Is my Castle mamba monster x 8s ESC shot?

[BudUMfan]

I just installed a 1717 castle motor and mamba max 8s ESC. Made a few speed runs and let it cool down. Car worked fine. Never cut off. Not sure of the motor temps but everything was working fine when I turned it off. Today I charge my packs. Installed a fan but my ESC is now just blinking red. No power. No start up. Just red blinking light. I read it means overheating. Can I reset it? I didn’t install it but doesn’t have a cutoff regardless? I don’t know enough about it and I searched the forum. It is brand new and first time I ran it. Now I’m praying I can reset it. Or did I fry it already due to motor temperature because I ran it a few times more than I should have? I pray it’s just stuck and needs resetting. Let me know!

 

[smirkracing]

Lots of potential things cause this, but usually blinking red means esc is no longer calibrated. Something as simple as your throttle trim being too far forward can cause the ESC to get "throttle on" signal when it starts up, which will cause it not to calibrate. So one simple thing to try is centering all your trims and then restarting, and if that doesn't work, then going through the entire calibration process again (30 seconds or so). There are vids showing this on YT.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I just installed a 1717 castle motor and mamba max 8s ESC. Made a few speed runs and let it cool down. Car worked fine. Never cut off. Not sure of the motor temps but everything was working fine when I turned it off. Today I charge my packs. Installed a fan but my ESC is now just blinking red. No power. No start up. Just red blinking light. I read it means overheating. Can I reset it? I didn’t install it but doesn’t have a cutoff regardless? I don’t know enough about it and I searched the forum. It is brand new and first time I ran it. Now I’m praying I can reset it. Or did I fry it already due to motor temperature because I ran it a few times more than I should have? I pray it’s just stuck and needs resetting. Let me know!

With hobbywing red blinking light means no radio signal found

 

[BudUMfan]

It’s a castle. I apologize

 

[Exc3l]

It’s a castle. I apologize

Try it!! Let us know how it goes

 

[BudUMfan]

I’m hoping that it’s just needing recalibration like @smirkracing said. I spent less than most but I don’t want to buy another one. Warranty is void if you’re speed running it. So I read. But I don’t know if I can cram an XLX2 in my Felony. My LHS is really good to me and the mechanic is smart. Knows way more than me and does a lot of things for me for nothing. So I’ll take it up there and have him take a look. Since he put it in. I’m there yet. Motor? No issues. Soldering and wiring? Not so much.

 

[slick2500]

I’m hoping that it’s just needing recalibration like @smirkracing said. I spent less than most but I don’t want to buy another one. Warranty is void if you’re speed running it. So I read. But I don’t know if I can cram an XLX2 in my Felony. My LHS is really good to me and the mechanic is smart. Knows way more than me and does a lot of things for me for nothing. So I’ll take it up there and have him take a look. Since he put it in. I’m there yet. Motor? No issues. Soldering and wiring? Not so much.

If you can't figure it out and speed running does void the warranty Castle does have their tier 2 warranty that you can basically do whatever to the esc and they will give you a discount on the trade in for a new one.

I still need to send in my Sidewinder SCT.

 

[BudUMfan]

Leave it to me to totally overheat my ESC the very first time. I’m hoping it’s salvageable

 

[dure16]

Can you post the data log here?

 

[smirkracing]

what batteries did you run?

 

[BudUMfan]

No data log. I haven’t bought the link system yet. I ran 9600 mah 120c Zee batteries two at 4S. I’m certainly wasn’t smart about it!

 

[dure16]

No data log. I haven’t bought the link system yet.

Check your MMX8S box. It came with a coupon for free Castle link adapter.

 

[BudUMfan]

This was simply unbound. Whew!

 

[LibertyMKiii]

This was simply unbound. Whew!

Sorry I am late to the party.
Usually what I do in this situation is pull the rx and test on another car.
Then that will confirm where the issue is.

Glad you found it was the RX bind to the radio.

On a side note make 1 speed run. Take temps with an IR gun and then determine if it is cool enough to make another pass.
Making back to back runs is risky for the equipment.