Outcast Calling on the 3d printer guys

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You could make some from lexan pretty easily.
Yup, but everyone with these trucks is going to need them, and not all the people who do/or will own the truck are as mechaniclly inclined..3d'd, they'd be cheaper than any other fix you could do, and maybe it will give a fellow enthusiast a chance to use his printer for something he enjoys👍👍
I'll take that challenge!

Do you have any photos of those rear arms (preferably with a ruler next to them)
Hold please...
 
ESC cage for the when the ESC mounts break would be useful as well.
 
Can you work with that? That's off the left rear arm, looking from the front of the vehicle if that makes sense.. A couple mm thick would probably be plenty, but you're the expert

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And the screw holes are at 25mm, 60mm, and 95mm from left to right on that picture, sorry, forgot that..and no clue if that's how you spelled radiused, but it's how I do
 
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Can you work with that? That's off the left rear arm, looking from the front of the vehicle if that makes sense.. A couple mm thick would probably be plenty, but you're the expert

View attachment 239697

Thank you greatly.
That'll give me a something to start with ,for sure.

But, it really helps to see what's around the suspension arms too, so I know how much pitch I need to make the edges (not just rounding the corners) to clear the wheel AND more importantly the side of the Rear bulkhead when the arms swings Up to its maximum compression..
So a photo or two -
1. View directly from the rear of the vehicle. (Looking straight on at one of the arms.)
2. Perspective view from the top-front angle.
3. Bottom view? (if there's any protrusions I should know about..)
 
Ok, I took all measurements at full droop and full compression, and also took into account the clearance on everything, measurements I gave you are the largest it can be to clear all of the above, but I will get more pics as soon as I can (y) (y)
 
Ok, I took all measurements at full droop and full compression, and also took into account the clearance on everything, measurements I gave you are the largest it can be to clear all of the above, but I will get more pics as soon as I can (y) (y)

Understood.

Okay, then I'll start designing based on these specs.
Thank you sir.
 
I took all my measurements with tire off, and clearance to the body is a non issue, it's not even close. That sway bar screw is the only thing sticking out of the arm(bottom view), let me know what else you need

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And I have no problem being a guinea pig, I can final trim whatever you send me and give you new measurements if needed, im just glad to be part of something
 
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Yup, but everyone with these trucks is going to need them, and not all the people who do/or will own the truck are as mechaniclly inclined..3d'd, they'd be cheaper than any other fix you could do, and maybe it will give a fellow enthusiast a chance to use his printer for something he enjoys👍👍

My point was just that if you or anyone needs them quickly, 3d printing isn't the only solution. And lexan is pretty cheap, as well as durable. I have 3d printers but will still likely just make some out of lexan.
 
@DLK83

Thank you for all the pics!
That really helps, gives me a better visual of the area I'm working with..

I'll get something drafted tonight..
AFTER our girls go to bed and my wife & I get done watching HotD 😁👍
 
My point was just that if you or anyone needs them quickly, 3d printing isn't the only solution. And lexan is pretty cheap, as well as durable. I have 3d printers but will still likely just make some out of lexan.
I get it, and totally agree.. I've made tons of rc stuff, and I was going to do these out of some thin scrap aluminum, but Tex just did some shock tower guards for me at very reasonable price, so I'll let him do his thing
 
Good morning y'all,
So here's a rough draft of the mudguard based on the dimensions given.
Currently at just 1mm thick.. I'll adjust the thickness once the 'final' shape is locked down.

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I'm wondering if the vertical edges (40mm near the bulkhead and 35mm at the wheel) needs to be canted in by a couple of degrees?
For both aesthetics reasons (and functionality.. to avoid bumping the bulkhead or rubbing against the wheel rim.)

Your thoughts/critiques?


.
 
By canted in at both ends do you mean 35mm outside edge tipped towards the car, and inside 40mm edge tipped towards outside of car? If so, it definitely could on the outside(35mm end), it would be for aesthetics only though. The inside could also be canted a little, but you start to lose coverage of the cvd, which is what it's all for in the first place. I tried to make my measurements give the most coverage they could throughout the entire range of travel, so I'm thinking the inside edge looks great in your diagram
 
By canted in at both ends do you mean 35mm outside edge tipped towards the car, and inside 40mm edge tipped towards outside of car? If so, it definitely could on the outside(35mm end), it would be for aesthetics only though.

That is correct.
Okay, I'll make the adjustment and see..

The inside could also be canted a little, but you start to lose coverage of the cvd, which is what it's all for in the first place. I tried to make my measurements give the most coverage they could throughout the entire range of travel,

Understood.

I'll make some tweaks and see how y'all like it.
It's all concept at this moment, so might as well brainstorm the heck out of it.
Just some options.

Good communication can only make the design better.

so I'm thinking the inside edge looks great in your diagram

👍
 
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