Notorious Heatwave's Notorious Build Thread!

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Heatwave

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Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
Heyo! I've recently got a used Notorious for $400, it came with upgrade tires, paddle tires, though one pair for some reason came with a 12mm hex, which means I can only use the ones with a 17mm. It was a super fun truck, until I stripped the rear input gear. A loud clicking noise caused some trouble.

At first I though something broke in the center diff, so I tore that apart, but found nothing, so I checked the front diff, and found nothing there either, and of course I check the rear diff last and there's the problem.

PXL_20220624_214842752.jpg


PXL_20220625_014241315.jpg

Heyo! I've recently got a used Notorious for $400, it came with upgrade tires, paddle tires, though one pair for some reason came with a 12mm hex, which means I can only use the ones with a 17mm. It was a super fun truck, until I stripped the rear input gear. A loud clicking noise caused some trouble.

At first I though something broke in the center diff, so I tore that apart, but found nothing, so I checked the front diff, and found nothing there either, and of course I check the rear diff last and there's the problem.

PXL_20220624_214842752.jpg


PXL_20220625_014241315.jpg
I've fixed the gear, and have put 20wt oil in the rear diff. I will be putting 500,000 wt oil in the center, as most people recommended this weight. I have had a massive amount of front ballooning, which I'm hoping this thicker oil will resolve most of that issue. At some points I couldn't even wheelie, which got frustrating because I bought this truck just so I could doo hundred foot long wheelies
 
Been there also. Did the 2 good diffs first...
From experience with these 6s rigs, it is always the Rear to go first. So I always start at the rear if I am not sure which it is.
You need an Input Gear and new Main Gear, changed as a set. Best way. Consider New Input gear BB's while you are there also. I always do this when changing the Input Gear.
Clean and Rebuild the whole diff while you have it out. Fresh oil etc.
 
Very nice! After four, 3S cars and three Voltages I entered the 6s world with a used notorious. First thing I did was completely take it apart and spend the next two months rebuilding it several times while getting to know it. I love that car. I got a new Kraton now as well.

CF0E7F47-CAEF-426C-B388-CAFBCDEF6096.jpeg

When I first finished mine it was all wheelies and barely controllable for me even on 4s. Then I figured out it was set on punch 9 with a 16t pinion. Now it’s on punch five with a 14t pinion and much more manageable. I also reduced timing a good chunk to help with heat during the Texas summer.
 
Heyo! I've recently got a used Notorious for $400, it came with upgrade tires, paddle tires, though one pair for some reason came with a 12mm hex, which means I can only use the ones with a 17mm. It was a super fun truck, until I stripped the rear input gear. A loud clicking noise caused some trouble.

At first I though something broke in the center diff, so I tore that apart, but found nothing, so I checked the front diff, and found nothing there either, and of course I check the rear diff last and there's the problem.

View attachment 226390

View attachment 226391

I've fixed the gear, and have put 20wt oil in the rear diff. I will be putting 500,000 wt oil in the center, as most people recommended this weight. I have had a massive amount of front ballooning, which I'm hoping this thicker oil will resolve most of that issue. At some points I couldn't even wheelie, which got frustrating because I bought this truck just so I could doo hundred foot long wheelies
Welp, just had an electrical accident. I was storage charging my batts, and when they finished I pulled one out, forgetting to disconnect the adapter from the battery. As I pulled it out, the banana plugs touched each other and sparks flew. I thank fully didn't catch anything on fire, but my adapter is a bit toasted. Will never make that mistake again. Kinda hard to see but the plug is definitely ruined, but after a quick test it still sends a charge.

PXL_20220628_200529159.jpg
 
Welp, just had an electrical accident. I was storage charging my batts, and when they finished I pulled one out, forgetting to disconnect the adapter from the battery. As I pulled it out, the banana plugs touched each other and sparks flew. I thank fully didn't catch anything on fire, but my adapter is a bit toasted. Will never make that mistake again. Kinda hard to see but the plug is definitely ruined, but after a quick test it still sends a charge.

View attachment 226394

Okay now...
YOU sir, qualify for the Lipo Battery Safety Seminar-
Read through this thread to prevent house fires >>>

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...my-experience-for-others-to-learn-from.47869/


******************

Best to cut that ruined banana plug off and replace with a new one.
 
Welp, just had an electrical accident. I was storage charging my batts, and when they finished I pulled one out, forgetting to disconnect the adapter from the battery. As I pulled it out, the banana plugs touched each other and sparks flew. I thank fully didn't catch anything on fire, but my adapter is a bit toasted. Will never make that mistake again. Kinda hard to see but the plug is definitely ruined, but after a quick test it still sends a charge.

View attachment 226394
Yeah I made that mistake once. Just once. Didn’t ruin the battery but scared the heck out of me. Glad all is okay on your end…
 
Welp, just had an electrical accident. I was storage charging my batts, and when they finished I pulled one out, forgetting to disconnect the adapter from the battery. As I pulled it out, the banana plugs touched each other and sparks flew. I thank fully didn't catch anything on fire, but my adapter is a bit toasted. Will never make that mistake again. Kinda hard to see but the plug is definitely ruined, but after a quick test it still sends a charge.

View attachment 226394
That will still be ok for charging use. Been there also. Just happens one time, once you learn the hard way.:LOL:
 
I've got an issue now, I'm almost done fixing it, but I've hit a wall. I ordered new shocks standoffs because one of mine broke, and I ordered new screws as well because they other ones were bent. For some reason when I mount the shock up, put the standoff in, I can't seem to get the screw to go through (that's what she said) Help!
Here's an image of the two pieces
 

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I believe that is a front diff issue. Someone smarter than me will chime in.
 
Problem solved, test ran it. There's a clicking noise when I hit the brakes.
oh, apparently clicking under braking = front diff, and under acceleration = rear diff. I've learned that (with my old eyes) that even just a small imperfection in a front/rear ring gear can produce that clicking sound. So giving them a good wipe down and inspection under bright light will help. The above comments about changing the input gear at the same time are valuable - allows them to wear at the same time. You don't want one sharp one against and smooth one. Enjoy the process mate.
 
oh, apparently clicking under braking = front diff, and under acceleration = rear diff. I've learned that (with my old eyes) that even just a small imperfection in a front/rear ring gear can produce that clicking sound. So giving them a good wipe down and inspection under bright light will help. The above comments about changing the input gear at the same time are valuable - allows them to wear at the same time. You don't want one sharp one against and smooth one. Enjoy the process
Took it out for a second test run, and it clicks really bad, accelerating and braking. Got to a point where I was worried so i brought it inside. I'm going to take a break on fixing it for awhile as it's ring my schedule lol
 
I've got an issue now, I'm almost done fixing it, but I've hit a wall. I ordered new shocks standoffs because one of mine broke, and I ordered new screws as well because they other ones were bent. For some reason when I mount the shock up, put the standoff in, I can't seem to get the screw to go through (that's what she said) Help!
Here's an image of the two pieces
Should just screw on. Are you sure you got the right diameter?

Your diffs are probably f*cked bud. Soon as the clicking starts you gotta stop driving. The clicking sound is teeth skipping and chipping. Depending on how bad it is you can shim the ring and inputs closer together. If they still click after that, your front and rear will need new sets..
 
I will not have any further updates for awhile! Just letting everyone know that I will be busy working on other things and will not tend to my build thread. I will leave updates on a few things here and there, maybe a few pics.
 
This will be my final message here. After careful consideration, I won't be active in the ArrmaForum any more, not because it's a bad forum, it's just that I am done with Arrma vehicles.

All I've had is issues, and I've never been able to run it without something falling off or breaking. It just wasn't worth the amount I've already spent on it trying to fix just to keep it running.

I'm currently selling the truck, and won't be purchasing any Arrma vehicles from now on, as I quickly figured that bashers are not my type. I'm sticking to crawlers and always will. I love the forum and the help I've gotten, but it's just not fun anymore. Thank you all for the help and advice I've gotten over the short time I've been here.

Goodbye.
 
I bought mine used and immediatelly had the clicking. Turned out to be the tiniest chip in the ring gear on two teeth. Then had a center diff eat itself because it lost oil and likely overheated, melting all of the plastic around the internals. $40 fix and up and running. The issues youve written on here are pretty small. Sorry to hear you're out of the game. My 6s has been the most reliable...when I don't smash into things.
 
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