Kraton Kraton metal upgrades?

[Josh nortz]

there is a guy making cnc parts for arrma vehicles. he has a aluminum diff housing not diff cup the housing the cup goes into in the works. I think he may have a prototype in testing rite now or very close. GKA is the company. it's one guy and he is expanding slowly. he has a parts distribution in the states now and is working on new high quality parts for the arrma line. the hot racing game
diff cup looks sweet and is definitely a good upgrade for the center diff.

 

[dpricenator]

I just pulled the trigger on the diff case and the bellcrank. I have to get into all those places to replace the bearings, diff fluid, and servo. So I figured, Why NOT?

 

[dpricenator]

I just realized that Voltage has the Steering rack upgrade, and it's on sale. So what the heck, I got one of those too. I figure if I can get 6 hours to myself, and don't run into issues, I can get this finished. So I should plan on at least 10 hours, because issues always seem to come up.

 

[Vanning]

Warning !!! do not get the HR motor mount. It aint right....I may send it back or just try and make it right.

I did my center diff with the HR metal diff case...It came out nice and smooth. I used Team Associated green slime around the O-rings and shimmed with Durango shims... I kept the stock pins...I've been bashing it hard and the pins never bust so why bother. I may pack the center diff bearings with some sort of grease....It seems like the one bearing that's on the spur gear side likes to destroy itself. It may need to be of better quality or maybe just packed with grease rather than light oil.

 

[dpricenator]

Thank you for the warning.

 

[crankestein]

I did my center diff with the HR metal diff case...It came out nice and smooth. I used Team Associated green slime around the O-rings and shimmed with Durango shims...

Just curious...

Compared to stock ARRMA diff shimming, What changes had to be made to correct the shimming?

Did you had premature wear, binding on the diff gears? I had never heard so much shimming shimming here and there. I got my Talion which has done tons of rolls, bad landings, run it on 6S wheeling for more than 30 feet, flipped back, etc, on stock shimming.

What are the specs on the Durango shims?

 

[Vanning]

Just curious...

Compared to stock ARRMA diff shimming, What changes had to be made to correct the shimming?

Did you had premature wear, binding on the diff gears? I had never heard so much shimming shimming here and there. I got my Talion which has done tons of rolls, bad landings, run it on 6S wheeling for more than 30 feet, flipped back, etc, on stock shimming.

What are the specs on the Durango shims?

I shimmed the diffs when my Kraton was brand new. I cleaned out all the oil, shimmed and assembled. Check, adjust, repeat. Then when they are good... fill with oil of choice.

 

[crankestein]

What is the difference between ARRMA stocks shims and Durango?

So you were not sure if the stock shims were fine after all?

Since I purchased mine about two weeks ago have gone thru about 20 packs, and now I am changing the oil in the center, and then the front just for tuning purposes. The diffs are shiny with no signs of wear, inspected with a macro camera lens.

I am not questioning your posting, but more so the fact if this shimming frenzy so much talked about in this forum.

And now I am about to work on the rear diff for more tuning, and seal the diff housing outer shell (not diff casing) w lots of grease as they get dirt accumulated inside.

 

[Trickelitrick]

arrma diffs planetary gears are not shimmed from factory afaik and there is a few millimetres play

 

[Vanning]

What is the difference between ARRMA stocks shims and Durango?

So you were not sure if the stock shims were fine after all?

Since I purchased mine about two weeks ago have gone thru about 20 packs, and now I am changing the oil in the center, and then the front just for tuning purposes. The diffs are shiny with no signs of wear, inspected with a macro camera lens.

I am not questioning your posting, but more so the fact if this shimming frenzy so much talked about in this forum.

And now I am about to work on the rear diff for more tuning, and seal the diff housing outer shell (not diff casing) w lots of grease as they get dirt accumulated inside.

It's what I do with all ready to run RC's and lots of other people in the hobby have been doing the same......I usually tear into them immediately after purchase. If I see something that isn't the way I like it...I'll decide to address it. Shimming RC diffs is very common, especially with 1/8 scale stuff. I've been into rc for over 30 years and have owned well over 100 rc vehicles. Everything I started out with was a kit and there were no ready to runs back in the day. I prefer a kit I build more than a RTR. However...Improving a ready to run is also fun. You may not have to do anything to your vehicle but some people, over time, like to have their stuff a certain way and they like their touches done to their RC's. It takes me a long time and a good hunk of money to get a RC the way I like it. You can choose to keep it as is...or you can go through it and get it the way you like. It's all part of the hobby and mechanics...a shimmed diff both internal and external is a better and stronger diff. Sometimes they are fine in a RTR, sometimes they are not. I also don't like the pin to run on the side of the diff case and the o-ring. My Kraton diffs never show seepage in that area...unlike other 1/10 RC's I have that are not shimmed. I have a degree in automotive technology and it rubs off on everything mechanical that I touch. It's just what I do. As of now....I'm cutting steel sleeves for the steering in a large scale I just got. The stock ones fell out so I'm cutting an improved set on a lathe...much more of a pain than shimming some diffs. However....the work will pay off in the long run when I'm out enjoying a well built machine with my kids. Shoot for bulletproof or as close as you can get is how I tackle the RC hobby.

 

[crankestein]

I asked the specs, and this is the 3rd time, but to each its own, about the shim dimensions before and after. I am not questioning the work performed on the diffs, but more so clarify that it is not needed. It is more than hype, and a cool wow factor on the forums. The 30 years in the hobby, you have a degree, that it costs a lot of money bla bla its pointless, does not justify the shimming, which is unnecessary.

Make it clear you statement is incorrect; and this is why I sometimes don't like forums. Yes its true, you are one of them, Are you saying it has no shims? Or is it the shimming IN YOUR APPLICATION is not shimmed correctly.

Do you have any pictures to show why it needed to be done?

From what it sounds like you just like to tinker with things, and there is nothing wrong with differentials.

The sentence below is referring to ALL ARRMA diffs, Are you speaking in behalf of a ARRMA rep? any emails to back it up? or that just your personal opinion?
You may feel uncomfortable to what I am posting and you should, but you also have to be aware what you are saying online, after all is your opinion and nothing else.

"arrma diffs planetary gears are not shimmed from factory afaik and there is a few millimetres play"

"Its a better and stronger diff"

**Why fix something that is not broken?"

It creates panic among the new crowd, as you can see some already asking they don't know how to shim, and what needs to be done. Listen people, THERE IS NO NEED TO SHIM the diffs, its HYPE, it sounds cool and thats about it.

 

[Vanning]

my point was clear bud.... I shim the diffs because it's what I do. You can do whatever you do. In my experience, I would recommend it. My point is, I like to do it. The Shim specs are posted on the item as advertised. You just need to search for the ones you need. Off hand, I don't remember the thickness. If you don't want to do it, stop worrying about it. I use the shims mostly so the pin rides against the smooth shim. The entire assembly has less play. Less play is a good thing and have come to realize that over the years. I tend to go over the diffs more than others may. I spent money on the aluminum HR diffs so why not ? There are 3 different shims in the diffs... there are the ones around the spider gears and the larger ones that can go under the pins (not included). Then there is the shim that is for the ring and pinion. Each vehicle may need different thickness. There is no set spec. Lots of people tend to add the larger internal shims that can go under the pins. Some people don't. One of the most extreme bashers known here will agree that it's a good idea. Thomas P. He has some good tips for these cars.... if you don't agree, it's all good. Hope that helps.... if not, at least I tried to help. Why are these shims even made if people don't need them ? Why are they sold out also ? Shimming diffs is common for people building RC's.

 

[crankestein]

You got defensive real quick and is for a reason.

I am glad you enjoy tinkering with things, and set things to your liking, whatever floats your boat...

ARRMA diffs planetary gears are not shimmed from factory afaik and there is a few millimeters play

But to say the above, thats a big INCORRECT statement, and way too general as if ALL are that way. You keep rambling on trying to put some credibility to the work done, and after all there is nothing to back it besides the real fact its a cool hype line to post on RC forums.

Once again, THERE IS NO NEED TO SHIM THE DIFFS, don't fix what aint broken. Follow ARRMA service intervals, use high quality oil and go out play.

 

[Vanning]

The diffs are too loose for a new rc for some people. Some people like them to be tighter and let them wear in from there. That's the point of the shims. It's all a matter of opinion and what you want to do. A huge part of RC is tinkering. Shimming the diffs and adding hardened steel pins is just something that was done by many here. Take what you want from the opinions and suggestions. If you don't like it, no need to say people are getting defensive when they clearly are not. I see why your forum name is Crankenstein. Makes sense. Using shims to put diffs together is common practice. Running a ready to run as is ....also fine also. To each his own. I agree. Sometimes diffs blow apart due to extra play. That play is a matter of personal taste and experience. The feel of the stock Kraton was too loose for my liking. So I started from scratch with various shims. Like I have done in the past.

My boat floats, yours is sinking.

 

[crankestein]

RC enthusiasts can do and say whatever they want, but it also lends itself for others to make their own input and make/ clarify what others have posted.

ARRMA / Hobbico differentials come shimmed from factory.

You state you are not getting defensive, and you just stated a negative remark about my last name, which does not make any sense to make it worst.

I am still curious, What is that part number for the Durango shims you so call talk about?

Everything I am asking you I already know, I want to see if your 30 years of experience and your degree pays off...

 

[Vanning]

Google search or search the forum for all the info already posted on the diffs. It's all old news and has been covered. Like anything else... form your own opinion on what you think.
I wasnt getting defensive, I was simply making fun of you. It's just something else I like to do with defensive people. It's all in good nature.
I've always spent time on adjusting diffs to how I like...it's like a science and everyone has their own way. Been doing it for over 30 years.
I've also run stuff out of the box and didn't care what it did. Then when it came time to rebuild... spent extra time on setting up gears. They do last longer and bust less. If I was new to all this.... I would not give any opinion or suggest anything. My point.... ready to runs are not put together as well as a kit, over the years I have learned what works best for longevity and less breakage. No hard feelings..... just my honest opinion. Enjoy.

 

[Trickelitrick]

I know some don't have any problems while quite many have problems with the diffs....especially on 6s. And sure no need to fix something not broken but if someone has problems with broken gear inside diff then i would try shimming as a first option.

 

[crankestein]

* Baja 5B differntial, FACTORY SHIMMING! Have broken rear upper arms, turnbuckles from jumping, bent shocks, diffs, still new. I have a Turtle Racing billet diff case and have not installed as there is no need for it.

* King Motor X2, AKA "Losi 5ive clone" FACTORY SHIMMING! 30.5CC ported engine with aftermarket pipe, all diffs good, no failures.

* Blackout Pro, FACTORY SHIMMING!
Have maxed out the ESC on 3S, no filures.

* .26 ported v2 engine, dual chamber pipe, 20% nitro, 5 years with the same diffs, FACTORY SHIMMING!

* GReedy .21 ported dual chamber pipe, aluminum clutch shoes, 20% nitro, FACTORY SHIMMING!

* ARRMA Talion, diff gears after more than 20 battery packs, 5S and 6S, FACTORY SHIMMING!

The gearboxes on all the AEGs have been shimmed, minus the tan one, which runs flawlessly like it is (extremely butterly smooth and accurate). In airsoft, its a must as QC is very bad from factory.

***

 

[dpricenator]

At the worst, Shimming the differentials unnecessarily, will give new guys the knowledge of how the differential works, what parts are in there, etc. The more knowledge they have the more apt they are to be able to make decisions, like whether or not to shim their diffs. At the end of the day, a differential with play in it is going to cause gears to slam against each other, which may be why we see broken gear photos on the site. Maybe it all comes down to driving style and has nothing to do with the shims. Landing 10 foot jumps with the throttle slammed back is going to break gears no matter if they are shimmed. At the end of the day, you are making a huge stand here saying DON’T DO IT, and all you have done is slow down the learning curve for some who might have spent the $7 for shims and the 1.5 hours it’ll take em to do all 3 diffs. Like any of us on here don’t already like working on RC cars in the first place.

 

[crankestein]

All the above applications are with factory spec shims.

SHIMMING IS NOT NEEDED! ITS HYPE FORUM TALK!