c, and Dynamite 2s 5000 50c. Now I know most say they suck, but they do deliver longer run times and better punch than my amazon crap. I find the amazon batteries, which range from brands I can't pronounce in english to CNHL, deliver pretty well for about a year, maybe more sometimes, then just go south with high ir.. meanwhile, my brother's Spektrum and TRX batteries are still delivering a pretty good return after nearly 3 years. He has never storage charged or maintained any routine. Run to LVC and put em away..🤔
 
Good call on marking polarity, I can easily see things getting switched up..
I have this 2s pack peeled out of the hard case, I figured I'd check resistance with an ohmmeter, I only get continuity from one cell? I gotta revisit, maybe I'm checking in the wrong place..
I am at a point with batteries where I'm really weighing out the benefits of buying cheap vs quality packs. Thus far, I have been pretty much all low priced, but I do have a couple of "good" batteries. They are Spektrum 4s 5000 100c, and Dynamite 2s 5000 50c. Now I know most say they suck, but they do deliver longer run times and better punch than my amazon crap. I find the amazon batteries, which range from brands I can't pronounce in english to CNHL, deliver pretty well for about a year, maybe more sometimes, then just go south with high ir.. meanwhile, my brother's Spektrum and TRX batteries are still delivering a pretty good return after nearly 3 years. He has never storage charged or maintained any routine. Run to LVC and put em away..🤔
I don’t have long enough experience with Lipos for RC, have only been back for a few months. Considering almost all cells are made by only a handful of OEMs in China. Idk how brand / cost is employed to ensure quality cells. Of course those very high end brand names will work harder to preserve their name by ensuring high quality cells but the likelihood of the OEM improving their own quality for everyone is also very high.
What I do know is IR cannot be just measured without load with a multimeter. You need to deduce it at load or during charging.
 
Yeah, speed running can get dicey I bet. I've used the gyro receivers and I see the benefits, but honestly I just don't like the fact that it over rides my inputs. Even turned all the way down, still there. I just assume live without. I'm an old dog I guess, LOL.
You obviously have much wheel time. I say the same.
I rather feel no Steering assistance at all. I can always tell when the Gyro takes over. Even dialed with the slightest Gain adjustments, it's there. Except for my speed runners, I disable the Gyro during the Bind process.
 
Time Fussing over dialing in a Gyro gets silly for simple bashing. Just want to throw her down a blast it.:)
 
I know 5s is safe on a 6s rig but I had no idea.

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I wonder why you want a 5S in the first place. Why trust a company which does something everyone else does not and you have to change electronics for it. Means they just do it for the money. Is also called scam. They should first talk to the ones who make ESC and motors instead of just throw a battery on the market. But hey if you feel to go that way do it.
 
I wonder why you want a 5S in the first place. Why trust a company which does something everyone else does not and you have to change electronics for it. Means they just do it for the money. Is also called scam. They should first talk to the ones who make ESC and motors instead of just throw a battery on the market. But hey if you feel to go that way do it.
I don't want one. Not gonna get one. It was just a post. That's all. I was looking at getting a new 6s battery & ran across it.
Made for an interesting 4 pages of comments though.
 
I wonder why you want a 5S in the first place. Why trust a company which does something everyone else does not and you have to change electronics for it. Means they just do it for the money. Is also called scam. They should first talk to the ones who make ESC and motors instead of just throw a battery on the market. But hey if you feel to go that way do it.
Because sometimes ya feel like a nut, sometimes ya don't..
I've combined 2 and 3s to run 5s many times. Actually perfect sometimes.. Kaiju is perfect on 5s IMO. 4s can be underwhelming and 6s is overkill..
 
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I wonder why you want a 5S in the first place.
What’s wrong with 5S? I want one. Perfect for lightweight 1/8 cars. Typhon, MT410, Talion, etc. And I use mostly Castle ESCs which all support 5S just like any other battery.
 
What’s wrong with 5S? I want one. Perfect for lightweight 1/8 cars. Typhon, MT410, Talion, etc. And I use mostly Castle ESCs which all support 5S just like any other battery.
That's awesome!
 
5s is surely uncommon in ground rc's, but it's no different than 2 vs 3 vs 4s..there's a happy medium between power and weight for any rc/situation. Sometimes the sweet spot is 5s.
FWIW, the HW WP08BL150 has had 5s capability for years, just plug one in and it automatically picks up on 5s. The G2 Max 8 and 6 also have 5s profiles programmed into them. G1 versions of the Max esc's did not, which requires LVC to be disabled, otherwise the 5s pack is read as 6s. Which will trigger LVC as soon as the battery comes down from full charge.. no bueno. The workaround is using lipo alarms with LVC disabled in the esc.
 
5s is surely uncommon in ground rc's, but it's no different than 2 vs 3 vs 4s..there's a happy medium between power and weight for any rc/situation. Sometimes the sweet spot is 5s.
FWIW, the HW WP08BL150 has had 5s capability for years, just plug one in and it automatically picks up on 5s. The G2 Max 8 and 6 also have 5s profiles programmed into them. G1 versions of the Max esc's did not, which requires LVC to be disabled, otherwise the 5s pack is read as 6s. Which will trigger LVC as soon as the battery comes down from full charge.. no bueno. The workaround is using lipo alarms with LVC disabled in the esc.
Yeah after watching this thread & a little digging it looks like 5s is more common to airplanes & heli & I guess big drones. But has a place in surface. I'm building a Kraton & the ESC I'm looking to get I believe supports 5s as well.
 
It's quite obvious by the lack of decent spec'd 5s packs that 5s isn't really popular. Most I've found are fairly low spec for ground rc's.
 
It's quite obvious by the lack of decent spec'd 5s packs that 5s isn't really popular. Most I've found are fairly low spec for ground rc's.
I think that's why so many people just use a 2s and a 3s in series or make their own.
 
I think that's why so many people just use a 2s and a 3s in series or make their own.
Could try that. How close of a mah & C rating do they need to be or does it matter?
 
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