A-ARM BUSHINGS

[rgfast]

I've been getting a lot wear in pivot pin area of a-arms which I know is normal wear and tear, arms are in great shape other than the slop at the pivots pins. This being said my thought was why not bush them SO I DID!!!
First was to order some brass tubing to do the job, found this on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z9BHSY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with o.d. of tube being 5.00mm I used drill bit size of 4.97mm for a good press fit

after this I cut tubing for width of arm to be installed in

once tube is cut I used needle nose pliers to ream ends then using bench vise press tubing into arm

I'm hoping this adds a lot of new life to my a-arms, movement is super smooth and the slop is gone hope this helps some in the future. I was really happy how it worked out for me and have a great day everyone!!

 

[jondilly1974]

I've been getting a lot wear in pivot pin area of a-arms which I know is normal wear and tear, arms are in great shape other than the slop at the pivots pins. This being said my thought was why not bush them SO I DID!!!
First was to order some brass tubing to do the job, found this on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z9BHSY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with o.d. of tube being 5.00mm I used drill bit size of 4.97mm for a good press fit
View attachment 74217View attachment 74218
after this I cut tubing for width of arm to be installed in
View attachment 74219
once tube is cut I used needle nose pliers to ream ends then using bench vise press tubing into armView attachment 74221View attachment 74222View attachment 74223View attachment 74224View attachment 74225
I'm hoping this adds a lot of new life to my a-arms, movement is super smooth and the slop is gone hope this helps some in the future. I was really happy how it worked out for me and have a great day everyone!!

Good idea ?

 

[rgfast]

Works great on rear spindle assembly as well, also need to note I'm doing this on 6s platform

 

[rgfast]

just wanted to update here that the brass bushings are working great so far and I installed them in a set RPM arms and WoW what a difference, all that slop they have even when new is gone and finally my Kraton 6s has responsive steering very impressed with this simple mod. I had the Talion and Kraton on my backyard track over the weekend and the steering as well if not better on the Kraton grantd the Kraton does have new HR bell crank as the stock was wore slap out

 

[Mechanicos]

Works great on rear spindle assembly as well, also need to note I'm doing this on 6s platform View attachment 74263

What size bushings did you use for this one?

 

[rgfast]

they are all the same size on 6s cars

 

[PrerunninF150]

I literally just asked about this possibility in another thread. Glad to see it is working out, looking to do this to my upper arms.

 

[rgfast]

I literally just asked about this possibility in another thread. Glad to see it is working out, looking to do this to my upper arms.

I've totally rebuilt my Kraton three times since adding the bushings and can say they are just as tight as they were when I installed them. During rebuilds I clean them out add a light coat of speed grease and put them back together.

 

[VDVC-RC]

Awesome mod!

 

[Big Kid]

I personally machine some PEEK stubs @ 1/4" long and place counter bores in the ends of the arms pressing them in.
Far far longer lasting than anything brass sleeved & fit to shaft can be very close for a slop free fit.

 

[rgfast]

PEEK looks nice, but as HV/AC guy I have no idea what it actually is. Would this be something that average guy can purchase and install or would it be something that I would need a mill to machine pieces for installation?

 

[Big Kid]

It is a material that comes in the raw ... machining to size required.

 

[VDVC-RC]

View attachment 352139

How's the double servo saver set-up working for you? Is one locked up solid?

 

[Big Kid]

How's the double servo saver set-up working for you? Is one locked up solid?

Actually on the KRATON it DID NOT work out as the Servo mounted saver even with the included heavy spring was still too weak !!
as was the Savox servo .... Changing to the PowerHobby servo using a H.D. horn and then played with tension on the aftermarket in chassis saver to satisfaction.

 

[VDVC-RC]

View attachment 355559

Is that PEEK around the center diff output cups & front input cup too? If so that's a pretty good idea. Was looking for something similar to strengthen the drivetrain.

 

[Big Kid]

Is that PEEK around the center diff output cups & front input cup too? If so that's a pretty good idea. Was looking for something similar to strengthen the drivetrain.

The PEEK is used on nearly all the plain bearings threw out. Diff outputs at shaft & housing / A-arm pivots / Rear outer camber links / Thrust washers / Steering link / Ackerman plate etc ..)
Around the drive cups ACETAL was used in reducing dirt wear on pins & ability to hold a random squirt of Wax chain lube ( Krytech ) and some bling ( yellow )

If wanting Radial Strength added to drive cups, Peek would be a decent choice but not great as it would require fairly heavy wall thickness.
Machined 7075 T-6 aluminum would be IMO the better choice for that. Light press fit with a bonder

 

[Rottster]

@rgfast , @Big Kid After seeing how much slop there is in the upper A-Arms of my Kraton 6s EXB Roller after installing the Scorched front hubs, I was severely disappointed, lol. I didn't do a search at that time and approached the issue in a different manner... 1mm thick wall 304 stainless tubing. 6mm OD, 4mm ID. I'll post how it all works out.... Negligible slop and though I do have a .0005 indicator available, I don't have a granite table and V-blocks for something this small at home, lol.

@Big Kid, I read up on PEEK and it's some pretty amazing stuff especially if carbon fiber is introduced. Fantastic solution but unless you start your own biz, the ability to machine those parts is pretty much unobtanium to even the most crafty hobbyist. I have guys at work who could pull that off and make a CNC program, but the "Powers that Be" have cracked down on "X" shop orders.

BTW, good on you Brother! That's some seriously awesome top level stuff!

 

[Rottster]

OK, so went with a #1 drill (.228") on my drill press and cut the tube just a "hair" long on my band saw, dressed it and pressed in just like @rgfast did with a vise but with a little care a small ball peen would suffice. I have a 20 ton press, but that would be a little much, lol.

 

[Rottster]

YT links are not happening in the order I want.... so I'll try this again. Before the bushings.

After the bushings

So there you have it, take it what you will and you can still shim for caster and it might actually make a difference. With the original amount of slop, you could shim it the moon with zero actual change.

 

[Rottster]

So, after doing the front uppers, I see a bunch of slop in the lowers... I bushed the "passenger" side and sure enough the hinge pin doesn't fall in. "Hmmm, did I leave a burr?" Nope, lower hinge pin is bent just by a few thousands of an inch... Drivers side is fine, weird. I'd never had known if weren't for the closer tolerances of the bushing.