Vorteks Hybrid Vorteks

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The other day I cased a jump so hard that the car shut off. Once I opened her up I realized that the ESC was blinking red fast. The day was over anyway so I took it home and started working on it. I reset the ESC but only got the blinking red light. Suddenly I thought what if I killed esc on impact? It’s a relatively new 130 amp spectrum and that thought bummed me a bit. But then I thought what if I just killed the receiver on impact?

It’s a vorteks and came with the DX3 and I don’t have any extra receivers that go with that, so for lack of anything better to do, I tried a receiver from one of my 3S cars. It bound with no issue to the dx3 remote and the car came back to life. Go figure 😂 an easy fix for once!

In another post recently I saw that a guy’s DX3 remote was lost and he was told that the SLT 3 remote will not bind with the 6200 receiver. So I was a little surprised that a stock 3s receiver bound to the DX3 remote with no issue and I’m wondering why it wouldn’t work the other way around? Or am I just confused as usual…
Your gonna need a Lawyer for that case 🤣 ( If you are mountain biker you get it ).
 
Your gonna need a Lawyer for that case 🤣 ( If you are mountain biker you get it ).
Yeah you caught that mtb reference well lol. I cased plenty jumps in my day 🙃
 
Check out what's left of my power module..had to make room for bigger gears...😆😅🤣😂..
Need me m2c one

View attachment 212346

View attachment 212347
Can you believe I fit all this under a typhon body??same chassis as your vortek...got the vortek body if I ever decide to run more packs..ran It on 5s for 1st time today an it was insane,used a 3000mah pack that only weighs 430 grams compared to regular 4s pack I use is 620grams..so I took alot of weight outa car an added more volts,power an it showed.then spur let go..will need metal spurs from now on.
Dude, I think you need an alloy spacer between the spur case front and back in that exposed corner. Otherwise, won’t it allow for the spur to flex? Something like this…

image.jpg
 
Just posted today's 5s run on how fast did you go today thread...biotch was screaming...
I will check it out in a little bit. So I’m figuring that you combine a 3S and 2s battery to get 5s?
 
Hey bud, as for your question about the reciever and transmitters, the Spektrum SLT3 transmitter runs on SLT protocol. The Spektrum DX3 runs DSMR protocol. The Spektrum 6200 reciever is a DSMR reciever and will only work with a DSM transmitter. Some of the 3s rigs have the Spektrum sr315 reciever which is a dual protocol reciever and will work with both DSM and SLT transmitters. The other guy wanted to run a Spektrum 6200 DSMR protocol reciever with a SLT3 transmitter that is SLT protocol. Won't bind to each other.
 
Hey bud, as for your question about the reciever and transmitters, the Spektrum SLT3 transmitter runs on SLT protocol. The Spektrum DX3 runs DSMR protocol. The Spektrum 6200 reciever is a DSMR reciever and will only work with a DSM transmitter. Some of the 3s rigs have the Spektrum sr315 reciever which is a dual protocol reciever and will work with both DSM and SLT transmitters. The other guy wanted to run a Spektrum 6200 DSMR protocol reciever with a SLT3 transmitter that is SLT protocol. Won't bind to each other.
OK that makes sense, thanks man. I was just confused why it would work one way but not the other and now I understand.

Someday I will try to learn what transmitter protocols etc mean, but not today. It’s nap time 😂
 
I will check it out in a little bit. So I’m figuring that you combine a 3S and 2s battery to get 5s?
No they make 5s packs,not many to choose from..I'm running this 3000mah cnhl 5s pack..getting a 4000mah cnhl and a 4000mah smc srd pack soon.....you can also run a 2 an 3s pack also,,I just don't have much room for packs..

20220419_180904.jpg
 
No they make 5s packs,not many to choose from..I'm running this 3000mah cnhl 5s pack..getting a 4000mah cnhl and a 4000mah smc srd pack soon.....you can also run a 2 an 3s pack also,,I just don't have much room for packs..

View attachment 212879
I did not know they made those! Thanks bud. Man…you are influencing me. Almost wanting a speed car here 😅
 
Picked up these again. I loved them on the vorteks but made the mistake of getting 14mm hex, which stripped out on one and started to on a second. But man did I like the tires while they worked! I have the Powerhobby defenders with 17mm hex on old Yeller and they have proven quite sturdy.

I’ve also got an Arrma cnc ring/input gear and composite case on the way. CVDs and metal spur are already in hand as well as a new body to paint. Thing is getting some nice upgrades soon!

31D29486-0B68-41F3-8817-C447BE5925BF.png
 
I love these tires on this car. They are a perfect match. Unfortunately I also finished off the rear differential this run so I’m waiting for the parts for a metal diff to come in. Throwing on a set of Arrma CVDs also. I’ve been trying a set on old Yeller and they’re working fine even with the typhon arms. At least on the rear they are. I can definitely see how they would separate if put on the front.

E418867A-03DA-4AF3-B695-C680E45C7458.jpeg
 
Man… I had trouble putting this metal diff together. First time together it wouldn’t spin. So I took it apart, drained it and realized I’d forgotten one of the shims on top of the o-ring. I put it back together with new oil and it spun, then clicked and stopped.

So I took it apart again and drained the oil. After a while I figured out that little tiny bearing between the output drives had fallen apart. Yup, I’m using internals from a used diff. I pulled it out, replaced it and put it back together. It spun nicely so I put the bearings on, installed it in the hot racing yolk, put the axles on then spun it one more time… click click then it jammed. At this point I looked closely at the little tiny bearing I’d pulled out and realized I didn’t get all of it. Like all the little stupid balls part of it.

So I pulled the differential apart, drained all of the new oil, completely cleaned everything and inspected it closely. I got it back together with new oil and it’s perfect now. I just finished putting back together the Vorteks Thing and can’t wait to test it tomorrow. Metal spur, CVDs and metal differential. Now I can finish fixing the Noto so I can finally open the new Kraton😃

40E1AA8B-192D-45FF-8044-0C9957EC63BD.jpeg


A6C830EA-EEB9-4557-BA54-B202021C7D3A.jpeg


A64C36DB-3B7B-4016-AD23-3D2256E65272.jpeg


AB09669F-5699-4D98-8842-C631126F1CE9.jpeg
 
Man… I had trouble putting this metal diff together. First time together it wouldn’t spin. So I took it apart, drained it and realized I’d forgotten one of the shims on top of the o-ring. I put it back together with new oil and it spun, then clicked and stopped.

So I took it apart again and drained the oil. After a while I figured out that little tiny bearing between the output drives had fallen apart. Yup, I’m using internals from a used diff. I pulled it out, replaced it and put it back together. It spun nicely so I put the bearings on, installed it in the hot racing yolk, put the axles on then spun it one more time… click click then it jammed. At this point I looked closely at the little tiny bearing I’d pulled out and realized I didn’t get all of it. Like all the little stupid balls part of it.

So I pulled the differential apart, drained all of the new oil, completely cleaned everything and inspected it closely. I got it back together with new oil and it’s perfect now. I just finished putting back together the Vorteks Thing and can’t wait to test it tomorrow. Metal spur, CVDs and metal differential. Now I can finish fixing the Noto so I can finally open the new Kraton😃

View attachment 215560

View attachment 215561

View attachment 215562

View attachment 215563
I knew you could do it!
 
I knew you could do it!
Thanks man!

It’s my second one and that tiny stupid bearing was such an issue. Maybe I should use new diffs for the parts. I just have several old ones. Bit me this time though.

That tiny bearing, It’s metal shielded…think that’s cause it’s needed or just cheap? Could I upgrade with a rubber sealed you think?
 
Thanks man!

It’s my second one and that tiny stupid bearing was such an issue. Maybe I should use new diffs for the parts. I just have several old ones. Bit me this time though.

That tiny bearing, It’s metal shielded…think that’s cause it’s needed or just cheap? Could I upgrade with a rubber sealed you think?
The rubber shielded bearings are sealed better. Don't see why you couldn't use them in your differential.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top