Limitless Dual Motor Limitless tp motors scorched full length chassis

[LicketySplit]

Yeah, putting spacers under the pistons works, but it definitely isn't convenient having to take out your shocks, drain them, disassemble your shocks, take spacers out, put spacers in, refill the shocks, etc. every time you want to adjust droop.

Agreed. It's trial and error. I ended up using 2 of those nylon washer under each piston. 3 was too much so I used the screws to meet in the middle. It also makes it harder to put the spring perch and shock end back on.

 

[Diem Turner]

Agreed. It's trial and error. I ended up using 2 of those nylon washer under each piston. 3 was too much so I used the screws to meet in the middle. It also makes it harder to put the spring perch and shock end back on.

Definitely. Especially if you're using ultra stiff springs. It makes it almost impossible to pop those suckers in there. Well, for me anyways. I don't have Paul Bunyan kinda strength.

 

[LicketySplit]

Definitely. Especially if you're using ultra stiff springs. It makes it almost impossible to pop those suckers in there. Well, for me anyways. I don't have Paul Bunyan kinda strength.

I'm using the Joe Diaz springs. I ended up using every cuss word in the book plus some made up one's. Ended up using the Hot Racing one's I had. Held the piston nut and just screwed them on. Worked great actually.

 

[Diem Turner]

I'm using the Joe Diaz springs. I ended up using every cuss word in the book plus some made up one's. Ended up using the Hot Racing one's I had. Held the piston nut and just screwed them on. Worked great actually.

Joe Diaz it is. It's scary how similar our cars are

 

[LicketySplit]

Joe Diaz it is. It's scary how similar our cars are

Bet mine's been a plane more than yours. I didn't get this Sundays crash on video. I was about to strap on the GoPro I got from @real_name_hidden but decided one more test pass.

 

[Diem Turner]

Bet mine's been a plane more than yours. I didn't get this Sundays crash on video. I was about to strap on the GoPro I got from @real_name_hidden but decided one more test pass.

"Just one more pass..." -- Famous last word by everyone ever, probably

You're probably right. I haven't had a blow over in a good long while. I know I just screwed myself by saying the quiet part out loud but, that's just how I roll...or fly. Whatever the case may be.

 

[vwturbowolf]

I ended up doing all three on this build for a couple reasons.
My single motor car uses front lower aluminum for the flex because it was bending the arms above 160. But I had to glue the other arms a lot to keep them from moving.
With the aluminum arms on this car I was able to shim the arms at the pins so that I know the caster of the wheels is exact and they are t glued so I can still take everything apart if needed

 

[LicketySplit]

I ended up doing all three on this build for a couple reasons.
My single motor car uses front lower aluminum for the flex because it was bending the arms above 160. But I had to glue the other arms a lot to keep them from moving.
With the aluminum arms on this car I was able to shim the arms at the pins so that I know the caster of the wheels is exact and they are t glued so I can still take everything apart if needed

So in 1:1 cars positive caster creates high speed stability. I’ve left the stock shims where they are. If I was to move them to the front of the upper arm I should be more stable. Am I correct in thinking this translates to RC? Pic below just to be clear.

 

[Diem Turner]

You're talking about moving these shims to here?

 

[LicketySplit]

You're talking about moving these shims to here?
View attachment 242141

Yea. I worked a 13 hour day so I’m not sure if I have that backwards. Lol

 

[Diem Turner]

Yea. I worked a 13 hour day so I’m not sure if I have that backwards. Lol

Well, yours are where they are in the stock configuration. I had never considered moving them or what effect that might have. So the idea is that moving the shims would increase caster? If so I may need to take a look at that. I just shimmed up my front bulkhead to at the back (hope that makes sense) to level out the front center drive shaft to help alleviate stress on the shaft from the downward pointed front diff input which will obviously reduce caster a little bit. If I could recoup a little bit of that by moving the shims...not a bad thought.

 

[LicketySplit]

Well, yours are where they are in the stock configuration. I had never considered moving them or what effect that might have. So the idea is that moving the shims would increase caster? If so I may need to take a look at that. I just shimmed up my front bulkhead to at the back (hope that makes sense) to level out the front center drive shaft to help alleviate stress on the shaft from the downward pointed front diff input which will obviously reduce caster a little bit. If I could recoup a little bit of that by moving the shims...not a bad thought.

Exactly. Pic for reference.

 

[Diem Turner]

Exactly. Pic for reference. View attachment 242143

Top friggin' notch. Thanks bro

 

[vwturbowolf]

Got a small update with this build. And also wanted to document my runs on one post so far to help me keep track of them
So far my runs were as follows:

1st gearing setup
1st session
4s 144mph
7s 97% throttle 176

Tires lost 2
Bearings changed
———————
2nd session
7s 187
7s 183 same charge

Tires lost 2
Bearings + new front shaft
———————
3rd session
7s 188
7s 186 same charge

Tires lost 4
Bearings changed
———————
4th session lowered gearing (-40mph geared to speed)
7s 181

Tires lost 2
Bearings changed + new front shaft
———————
5th session same gearing
8s 1st pass no gps read
8s 191 same charge

Tires lost 6
Bearings changed + new front shaft

Wanted to also note the bearings/shafts and tires lost for these passes so that everyone can see the investment made for these speeds.




With all that laid out,
I’m starting to see a small small improvement in bearing life setting up my front and rear exactly the same with a front vitavon bulkhead and rear plastic bulkhead. Today the front bearing came out in one piece and the rear(from the plastic housing) came apart in many pieces.
It seems as long as I change them within 2-3 runs, the front aluminum bulkhead is not egging out and it staying better in tact then the smaller bearing in the rear.


Take it with a grain of salt, anything can happen but I have seen the last two bearing changes the front has come out in one piece. At speeds above 150-160 I recommend changing the bearings after every single session 1-3 passes no matter what you think they feel like. Or else the risk of complete failure is extremely high

 

[LicketySplit]

Got a small update with this build. And also wanted to document my runs on one post so far to help me keep track of them
So far my runs were as follows:

1st gearing setup
1st session
4s 144mph
7s 97% throttle 176

Tires lost 2
Bearings changed
———————
2nd session
7s 187
7s 183 same charge

Tires lost 2
Bearings + new front shaft
———————
3rd session
7s 188
7s 186 same charge

Tires lost 4
Bearings changed
———————
4th session lowered gearing (-40mph geared to speed)
7s 181

Tires lost 2
Bearings changed + new front shaft
———————
5th session same gearing
8s 1st pass no gps read
8s 191 same charge

Tires lost 6
Bearings changed + new front shaft

Wanted to also note the bearings/shafts and tires lost for these passes so that everyone can see the investment made for these speeds.




With all that laid out,
I’m starting to see a small small improvement in bearing life setting up my front and rear exactly the same with a front vitavon bulkhead and rear plastic bulkhead. Today the front bearing came out in one piece and the rear(from the plastic housing) came apart in many pieces.
It seems as long as I change them within 2-3 runs, the front aluminum bulkhead is not egging out and it staying better in tact then the smaller bearing in the rear.


Take it with a grain of salt, anything can happen but I have seen the last two bearing changes the front has come out in one piece. At speeds above 150-160 I recommend changing the bearings after every single session 1-3 passes no matter what you think they feel like. Or else the risk of complete failure is extremely high
View attachment 242986
View attachment 242987
View attachment 242988
View attachment 242989

So the only bearings you change consistently are the input cup bearings?

 

[vwturbowolf]

So the only bearings you change consistently are the input cup bearings?

Since starting to run this build when everything was new

Outer hub bearings 1 time so far

Spool bearings 2 times so far

Diff bearings 1 time so far

 

[LicketySplit]

Outer hub bearings
Spool bearings

Yea same here. Just not as frequent as you at this point. I’m ready to go again but after going over the car last night I guess the right rear hub got wonky after the crash and the outer race of the inner bearing wobbles inside the hub. Ordered replacements from JRC.

 

[Dan B.]

Y’all are inspiring…l

 

[sert rc]

@vwturbowolf

Thanks for posting your bearing maintenance schedule - very eye opening. Do you run ceramic bearings?

Also, how are those aluminum suspension arms holding up to high speed crashes?

 

[vwturbowolf]

@vwturbowolf

Thanks for posting your bearing maintenance schedule - very eye opening. Do you run ceramic bearings?

Also, how are those aluminum suspension arms holding up to high speed crashes?

I run avid revolution aura bearings, they aren’t ceramic but seem to hold up best of the ones I’ve tried for the price. 2.50$ per bearing I don’t mind changing them often.

The arms are good and everything has stayed very straight. Haven’t crashed this build and hope I don’t but if it did go bad I don’t think there would be much left