Haastnooit’s RC related 3D prints

[Haastnooit]

Hello fellow 3D printers my name is Ronald and I have been a member of AF as of November 2022. I have been out of the RC hobby for close to 10 years, thanks to my daughter the fire is reignited. I used to be a active crawler and as such I was a member on RCC, the hobby expanded to a point I had sponsorship and designed and sold the concepts of crawler related parts. Very much fun it was … below a link to one of my threads on RCC containing some design history …

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axia...aastnooits-axr10-2-2s-ncd-sudu1-sudu1-fl.html

Nowadays I mainly bash together with my daughter, so focus is on very different kind of RC cars. My wife surprised me with a 3D printer (Ender 3 V2) for fathers day last year, very cool ! I always found them interesting but did not know for sure if I would really do anything with it, therefore I always was kind of reluctant to get one. Eventually the decision was made for me … and there is where we get to the subject of this thread.

I have a lot of fun designing and printing parts, random stuff, replacements for broken things for relatives and friends. I learned that the longer you have a 3D printer the more you will find meanings to print and use 3D printed parts. When applying to the RC hobby it is a new progressive aspect in which you can be creative and let your inner ‘designer’ run free …

In this thread I will post the RC related objects I designed and printed to hopefully inspire others to do similar … have fun !

 

[dure16]

Welcome. Do you have a user page on thingiverse, Printables, etc.?

 

[Haastnooit]

I have a account on thinigiverse but have not uploaded any designs yet.

Car stands

After getting acquainted with 3D printing by printing some downloaded STL files of Thingiverse, I went one step further and starting to draw my own parts. I had to learn how to 3D draw in Autocad. Skill is developing by every design and print you make so my advice is to not get discouraged, just keep trying new things and you will get there …

My first design is for something everybody with RC cars has or needs: a car stand for storing your RC on the shelf. The design is fairly simple and made for my Arrma 3S cars initially. Four parts, all screwed together. I made a smaller one for the 1-16 cars I collect.

Later on after making more designs for other parts I changed my overall basic design concept and I no longer wanted to use screws. Connecting parts where as of then press-fit by design, therefore I redesigned the car stands. In the redesign proces I also changed the dimensions so that the car stand could be pulled from under the car from the side. So they fit between the wheels, you can place or remove the car stands from the front, side or back of the car.

I have now 3 versions:

- Large (L) for the 6S cars
- Medium (M) for the 3S cars
- Small (S) for the 1-16 cars

 

[Haastnooit]

Shock stand

With this part I changed my overall design concept from using screws to using press-fit connections between different parts. It is a ver simple and small piece, ideal for trying out something new.

Using the press-fit connections was easy and successful for this part. The shock plate with the holes is interchangeable as you can see, so the stand can be used for multiple bore shocks. To add more stability when using the stand with the shock plate for the bigger 6S shocks I later added the footplates.

 

[Velodromed]

Shock stand

With this part I changed my overall design concept from using screws to using press-fit connections between different parts. It is a ver simple and small piece, ideal for trying out something new.

View attachment 273667

View attachment 273666


Using the press-fit connections was easy and successful for this part. The shock plate with the holes is interchangeable as you can see, so the stand can be used for multiple bore shocks. To add more stability when using the stand with the shock plate for the bigger 6S shocks I later added the footplates.

I like this one. Very handy.

 

[Haastnooit]

Appreciate that

Battery storage

When accumulating more different sized RC cars you automatically also collect lots of battery packs to power your cars. I had them stored in numerous different ways. The smaller 3S packs 450 and 850 mah packs for my crawlers were stored in small cardboard “half boxes”. The NiMH stickpacks for my Tamiya onroad cars are lying loose on the shelf. I kept all the newer 3S, 4S and 6S packs in the boxes I bought them in. All in all a whole shelf full of boxes and loose battery packs.

Not very efficient storage, so change was needed. First I designed and printed a rack to store my NiMH stick packs so I can store them on the same shelf behind the cars that use them.

For the different lipo packs you have to consider safety when storing, you should predominantly store them in fire proof boxes. Most commonly used are the .50 cal ammo boxes, as they are the most economical choice and work very well when you remove the rubber seal on the lid partially.

I went ahead and got myself 3 ammo boxes, but I don’t want to just stuff the lipo’s in a box all stacked on top of each other with the leads all in a tangle. I like things sorted so I took the principle of the stick pack rack and made some racks for the different lipos I got that fit the width of the ammo boxes perfectly.

For the bigger packs I chose to store a maximum of 8 in one ammo box, as you can see on the pic above I filled up 2 boxes with those. Ammo box 3 has all my medium and small size lipos in them.

6x 3S 450mah crawler packs (small)
4x 3S 850mah crawler packs (small)
4x 3S 2200mah boat packs (medium)
1x 3S 1800mah boat pack (medium)
1x 3S 2500mah boat pack (medium)
2x 2S 1050mah 1-16 car packs (small)

I got some more 2S packs for the 1-16 cars on order, so I will probably have to sort out the storage for the small lipos in the future.

Make sure to remove the rubber seal on the lid to make venting possible. I removed the seal on the sides only, this way the lid won’t rattle when transported and the places you put your hands is somewhat shielded by the seal in case you need to handle the box when hot fumes are spitted out.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Those lipo stand are great idea but most of lipos lay flat inside of them other wise i will need 1-2 extra boxes

Shock stand

With this part I changed my overall design concept from using screws to using press-fit connections between different parts. It is a ver simple and small piece, ideal for trying out something new.

View attachment 273667

View attachment 273666


Using the press-fit connections was easy and successful for this part. The shock plate with the holes is interchangeable as you can see, so the stand can be used for multiple bore shocks. To add more stability when using the stand with the shock plate for the bigger 6S shocks I later added the footplates.

I made something similar in the pass and i haven't sold any of them yet. I made a v2 who holds 1 bottle i believe more but i haven't printed that yet

Made a 1/8 shock stand also

 

[dure16]

Those lipo stand are great idea but most of lipos lay flat inside of them other wise i will need 1-2 extra boxes

I made something similar in the pass and i haven't sold any of them yet. I made a v2 who holds 1 bottle i believe more but i haven't printed that yetView attachment 274004
Made a 1/8 shock stand also
View attachment 274007View attachment 274006

Looks great. Got those files posted anywhere?

 

[Surchaufeur]

Looks great. Got those files posted anywhere?

No unfortnatly
Still figuring out if i should start a small bussiness or something else. If i make the files public that is kinda down in the drain

 

[Haastnooit]

Nice looking prints. You should make your own thread and post your work there, it would be nice to get this section on the forum a bit more active .

I printed a diff oil rack two weeks back I think, I wil post it up later. I am trying to post my 3D prints in the order I made them, that way it is easier for me to get all the relative information out. I have a register of all the prints I made … don’t know why, but I do must say our design styles are somewhat a like.

I think the investment in getting some more ammo boxes is marginal in retrospect to loosing all your lipos at once when storing all of them together in just one box, in case one of them gets instable and ignites.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Nice looking prints. You should make your own thread and post your work there, it would be nice to get this section on the forum a bit more active . I printed a diff oil rack two weeks back I think, I wil post it up later. I am trying to post my 3D prints in the order I made them, that way it is easier for me to get all the relative information out. I have a register of all the prints I made … don’t know why, but I do

I think the investment in getting some more ammo boxes is marginal in retrospect to loosing all your lipos at once when storing all of them together in just one box, in case one of them gets in stable and ignites.

I saw someone making fireproof dividers didnt go route that yet

 

[Haastnooit]

Fireteam GTXL-1 body parts

For my Fireteam build I decided to replace the stock body for a to me more appealing one made by HPI. During the build I 3D printed several parts to add to the chassis and body. To give more strength to the longer bodyposts I printed a simple brace that ties both posts together giving them the added strength of each other.

When I got the body mounted and the Mojave sideguards installed and was looking at the FT, I noticed the attachment points of the nerfbars on the sideguards. Then a look at my Bigrock made me decide to add runningboards to the car.

When preparing for paint I made some cosmetic 3D prints to add to the body and make it stand out more. I printed some roof sliders and a grille piece

Finished truck

Buildthread: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/haastnooit’s-fireteam-6s-blx.57518/

 

[Haastnooit]

I developed a few 3D printed parts that make my life easier. When bashing with my daughter I almost always end up carrying all cars as she always complains about sore hands when she has to carry the Big Rock back to the car. So in order to make carrying off the 3S Arrma’s more comfortable for her I designed a carry-handle. Off course with the heavy 6S cars we have the same issue so also designed a 6S carry-handle for our Notorious’.

I am now offering them for sale here in the Netherlands. This proces was fun but very time consuming, working out design issues, printing the prototypes and make revisions on the designs. Also learning my way in slicer software and altering g-code files was fun, but also frustrating when ironing out the issues did not go as expected.


Arrma 3S/4S Carry-handle (for Big Rock / Granite / Vorteks / Kraton 4S)

The “Arrma 3S/4S Carry-handle” is compatible with:

ARA 4312V3 Big Rock 3S BLX RTR
ARA 4302V3 Granite 3S BLX RTR
ARA 4305V3 Vorteks 3S BLX RTR
ARA 4408V2 Kraton 4S BLX RTR

And also all other rigs (like Granite Mega en Typhon 3S) with standard Armma wheelie bar set (ARA320613) installed.

Arrma 6S Carry-handle (voor Notorious / Outcast)

The “Arrma 6S Carry-handle” is compatible with:

ARA 8611V5 Notorious 6S V5 BLX RTR
ARA 106044 Notorious 6S BLX RTR
ARA 106060 Outcast 6S BLX 10th anniversary RTR
ARA 106042 Outcast 6S BLX RTR
ARA 8710 Outcast 6S BLX Extreme Bash RTR

And also all other rigs (like Kraton 6S, Talion 6S en Typhon 6S) with standard Arrma wheelie bar set (ARAC9493 / AR320366) installed.


Then to solve another problem we encounter I developed this bodyclip-hook to use to get the bodyclips off and not tear off the rubber straps. We ripped several off them and get sore fingers … but no more …

Arrma Bodyclip-Hook

 

[Surchaufeur]

Fireteam GTXL-1 body parts

For my Fireteam build I decided to replace the stock body for a to me more appealing one made by HPI. During the build I 3D printed several parts to add to the chassis and body. To give more strength to the longer bodyposts I printed a simple brace that ties both posts together giving them the added strength of each other.

View attachment 274110


When I got the body mounted and the Mojave sideguards installed and was looking at the FT, I noticed the attachment points of the nerfbars on the sideguards. Then a look at my Bigrock made me decide to add runningboards to the car.

View attachment 274111

View attachment 274112

View attachment 274113

View attachment 274114


When preparing for paint I made some cosmetic 3D prints to add to the body and make it stand out more. I printed some roof sliders and a grille piece

View attachment 274115

View attachment 274116

View attachment 274117


Finished truck

View attachment 274118

Thats sick

I developed a few 3D printed parts that make my life easier. When bashing with my daughter I almost always end up carrying all cars as she always complains about sore hands when she has to carry the Big Rock back to the car. So in order to make carrying off the 3S Arrma’s more comfortable for her I designed a carry-handle. Off course with the heavy 6S cars we have the same issue so also designed a 6S carry-handle for our Notorious’.

I am now offering them for sale here in the Netherlands. This proces was fun but very time consuming, working out design issues, printing the prototypes and make revisions on the designs. Also learning my way in slicer software and altering g-code files was fun, but also frustrating when ironing out the issues did not go as expected.


Arrma 3S/4S Carry-handle (for Big Rock / Granite / Vorteks / Kraton 4S)

The “Arrma 3S/4S Carry-handle” is compatible with:

ARA 4312V3 Big Rock 3S BLX RTR
ARA 4302V3 Granite 3S BLX RTR
ARA 4305V3 Vorteks 3S BLX RTR
ARA 4408V2 Kraton 4S BLX RTR

And also all other rigs (like Granite Mega en Typhon 3S) with standard Armma wheelie bar set (ARA320613) installed.

Arrma 6S Carry-handle (voor Notorious / Outcast)

The “Arrma 6S Carry-handle” is compatible with:

ARA 8611V5 Notorious 6S V5 BLX RTR
ARA 106044 Notorious 6S BLX RTR
ARA 106060 Outcast 6S BLX 10th anniversary RTR
ARA 106042 Outcast 6S BLX RTR
ARA 8710 Outcast 6S BLX Extreme Bash RTR

And also all other rigs (like Kraton 6S, Talion 6S en Typhon 6S) with standard Arrma wheelie bar set (ARAC9493 / AR320366) installed.


Then to solve another problem we encounter I developed this bodyclip-hook to use to get the bodyclips off and not tear off the rubber straps. We ripped several off them and get sore fingers … but no more …

Arrma Bodyclip-Hook

If that 6s holder works without coming undone

 

[Haastnooit]

Yes, it does work without coming undone. When attached you can swing and jiggle the car rather violently around holding the carry-handle and it will stay connected

 

[Haastnooit]

Workbench organization

To keep my workbench organized I 3D printed a diff oil rack and another small rack for storing glues and what not. I really like the freedom you have when you can print your own stuff. The dimensions of the racks are made to fit the space I have on the workbench. No compromise, 100% efficiency.

When wrenching on my cars I used to lay the screws on a piece of paper, encircled them and wrote down the name of part they came out off. You can imagine this is not a infallible system, I always had to make sure I did not move the paper or any of the screws.

To make this easier I made myself 2 screw-trays with numbered compartments, still use a piece of paper to write down the number of the compartment and the part name the screws came out of. To store the trays on my workbench I printed a holder to store both standing up.

 

[Haastnooit]

The 3S and 6S carry-handles work really great for the cars we have. The only car that is still a challenge to haul around is the Fireteam. It is a big and heavy car and without the cage there are not many points on the car that you can grab comfortably. Therefore I really wanted to print myself a carry-handle that would work with the FT.

So I sat down and started out adapting the 3S carry-handle hooks to work with the angles of the rear bumper. I learned some new CAD skills and designed some angled hooks that perfectly fitted the angled tubes of the rear bumper when the car was hooked and hanging straight down. The rotation of the hook when lifting the car from horizontal standing position to actually carrying it vertically caused problems however. Due to the rotation the actual required angle of the hook changes. Connection to the bumper is not stable in transition, another approach was needed.

It took me a while to come up with an alternative due to the shape of the FT bumper. I finally succeeded and designed a hook with the same clip on characteristics as the 6S carry-handle. I made some prototypes and tweaked the design for optimized use in the progress.

Arrma FT Carry-handle

 

[ColosTommy]

I like the body pin puller and 6s carry handle, nice work. Keep at it.

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

I need that damn shock/diff oil holder holy cow that looks satisfying

 

[ObeyTheNoodle]

These are all brilliant. Nice work and thank you for sharing.