Bambu Labs A1 with AMS

[Tex Koder]

Was just look at the FAQ;
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/manual/faq

2. What Filaments can A1 Print?


A: 1. Low-temperature filaments such as PLA, PETG, TPU, and support materials for PLA and PETG (Support for PLA, PVA, HIPS, etc.).
2. Conventional high-temperature filaments such as ABS, ASA, PC, PA, PA-CF/GF, PET-CF/GF, PPA-CF/GF, etc.
Kind Reminder:
The standard nozzle is made of stainless steel. When printing filaments containing hard particles (CF, GF, etc.) such as PLA-CF/GF, PLA Glow-in-the-dark, PETG-CF/GF and PAHT-CF/GF, it is necessary to replace the nozzle with hardened steel to prevent excessive wear.
Due to the A1's open-frame design and lower chamber temperature, there is a risk of reduced interlayer strength and increased warping for large-sized models and models with high filling density when using conventional high-temperature filaments such as ABS, ASA, PC, PA, PA-CF/GF, PET-CF/GF, PPA-CF/GF, etc. on the A1. However, these high-temperature filaments can be used on the A1 to print small-sized models with low filling density. The printing results may vary depending on the filaments' dry and wet state, the characteristics of the model itself, printing parameters, and the ambient temperature.For more details, please check here.

Interesting.

It looks to have some potential..
Replace nozzle, put printer in an enclosure, And mod the bed to be able to go up to 100°.

 

[Dutch]

It looks to have some potential..
Replace nozzle, put printer in an enclosure, And mod the bed to be able to go up to 100°.

The bed already goes to 100c, there is a mistake somewhere in the documentation. A few of the reviews have pointed it out.

What is the max hotend/heat bed temperature of A1?​

The max hotend temperature is 300 ℃, and the max heatbed temperature is 100 ℃.

From the FAQ

 

[Tex Koder]

 

[smirkracing]

Curious to hear from the experts: now that a few months have gone by and Creality and others have had a chance to catch up (or try to catch up) how is Bambu faring? Still the best by a wide margin for multi-color printing? I am thinking of getting one (upgrading from ender s3 so this is a big jump for me) and looking for advice before pulling the trigger. Thanks!!

 

[King blitz]

I can't see video

 

[Tex Koder]

I can't see video

Guess those YT Overlords don't want us to see..
.

Curious to hear from the experts: now that a few months have gone by and Creality and others have had a chance to catch up (or try to catch up) how is Bambu faring? Still the best by a wide margin for multi-color printing? I am thinking of getting one (upgrading from ender s3 so this is a big jump for me) and looking for advice before pulling the trigger. Thanks!!

If you Need AMS then Bambu is still the only one in town that comes stock out of the box with that feature without having to modify or jimmy rig it.

But if you're just needing "faster" bed slinger then Elegoo Neptune 4 is an alternative option..

 

[King blitz]

Guess those YT Overlords don't want us to see..
.





If you Need AMS then Bambu is still the only one in town that comes stock out of the box with that feature without having to modify or jimmy rig it.

But if you're just needing "faster" bed slinger then Elegoo Neptune 4 is an alternative option..

I suppose it's ok that I can't see.i know jack poop about printing.alls ik is I like watching things being done by the printers so this thread really isn't meant for me .I don't own a printer .I'm sure they are expensive and I can't offord to fall down another rabbit hole..I'll just silently watch you guys Converse about this stuff..

 

[dure16]

Curious to hear from the experts: now that a few months have gone by and Creality and others have had a chance to catch up (or try to catch up) how is Bambu faring? Still the best by a wide margin for multi-color printing? I am thinking of getting one (upgrading from ender s3 so this is a big jump for me) and looking for advice before pulling the trigger. Thanks!!

How important is multi-material to you? Will you print mostly easy filaments like PLA/PETG or do you plan to explore more difficult filaments like ABS, PC, nylon, etc.?

 

[smirkracing]

How important is multi-material to you? Will you print mostly easy filaments like PLA/PETG or do you plan to explore more difficult filaments like ABS, PC, nylon, etc.?

So far I have only printed in the easy materials. I mostly print toys for the kids and also non-structural RC parts (receiver boxes, mounts for a GPS, other easy items).

I would love to get into stronger materials so I could print parts that are more core to my vehicles. Some simple examples would be mounts for links on solid axle rigs, but of course it could get a lot more interesting from there.

So in short yes, I am very curious about more sophisticated materials that can result in stronger parts for more demanding applications.

 

[Tex Koder]

So far I have only printed in the easy materials. I mostly print toys for the kids and also non-structural RC parts (receiver boxes, mounts for a GPS, other easy items).

I would love to get into stronger materials so I could print parts that are more core to my vehicles. Some simple examples would be mounts for links on solid axle rigs, but of course it could get a lot more interesting from there.

So in short yes, I am very curious about more sophisticated materials that can result in stronger parts for more demanding applications.

Then you'll want to look into enclosed printers where heat can be controlled and maintained better than open bed slingers.

Creality K1 ,K1Max
Bambu X1C ,P1S

 

[dure16]

So far I have only printed in the easy materials. I mostly print toys for the kids and also non-structural RC parts (receiver boxes, mounts for a GPS, other easy items).

I would love to get into stronger materials so I could print parts that are more core to my vehicles. Some simple examples would be mounts for links on solid axle rigs, but of course it could get a lot more interesting from there.

So in short yes, I am very curious about more sophisticated materials that can result in stronger parts for more demanding applications.

Okay. An enclosure is necessary for those difficult filaments as they tend to warp during printing. Passive heating, which relies on the heatbed for heat generation, works okay. Active heating, which uses a dedicated heater core, works much better for those difficult filaments.

As someone who muscled through a lot of PC and nylon printing with a passive enclosure, I can tell you it totally sucked. So many failed or dimensionally-tweaked prints. I could make it work for small stuff but any long/flat file was a no-go.

I now use a Qidi X-Plus 3. It has active heating and I can choose the chamber temperature right within the slicer settings. It’s a game changer and has made printing ABS/PC/nylon almost as easy as PLA/PETG.

 

[Moirae]

So far I have only printed in the easy materials. I mostly print toys for the kids and also non-structural RC parts (receiver boxes, mounts for a GPS, other easy items).

I would love to get into stronger materials so I could print parts that are more core to my vehicles. Some simple examples would be mounts for links on solid axle rigs, but of course it could get a lot more interesting from there.

So in short yes, I am very curious about more sophisticated materials that can result in stronger parts for more demanding applications.

Go spoil yourself and get a bambu.

 

[dure16]

Go spoil yourself and get a bambu.

Definitely more user-friendly than a Qidi. Better for a first-time printer.

Bambu does offer a version of the X1 with heated chamber that I would love to own. It's just a wee bit pricey:

 

[smirkracing]

Does the X1 Carbon (https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/x1-carbon-combo) have a heated chamber? It is obviously enclosed but I don't see in the specs the word "heated".

Thanks!

 

[dure16]

Does the X1 Carbon (https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/x1-carbon-combo) have a heated chamber? It is obviously enclosed but I don't see in the specs the word "heated".

Thanks!

No, it does not.

 

[smirkracing]

No, it does not.

So, how important is a heated chamber? I am already jumping from ~$300 printers (Ender S3 range) to the $1500 (Bambu X1). Do I need to look at the $2500 price point with the heated chamber? What would I gain for the extra $1000? I am only printing at home for personal needs, mostly small RC parts and various objects around the house, for the kids, etc.

 

[Dutch]

If you really want to print ABS, PC, nylon, etc. then yes you need a heated and filtered chamber.

 

[Tex Koder]

So, how important is a heated chamber? I am already jumping from ~$300 printers (Ender S3 range) to the $1500 (Bambu X1). Do I need to look at the $2500 price point with the heated chamber? What would I gain for the extra $1000? I am only printing at home for personal needs, mostly small RC parts and various objects around the house, for the kids, etc.

Actually you could go with either-
Bambu P1S
Creality K1

And DIY a manual heater..
IF you are a tweaker and handy with a soldering iron.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/diy-stand-alone-chamber-heater.66624/

 

[Moirae]

If you really want to print ABS, PC, nylon, etc. then yes you need a heated and filtered chamber.

Apparently the x1c can handle all of those filaments without much trouble.

 

[dure16]

If you really want to print ABS, PC, nylon, etc. then yes you need a heated and filtered chamber.

Agree.

Many printers technically support those filaments as pointed out by @Moirae. The minimum requirement to include on a spec sheet is simply that the nozzle and heatbed can get hot enough.

However, those filaments are much more difficult to print without a heated chamber.

The Qidi X-Plus 3 has heated chamber, larger build plate, and otherwise similar specs to the X1C (except no AMS).