Kraton HELP - Steering question

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Bread1267

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Just replaced my servo on my kraton 6s v5. Will this angle of the arm cause problems? My steerings seems somewhat weak. (Servo saver absorbing a lot of the torque)
 
Yes

Looks good I just ordered this: Hot Racing Aluminum Fixed Link Steering with 25t Servo Arm, HRAAON48SH25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072YJ6L4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5QXRJWVJT7WKJBT10VBR

Hopefully this will fix my problems because stock servo was fine up until it died after about 2 days of running it. The servo horn that came with my new servo doesn’t allow me to mount it underneath.
Like some others have said, put in some c clips or get the servo spring (which seems to be out of stock most places) and get those bushings out of there if that doesn’t completely solve it. Good luck!
 
So at this point I don't see the hot racing arm link helping your situation. Also definitely send HH an email. Include that video, this thread link, name, receipt etc.
Also check all the steering rack screws etc.
Why don't you think it will help fix it? If you look at the picture you sent the steering link is under the servo arm which is directly straight connected to the steering rack. My setup has only gotten worse since I rose it up and put those washers in there. I am honestly 95% sure that my servo link being so high up is causing all of the problems. Like I said before my old stock servo worked fine and had a bunch of torque before it died and the servo link was UNDER the servo arm. I will update the thread once my servo arm and link come in the mail.
 
So I’m assuming that short video you posted is your rig. In that video the servo horn is moving appropriately but the tires barely move. Now focus on the servo saver. Each time you try to turn the servo does it’s job, but the upper and lower halves of the servo saver rotate/separate. That is definitively the servo saver spring. The new servo is overpowering it. The geometry of the servo arm will be more efficient if it is parallel but it is not the main cause of your problem. Finally, why did you replace the servo? Did it fail?
 
I'm definitely agree about replacing the servo horn. I didn't realize that it was on top not below. I would say keeping it the stock direction is best and my point was the whole link setup from HR is unnecessary but now I'm guessing it makes sense as it includes the servo horn.
Also my servo is in a JBIRC extended servo mount with a aluminum and plastic spacer. Its definitely raised up a bit without issues.
Here is my V5 typhon. I put my protek 370tbl servo with the exb mount and used 1 plastic washer.

16119656820715384097336327299825.jpg


16119657664476516026447457419513.jpg
 
So I’m assuming that short video you posted is your rig. In that video the servo horn is moving appropriately but the tires barely move. Now focus on the servo saver. Each time you try to turn the servo does it’s job, but the upper and lower halves of the servo saver rotate/separate. That is definitively the servo saver spring. The new servo is overpowering it. The geometry of the servo arm will be more efficient if it is parallel but it is not the main cause of your problem. Finally, why did you replace the servo? Did it fail?
Yes the original one failed and HH is sending me out a new one but im just gonna keep it as a backup. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9XZYN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you suggest I still go ahead and get a stiffer spring aswell? I bought C clips and have them on standby. Also how would I even replace the spring when the servo saver is locked down with loctite?
 
So I’m assuming that short video you posted is your rig. In that video the servo horn is moving appropriately but the tires barely move. Now focus on the servo saver. Each time you try to turn the servo does it’s job, but the upper and lower halves of the servo saver rotate/separate. That is definitively the servo saver spring. The new servo is overpowering it. The geometry of the servo arm will be more efficient if it is parallel but it is not the main cause of your problem. Finally, why did you replace the servo? Did it fail?
He mentioned that it failed at some point. I 100% agree looking at the video. The horn and arm move but the servo saver fails somehow. He needs to contact HH or get the exb spring.
 
I'm definitely agree about replacing the servo horn. I didn't realize that it was on top not below. I would say keeping it the stock direction is best and my point was the whole link setup from HR is unnecessary but now I'm guessing it makes sense as it includes the servo horn.
Also my servo is in a JBIRC extended servo mount with a aluminum and plastic spacer. Its definitely raised up a bit without issues.
Here is my V5 typhon. I put my protek 370tbl servo with the exb mount and used 1 plastic washer.

View attachment 123354

View attachment 123355
It would have been so much easier if HH just made the spektrum servos be 25t then I could just use the stock servo horn on my new servo instead of buying a new one.
He mentioned that it failed at some point. I 100% agree looking at the video. The horn and arm move but the servo saver fails somehow. He needs to contact HH or get the exb spring.
Do you think something is wrong with my servo saver and that I should try to get a new one? Or just get a stiffer spring from HH?
 
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Yes the original one failed and HH is sending me out a new one but im just gonna keep it as a backup. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9XZYN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you suggest I still go ahead and get a stiffer spring aswell? I bought C clips and have them on standby. Also how would I even replace the spring when the servo saver is locked down with loctite?
So odds are the servo was crap but it could have been overworked fighting the bushings and servo saver that helped shorten it’s life. I would 100% change that spring or put the clips in. If you remove the post and hit the end of the aluminum with a heat gun it will come apart.
 
So odds are the servo was crap but it could have been overworked fighting the bushings and servo saver that helped shorten it’s life. I would 100% change that spring or put the clips in. If you remove the post and hit the end of the aluminum with a heat gun it will come apart.
Alright well I am gonna add some c clips to it and then put that servo arm+ plus linkage in and ill update this thread.
 
Hey, not hijacking the thread but im so confused by all this that I don't know where I'm confused, lol.
I have the the same servo the OP is getting. Im doing a rebuild of my Senton 6s. ENTIRE steering assembly will be Hot Racing. I was going to use the original servo saver, but now im wondering, because of that video, if its going to be underpowered. My situation is the same. I run 2.8 MT belted Trenchers. And use the BLX 185. So, according to the video, I need a glitch buster or bec booster or change up the servo saver. Following?
My issue is, I choose this servo because its what I bought and put in my 3s. And the 3s ran on 2.8 belted Trenchers too.
So if the 6s will be underpowered, the 3s should be WAAAY underpowered on the BLX100, right? Except I found it OVERPOWERED to the point that I turned steering speed down to 42% via my transmitter. What am I missing here? Talk to me like I'm stupid, no hurt feelings because I might actually learn something.

HR knuckles will be in on Monday/Tuesday.
16119719191388605357440311994509.jpg

Here's the specs for the servo:
Screenshot_20210129-204331_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
Hey, not hijacking the thread but im so confused by all this that I don't know where I'm confused, lol.
I have the the same servo the OP is getting. Im doing a rebuild of my Senton 6s. ENTIRE steering assembly will be Hot Racing. I was going to use the original servo saver, but now im wondering, because of that video, if its going to be underpowered. My situation is the same. I run 2.8 MT belted Trenchers. And use the BLX 185. So, according to the video, I need a glitch buster or bec booster or change up the servo saver. Following?
My issue is, I choose this servo because its what I bought and put in my 3s. And the 3s ran on 2.8 belted Trenchers too.
So if the 6s will be underpowered, the 3s should be WAAAY underpowered on the BLX100, right? Except I found it OVERPOWERED to the point that I turned steering speed down to 42% via my transmitter. What am I missing here? Talk to me like I'm stupid, no hurt feelings because I might actually learn something.

HR knuckles will be in on Monday/Tuesday.View attachment 123389
Here's the specs for the servo:View attachment 123390
Both of those ESC provide 6v to the servo. The torque of the servo will then the same regardless. A 35kg servo is plenty of power. If the wheels still aren’t turning well you need to modify the servo saver and look for binding in the system. If the servo horn and linkage is turning but your wheels aren’t check your linkages and check the servo saver.
 
Both of those ESC provide 6v to the servo. The torque of the servo will then the same regardless. A 35kg servo is plenty of power. If the wheels still aren’t turning well you need to modify the servo saver and look for binding in the system. If the servo horn and linkage is turning but your wheels aren’t check your linkages and check the servo saver.
Will do. No problems yet as the Senton 6s build is waiting on the rest of the parts. The Scorched shipment will likely be the last one in. Expected to fly across the pond soon and then Customs needs to figure out how to get maximum milking, err..duty and taxes outta me.
 
Awesome, look forward to seeing the results. Good luck!
After installing the new servo horn and linkage the torque seems to way better than what it was at previously. Regardless, I am still not satisfied completely so I am gonna install some C clips to tighten up the spring and go from there.

IMG_1455.jpg
 
watched the video and skipped posts, not sure if someone already covered this but its yours servo saver - its loose.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing-AON48A02-Servo-Saver-Tube-with-Clamping-Nut-Set-AR340122/233380348097?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARRMA-ARA3...m-X-Hard-Felony-Kraton-Limitless/193755006088

You don't necessarily need the above items but they help in the long run. For now add some washers/spacers and loctite the heck out of the nut.
 
After installing the new servo horn and linkage the torque seems to way better than what it was at previously. Regardless, I am still not satisfied completely so I am gonna install some C clips to tighten up the spring and go from there.

View attachment 124611
Geometry looks dead on. If you’re going to take apart the steering rack get rid of the bushings while you are in there.
 
Geometry looks dead on. If you’re going to take apart the steering rack get rid of the bushings while you are in there.
You recommend some bearings or just take the bushings out in general? I added some restraining clips and it sure did tighten the spring up. Im not sure why they even made the spring for the servo saver so weak.
 
You recommend some bearings or just take the bushings out in general? I added some restraining clips and it sure did tighten the spring up. Im not sure why they even made the spring for the servo saver so weak.
Bearings. I put the HR steering links in my 3s. Didnt get rid of a hell lot of play but the bearings were a great upgrade that improved the heck out of steering control.
 
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