Defiant’s XMAXX Build

[Defiant]

Correct they’re just Traxxas washers. I’ve had a bad experience pulling screws through the plastic chassis before. Damn I need to finish this build!! All I really need to do is solder connectors..

 

[Armarookie43]

Tra7759

Yeah I just found them thanks. It might help

Correct they’re just Traxxas washers. I’ve had a bad experience pulling screws through the plastic chassis before. Damn I need to finish this build!! All I really need to do is solder connectors..

I messed up the chassis already by putting the damn bolts too tight. Hopefully I don't have to change it and instead use these washers. Every time I jump, my stock motor comes loose because of that.

 

[Armarookie43]

I never realised how much plastic was on a Xmaxx ?? plastmaXX

This is what I'm talking about. Plastic vs metal. These steering links and bolts came from my K8S. Too heavy. I don't have those kinds of issues with the lighter almost all plastic xmaxx.

 

[ho lee chit]

Awesome build

 

[Defiant]

I’m back from hiatus, I’ve actually been building a large gas powered rc airplane and collective pitch heli to practice 3D flight. I took a break from RC to play with real cars, I was modifying my diesel truck then started a neon srt4 drag car build and lately just been driving around in my charger.

I actually finished my xmaxx last summer here are a couple pics

On its maiden drive one of the diffs started skipping and clicking within the first 5 minutes. After 10 minutes of medium throttle it could barely go forward. And it was SLOW, the belt drive ratio topped it out at 30-35mph roughly. So I lost motivation and put it in storage until now

I started by deciding to ditch the belt drive and go back to simple M1 gears. Arrma D bore ftw!!

I saw that RPM now finally makes front axle carriers with bigger bearings, they used to only make rears so I had to get the fronts to match

My new approach is to REDUCE WEIGHT and simplify. I removed the TBR control arm skid plates, they’re useless and heavy, I converted to smaller 1/5 scale wheels to have more rim/tire options. If I bust a tire I don’t have to deal with glue ever again

Going with GPM Cush drive eliminator, the belt drive was actually a lot heavier than I remembered it being, I figure gears are more efficient in regard to losses. I got two brand new front and rear diff assemblies just to rule out any problems there along with a center diff rebuild kit and a 6S xmaxx plastic center spool just in case I want to go to that

Come to think of it I never broke a GDS hardened spur gear, I only broke the cheapo Traxxas gears. I switched to M1.5 gears which were so loud and heavy, and then I went to belt drive to reduce the problems the M1.5 gears gave me. Turns out M1 is good enough and spending $$$ on custom machined parts is just dumb.

How it sits currently, I redid the wiring for my battery cables now it’s cleaner, shorter and stronger, I tucked the wires as much as I can, the max5 is missing the fan because I’m waiting on my YR signal 10 to arrive. The motor is crooked because it’s not bolted in, I have to grind down the shaft a little to fit the Arrma pinion. My rear shocks are Baja 5B 1/5 scale shocks I wanted to test them out, I accidentally ordered 2 instead of 4

I’m gonna dye the body and control arms black and will have to order new lipos, mine sat so long they puffed up. After I finish this I want to build a Kraton 8S, I miss my K6S all the time, that car was a tank

 

[Matt05]

More info on the new wheels/tires please. Appear to be Rovan?

 

[Defiant]

More info on the new wheels/tires please. Appear to be Rovan?

Proline Desperado rims, rovan excavator tires, DDM beadlocks

 

[Armarookie43]

I’m back from hiatus, I’ve actually been building a large gas powered rc airplane and collective pitch heli to practice 3D flight. I took a break from RC to play with real cars, I was modifying my diesel truck then started a neon srt4 drag car build and lately just been driving around in my charger.

I actually finished my xmaxx last summer here are a couple pics
View attachment 185444

View attachment 185445

View attachment 185446

On its maiden drive one of the diffs started skipping and clicking within the first 5 minutes. After 10 minutes of medium throttle it could barely go forward. And it was SLOW, the belt drive ratio topped it out at 30-35mph roughly. So I lost motivation and put it in storage until now

View attachment 185447

I started by deciding to ditch the belt drive and go back to simple M1 gears. Arrma D bore ftw!!

View attachment 185448

I saw that RPM now finally makes front axle carriers with bigger bearings, they used to only make rears so I had to get the fronts to match

My new approach is to REDUCE WEIGHT and simplify. I removed the TBR control arm skid plates, they’re useless and heavy, I converted to smaller 1/5 scale wheels to have more rim/tire options. If I bust a tire I don’t have to deal with glue ever again

View attachment 185449

View attachment 185456

View attachment 185457
View attachment 185458

View attachment 185460

Going with GPM Cush drive eliminator, the belt drive was actually a lot heavier than I remembered it being, I figure gears are more efficient in regard to losses. I got two brand new front and rear diff assemblies just to rule out any problems there along with a center diff rebuild kit and a 6S xmaxx plastic center spool just in case I want to go to that

View attachment 185462

Come to think of it I never broke a GDS hardened spur gear, I only broke the cheapo Traxxas gears. I switched to M1.5 gears which were so loud and heavy, and then I went to belt drive to reduce the problems the M1.5 gears gave me. Turns out M1 is good enough and spending $$$ on custom machined parts is just dumb.

View attachment 185463

How it sits currently, I redid the wiring for my battery cables now it’s cleaner, shorter and stronger, I tucked the wires as much as I can, the max5 is missing the fan because I’m waiting on my YR signal 10 to arrive. The motor is crooked because it’s not bolted in, I have to grind down the shaft a little to fit the Arrma pinion. My rear shocks are Baja 5B 1/5 scale shocks I wanted to test them out, I accidentally ordered 2 instead of 4

View attachment 185464

View attachment 185465

I’m gonna dye the body and control arms black and will have to order new lipos, mine sat so long they puffed up. After I finish this I want to build a Kraton 8S, I miss my K6S all the time, that car was a tank

Nice very nice. The people that have tried the front RPM carries say that they break easier than stock. Now Traxxas makes their own with the bigger inner bearings (same as the rear rpm inner bearings) I already installed them and they are working great. Just in case you have trouble with the RPM ones :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-77...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

[Defiant]

Nice very nice. The people that have tried the front RPM carries say that they break easier than stock. Now Traxxas makes their own with the bigger inner bearings (same as the rear rpm inner bearings) I already installed them and they are working great. Just in case you have trouble with the RPM ones :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-77...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

These fronts use the rear rpm bearing specs? Interesting

 

[Armarookie43]

These fronts use the rear rpm bearing specs? Interesting

Yeah they do. I guess Traxxas got tired of people complaining about blown inner bearings. The inner bearings were just too damn thin! Usually one run, and they are done.

 

[Defiant]

Yeah they do. I guess Traxxas got tired of people complaining about blown inner bearings. The inner bearings were just too damn thin! Usually one run, and they are done.

Yeah I guess I’m just shocked that Traxxas of all companies would update something. I mean it’s good for us but weird to see, maybe they’re tired of Arrma eating their lunch they have to actually try to retain fans

 

[Defiant]

Haven’t posted in a long time, but the last thing I did to this truck was rebuild the center diff as the gears were worn out, I’m going to actually take it apart again to put thicker fluid in it. I also took out my “old” rear diff and put in a brand new OEM assembly from JRC.

This is the new front diff assembly I’ll also be putting in from JRC, just trying to rule out any potential problems

I also got this reefs servo to try out, still waiting on my WFO servo horn and Traxxas adapter for it.

I got these overpriced proline shock parts purely for bling factor. The shock shafts are thicker though which is a plus.

Ditching my marred aluminum stub axles for these steel units from Brett. Taking my axles out is such a pain because the bearings always get stuck to the damaged stub ends so this will resolve that. Plus black > red

And finally going with the widemaxx kit in black of course. When I saw this I had to have it, nice to be as wide as a K8. This kit is cheapest from JRC if anyone else is looking to save money.

That’s it for now, time to wrench. Waiting on some parts from vitavon and M2C!

 

[Defiant]

Looks so good.. this may end up a shelf queen

Can’t believe how much wider it is doing only one side. I take my time

 

[Defiant]

This is what I meant when I said my stub axle is chewed up. The bearing gets stuck and I have to put it in a vice and tap it out with a mallet every time.

 

[Defiant]

Front diff is out, I regret ever greasing the drive cups, the grease gets all over the suspension even with axle boots.

The new diff is in and all the grease will be in the case this time.

Found out I was missing 2 retaining bolts for my lower front hinge pins. Woops

 

[KnowAir]

@Defiant Which wheel nuts were you using here? Look like rcmonster?

That's alotta grease on those ring n opinions! Wow! A mess..all it needs is enough to coat the gears?

 

[Defiant]

Which wheel nuts were you using here? Look like rcmonster?

Yes sir they are

 

[KnowAir]

Yes sir they are

Thanks. Got a set of 8s backflips for my X. Looking at those or maybe Just bash it nuts.. seems the backflip backspacing cause the wheels to run the arms tho..
"Rub" the arms.
By the way, your X looks good

 

[Defiant]

Well it’s definitely wider. I ran out of 50wt shock oil so the rears are dry and sagging

Not sure how I feel about the stance with these wheels….

Thanks. Got a set of 8s backflips for my X. Looking at those or maybe Just bash it nuts.. seems the backflip backspacing cause the wheels to run the arms tho..
"Rub" the arms.
By the way, your X looks good

Thanks! Yeah I want to run the backflips too but it seems you need extended hubs to stop them from rubbing. They’re only 20ish grams per wheel heavier than stock

 

[KnowAir]

View attachment 204616

Well it’s definitely wider. I ran out of 50wt shock oil so the rears are dry and sagging

View attachment 204617

View attachment 204618

View attachment 204619
Not sure how I feel about the stance with these wheels….

Thanks! Yeah I want to run the backflips too but it seems you need extended hubs to stop them from rubbing. They’re only 20ish grams per wheel heavier than stock

It's hard to find a tire/wheel combo that "looks" as good as stock without either costing a fortune, or being too heavy.. I agree, not digging the look of those rovans on there.
Even the backflips look funny once the axles are extended..
My biggest gripe with stock TRX is the wheels..they're so weak and thin. The lack of any tire sidewall on the inside doesn't help either..no cushion when the truck hits a rock. Then the disappearing foams..they just turn to dust..