Nylon prints warps bad and just wont stick

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soheilmd

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fireteam
  2. Kraton 8S
  3. Kraton EXB
I tried to print a kraton bumper today with a new rol nylon.
The damn thing just starts warping en after that it starts to come lose.
And now the facts:

Creality K1 260C and bed started from 60C and bumped up by 10C every try until reached 100C
Its a new rol from brand overture from amazon.

I tried a clean bed, bed with painters tape, original glue stick that came with the printer, even glue stick on painters tape!
Increased the brim to 20 lines!
Just after 15 a 16 layers en corners become warped en causing the nozzle hiting them or just come lose.

And what i noticed was that the printed items break easy. Much easier than ABS+. There is no flex just snaps.

Any tip is highly appreciated.
 
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What nylon is it.. the easy nylon or the standard nylon?.. what build plate are you using? A or B?

What is the chamber temp?
Its easy nylon. I have no idea what build plate i am using. Its the stock plate that came with the printer.
Chamber temp is around 35C
 
I tried to print a kraton bumper today with a new rol nylon.
The damn thing just starts warping en after that it starts to come lose.
And now the facts:

Creality K1 260C and bed started from 60C and bumped up by 10C every try until reached 100C
Its a new rol from brand overtorture from amazon.


I tried a clean bed, bed with painters tape, original glue stick that came with the printer, even glue stick on painters tape!
Increased the brim to 20 lines!
Just after 15 a 16 layers en corners become warped en causing the nozzle hiting them or just come lose.


Any tip is highly appreciated.

Any pics of the blue tape attempts?



Are you using the part cooling fan?
If so, you might want to turn it OFF.
 
Any pics of the blue tape attempts?



Are you using the part cooling fan?
If so, you might want to turn it OFF.
Unfortunately I didn’t make any pictures.
The fans where all OFF.
 
Its easy nylon. I have no idea what build plate i am using. Its the stock plate that came with the printer.
Chamber temp is around 35C

First problem you will have is the plate A that comes with the machine.. it doesn't particularly like nylon and polycarbonate.. the textured B plate is better suited for that application..

I print that easy nylon at 150-180mm
60c bed temp/ no glue
260c hot end
No fans, no side fan, no model fan, no back chamber fan..
No brim

But, I'm also printing in a heated chamber at 46-50c

Keep in mind if your first layer is lacking it just makes things worse..

Dry filament is also important, but I didn't dry mine prior to printing and it seemed fine..

I would first try to let the printer sit with a 80c bed for about 40mins to saturate the machine with heat then start your print.. hopefully it helps better results.. It is still worth the investment to buy the B plate.. they are flatter and give better adhesion / release
 
Thank you for your advice.
I wil try and let you know.
 
Thats how bad it warps. (This should have been a flat surface

IMG_2190.jpeg


@Camaroboy383
I just tried again with your settings. It warps so bad that it tears up the brim.

IMG_2191.jpeg
 
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Thats how bad it warps. (This should have been a flat surface

View attachment 346609

@Camaroboy383
I just tried again with your settings. It warps so bad that it tears up the brim.

View attachment 346610


Yeah, that unfortunately shows the build plate won't cooperate.. are you using any adhesion? Like glue of any sort?

That easy nylon prints like pla, you might need to buy that textured B plate.. it's a far better plate for all materials..
 
Thats how bad it warps. (This should have been a flat surface

View attachment 346609

@Camaroboy383
I just tried again with your settings. It warps so bad that it tears up the brim.

View attachment 346610

I see what's going on..

You're printing that piece as nearly a solid block..

So at the speed your trying to print..those new lines being laid above the initial layers are causing a temperature gradient.

Here's a test-
1.Slow down the print speed to half to 40mm/s or slower.

2. Use Gyroid infill at 20% or lower.

( 3. If possible, design in a 2mm chamfer around the outer edges of the Bottom of the part.)

Doing the first two options together should help a lot to preventing warpage.

Doing all three options will stop any warping completely.
 
I see what's going on..

You're printing that piece as nearly a solid block..

So at the speed your trying to print..those new lines being laid above the initial layers are causing a temperature gradient.

Here's a test-
1.Slow down the print speed to half to 40mm/s or slower.

2. Use Gyroid infill at 20% or lower.

( 3. If possible, design in a 2mm chamfer around the outer edges of the Bottom of the part.)

Doing the first two options together should help a lot to preventing warpage.

Doing all three options will stop any warping completely.


Worth a try, but that smooth plate sucks, even pla is hit or miss on warpage.. also that easy nylon is brittle as hell, its hardly a nylon..

hopefully there isn't any structure needed.. but If he can't get that easy nylon to print, real nylon is beyond out of the question..
 
Worth a try, but that smooth plate sucks, even pla is hit or miss on warpage.. also that easy nylon is brittle as hell, its hardly a nylon..

hopefully there isn't any structure needed.. but If he can't get that easy nylon to print, real nylon is beyond out of the question..

True.

But at least he should be able to get a prototype printed (complete)
and test fitted to what he designed the part for..

One step at a time.. 🤘
 
Something is really wrong, after al the mis prints i tried print some ABS+ (never had any problems with it). Even that wont stick at al anymore. I printed yesterday without any problems. I washed the plate with dishwashe soap and cleaned it after with alcohol still no diffrence. It just wont stick.

@Camaroboy383
I just ordered the B plate.
So easy nylon is brittle by design?. So not usable for bumper :(

@Tex Koder
1 en 3 shouldnt be a problem. But the blok is the bumper support and did wanna print it 100%. But for troubleshooting purposes i wil print it as you advised.

Thank you guys for your help!

By the way, this is the file i am trying to print : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5445421
Worth a try, but that smooth plate sucks, even pla is hit or miss on warpage.. also that easy nylon is brittle as hell, its hardly a nylon..

hopefully there isn't any structure needed.. but If he can't get that easy nylon to print, real nylon is beyond out of the question..
Is ASA a option for bumper and heavy duty parts?
 
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Something is really wrong, after al the mis prints i tried print some ABS+ (never had any problems with it). Even that wont stick at al anymore. I printed yesterday without any problems. I washed the plate with dishwashe soap and cleaned it after with alcohol still no diffrence. It just wont stick.

@Camaroboy383
I just ordered the B plate.
So easy nylon is brittle by design?. So not usable for bumper :(

@Tex Koder
1 en 3 shouldnt be a problem. But the blok is the bumper support and did wanna print it 100%. But for troubleshooting purposes i wil print it as you advised.

Thank you guys for your help!

By the way, this is the file i am trying to print : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5445421

Is ASA a option for bumper and heavy duty parts?

I have a roll of ASA that was provided to me by @LibertyMKiii ... Both he and I had major issues trying to make that filament print properly.

So we never got to test its durability in real-world testing.. 🤷‍♂️


*********


I'll have to give it another go at it ,once I'm done modifying my S1..
 
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Something is really wrong, after al the mis prints i tried print some ABS+ (never had any problems with it). Even that wont stick at al anymore. I printed yesterday without any problems. I washed the plate with dishwashe soap and cleaned it after with alcohol still no diffrence. It just wont stick.

@Camaroboy383
I just ordered the B plate.
So easy nylon is brittle by design?. So not usable for bumper :(

@Tex Koder
1 en 3 shouldnt be a problem. But the blok is the bumper support and did wanna print it 100%. But for troubleshooting purposes i wil print it as you advised.

Thank you guys for your help!

By the way, this is the file i am trying to print : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5445421

Is ASA a option for bumper and heavy duty parts?


Bumper springs would be best suited in a flexible or semi flexible filament..
95a TPU
PCtpe
910 or 645 nylons

Asa is definitely stronger than the easy nylon, but a good enough hit will break it, asa is also easier to print than abs, so definitely a better choice.. Just not really suited for impact areas..the durability and strength of real nylons is best suited for rc..
 
I read some advise sanding the PEI plate for beter adhesion. Whats you thoughts about that?
 
I read some advise sanding the PEI plate for beter adhesion. Whats you thoughts about that?


I have heard of people doing it, and it makes sense.. worse case scenario is you can just flip your A plate over..

What is your printer natural environment? Is it room temp, or cold? Any air movement in that environment, fans etc.?
 
I have heard of people doing it, and it makes sense.. worse case scenario is you can just flip your A plate over..

What is your printer natural environment? Is it room temp, or cold? Any air movement in that environment, fans etc.?
Room temp is 20C /68F
No air movement

I just sanded it. The filament sticks (ABS+) but for some reasons my layers are not getting as good as they used to be.
Printing 0.2
Speed 60
Initial layer 40
265C/509F
Bed 100c/ 212
Fan 10%

IMG_2195.jpeg


17071483248905252943830266313966.jpg


Wel i guess i officialy ruined the plate. The ABS sticks so wel that it wont come loose any more :confused:
I think 1000 grade sand paper is to much, ill go to 2000 and see if it makes it less sticky
 
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