Outcast Differential/pinion grease recommended.

[Armarookie43]

In the process of ordering a new rear differential since the rear pinion/diff was destroyed. Any recommendations on what grease to use? Regular red auto grease? Thanks!

 

[Camaroboy383]

In the process of ordering a new rear differential since the rear pinion/diff was destroyed. Any recommendations on what grease to use? Regular red auto grease? Thanks!

I use marine grease.. holds up very well...

if you havnt already shimmed the diffs I would recommend it highly.. they are Damn near bulletproof when shimmed.. just have to keep an eye on the pinion bearings.. that should be part of your routine maintenance anyway..

Alden

 

[olds97_lss]

I use the lucas red-n-tacky. Seems to adhere well to the gears and not get a path cut through it like basic axle/bearing grease does.

I think many use lithium based grease as well.

 

[adidas303]

I use the lucas red-n-tacky. Seems to adhere well to the gears and not get a path cut through it like basic axle/bearing grease does.

I think many use lithium based grease as well.

Second, on this grease as well.

 

[Armarookie43]

I use marine grease.. holds up very well...

if you havnt already shimmed the diffs I would recommend it highly.. they are Damn near bulletproof when shimmed.. just have to keep an eye on the pinion bearings.. that should be part of your routine maintenance anyway..

Alden

So from what I understand is that every differential is different. Someone said spin tires and if they don't spin in reverse immediately, you need shimming? I'm not 100% sure about the shimming thing. Is there a master shimming post in here? Thanks.

 

[adidas303]

Maybe this could help some!? https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/shimming-input-gear.8749/#post-88946
Or at the least steer ya in the right direction?

 

[Camaroboy383]

So from what I understand is that every differential is different. Someone said spin tires and if they don't spin in reverse immediately, you need shimming? I'm not 100% sure about the shimming thing. Is there a master shimming post in here? Thanks.

That's not quite true... there are a number of variables that can cause the opposite wheel not to roll immediately, ie. Worn Output cups, dog bones, diff cup towers ect.... so that method is no good.. while the spider and planetary gears can be shimmed that's not really what we are after here...

We want to take the backlash out of the ring and pinion.. it's the most common failure point.. as you see from your stripped ring and pinion... alot of the failures come from worn out or exploded pinion or carrier bearings, letting the mesh of the gears fall away eventually jumping teeth and the rest is history...

I use 2 .2 shims on the carrier and a .1 or a .2 shim behind the pinion depending on the slop in the lash.. but honestly even the 2 .2 shims on the carrier will make them so much better... thier are several videos on youtube about shimming these..

 

[Armarookie43]

That's not quite true... there are a number of variables that can cause the opposite wheel not to roll immediately, ie. Worn Output cups, dog bones, diff cup towers ect.... so that method is no good.. while the spider and planetary gears can be shimmed that's not really what we are after here...

We want to take the backlash out of the ring and pinion.. it's the most common failure point.. as you see from your stripped ring and pinion... alot of the failures come from worn out or exploded pinion or carrier bearings, letting the mesh of the gears fall away eventually jumping teeth and the rest is history...

I use 2 .2 shims on the carrier and a .1 or a .2 shim behind the pinion depending on the slop in the lash.. but honestly even the 2 .2 shims on the carrier will make them so much better... thier are several videos on youtube about shimming these..

Great response. Is it possible to just drain the differential (front rear and middle) and just refill them with good new oil instead of rebuilding them completely? I ask because of my constant nagging wife and 3y old son that's always jumping on my back. I work 6 days a week and have a hard time doing maintenance on my rigs without someone getting mad. I might just pay the LHS to rebuild them. I'll take them out and bring them to their shop. Hehe. I'm not lazy, but my busy work schedule and family life is hard to balance along with this hobby. ?

 

[Clubin]

Great response. Is it possible to just drain the differential (front rear and middle) and just refill them with good new oil instead of rebuilding them completely? I ask because of my constant nagging wife and 3y old son that's always jumping on my back. I work 6 days a week and have a hard time doing maintenance on my rigs without someone getting mad. I might just pay the LHS to rebuild them. I'll take them out and bring them to their shop. Hehe. I'm not lazy, but my busy work schedule and family life is hard to balance along with this hobby. ?

Huh?

Isn’t doing the maintenance on these trucks half the fun?

It is for me.

 

[Phaedrus]

Great response. Is it possible to just drain the differential (front rear and middle) and just refill them with good new oil instead of rebuilding them completely? I ask because of my constant nagging wife and 3y old son that's always jumping on my back. I work 6 days a week and have a hard time doing maintenance on my rigs without someone getting mad. I might just pay the LHS to rebuild them. I'll take them out and bring them to their shop. Hehe. I'm not lazy, but my busy work schedule and family life is hard to balance along with this hobby. ?

The diffs are filled with "oil" that is closer to grease. It will not 'drain". I have to blow mine out with brake cleaner when I service them.

 

[Armarookie43]

Huh?

Isn’t doing the maintenance on these trucks half the fun?

It is for me.

Oh trust me, I love working on my RC vehicles. It's my significant others the ones that have an issue with it ?

 

[jondilly1974]

If you still have stock diff fluid, it will mostly pour out. You can simply top it off if that’s fine with you. Another option would be to buy a spare set of diffs from Jennys and toss them in and rebuild the originals when you have a spare moment.

 

[hobo]

i put three shims on gear side if i can and use lucas red n tacky on gears very rare i have any problems

 

[Camaroboy383]

Great response. Is it possible to just drain the differential (front rear and middle) and just refill them with good new oil instead of rebuilding them completely? I ask because of my constant nagging wife and 3y old son that's always jumping on my back. I work 6 days a week and have a hard time doing maintenance on my rigs without someone getting mad. I might just pay the LHS to rebuild them. I'll take them out and bring them to their shop. Hehe. I'm not lazy, but my busy work schedule and family life is hard to balance along with this hobby. ?

The short answer is no.. you will still have to pull the diff apart... the oils we use are far to thing to get out of the m3 hole in the factory cups.. you should probably also have some diff gaskets handy if you plan to dive in..

 

[PaPa Thorn]

I use the lucas red-n-tacky. Seems to adhere well to the gears and not get a path cut through it like basic axle/bearing grease does.

I think many use lithium based grease as well.

A path cut through it? How much are you packing in there?

I tried Lithium grease once and didn't like it. I'm using marine grease right now and so far no complaints. When I do have complaints I'll try red-n-tacky.

 

[Armarookie43]

If you still have stock diff fluid, it will mostly pour out. You can simply top it off if that’s fine with you. Another option would be to buy a spare set of diffs from Jennys and toss them in and rebuild the originals when you have a spare moment.

Yeah that's my best bet right there. Thanks.

 

[PaPa Thorn]

Yeah that's my best bet right there. Thanks.

My 2 cents? Rip the diff apart anyway and change the bearings for sealed bearings. You'll be doing it soon anyway. All bearings sealed or not will fail, but sealed are less likely to as soon. If you do it now hopefully you won't have to open it up again as soon.

 

[Armarookie43]

My 2 cents? Rip the diff apart anyway and change the bearings for sealed bearings. You'll be doing it soon anyway. All bearings sealed or not will fail, but sealed are less likely to as soon. If you do it now hopefully you won't have to open it up again as soon.

Sealed? You mean rubber sealed bearings? Link or what brand? Thanks!

The short answer is no.. you will still have to pull the diff apart... the oils we use are far to thing to get out of the m3 hole in the factory cups.. you should probably also have some diff gaskets handy if you plan to dive in..

Diff gaskets? Is there like a rebuild kit available or you just buy the gasket on its own? Thanks!

That's not quite true... there are a number of variables that can cause the opposite wheel not to roll immediately, ie. Worn Output cups, dog bones, diff cup towers ect.... so that method is no good.. while the spider and planetary gears can be shimmed that's not really what we are after here...

We want to take the backlash out of the ring and pinion.. it's the most common failure point.. as you see from your stripped ring and pinion... alot of the failures come from worn out or exploded pinion or carrier bearings, letting the mesh of the gears fall away eventually jumping teeth and the rest is history...

I use 2 .2 shims on the carrier and a .1 or a .2 shim behind the pinion depending on the slop in the lash.. but honestly even the 2 .2 shims on the carrier will make them so much better... thier are several videos on youtube about shimming these..

Nice. Do you have a part number for those shims? Thanks!

 

[PaPa Thorn]

Sealed? You mean rubber sealed bearings? Link or what brand? Thanks!

Diff gaskets? Is there like a rebuild kit available or you just buy the gasket on its own? Thanks!

Nice. Do you have a part number for those shims? Thanks!

Yes, rubber sealed bearings. There's a few brands out there, I used Fast Eddies.

https://www.fasteddybearings.com/arrma-bearing-kits/

 

[olds97_lss]

A path cut through it? How much are you packing in there?

I tried Lithium grease once and didn't like it. I'm using marine grease right now and so far no complaints. When I do have complaints I'll try red-n-tacky.

Well, I used the same tub of axle/bearing grease in all my diffs for the past 15 years or so until I recently got some red-n-tacky. On other trucks, with a form fitting diff case like the revo/t-maxx/LST, it didn't take much grease to make it look like the "case" was full and you could clearly see the path cut through it and very little sticking to the gears when maintenance time came around.

These days, I load up the teeth of the ring gear and that's all I put in. The red-n-tacky appears to really adhere to the gears even over time.