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It wil prob eat the plastic.. Better to use superglueMy sons notorious loosens all 4 up after one full charge through. I’m going to try red locktite.
I don’t think it’s a sealant. It lubes the threads so you can get a fitting tighter. The actual threads of a pipe are what make a seal.Good luck.
Teflon tape is also a sealant. I'm hoping it binds up the threads. And reversible if it fails.
Thread locker any color with plastics is a no go. Having used TL for years in the automotive field, taught me what TL can and cannot be used for.CA glue or E6000... Don't waste loctite on metal to plastic.
I agree with you.I don’t think it’s a sealant. It lubes the threads so you can get a fitting tighter. The actual threads of a pipe are what make a seal.
For that matter you can also use a 2 part epoxy. ( JB Weld ) Yet we never consider the disassembly of the Pillow ball from the arms. Until that time comes due to a broken arm.It wil prob eat the plastic.. Better to use superglue
Alrighty, an RCer that likes the cheap solutions like I do.????Ok. I’m going to cross thread them. I have lots of spares if it goes south. Lol.
5-7minutes isn’t a marathon but it’s far from a minute man ?General question: Has this been an issue on prior versions of the Kraton? Or other platforms? Given that ARRMA has made improvements over the various generations, it seems weird to me that this would appear on V4 but not earlier, unless they altered that part of the design for V4. And if it appeared earlier, why is it still an unaddressed issue?
PS My test of ptfe tape on the pillow ball threads was interrupted by something else falling off. Lower right front hub nut, which holds the hub carrier onto the pillow ball, is now in a field somewhere. I only had about 5-7 minutes run time before I noticed that I lost my nut*, but it looks successful so far.
*Make of that what you will.
With all the options stated above, why have we determined "cross threading" the PB to the arms is an acceptable option?
Not.
I don't think I will explain why. It should be obvious for several reasons. I will take that as a joke and move on.
PB' s pulling out and PB lock nuts backing out has been a nuisance for all versions. That V4 red locknut with the O-ring hasn't improved anything. The o-ring is too thin and is placed at the end of the threads. It's done all wrong. Hence the continued issues. These are design flaws that Arrma better address. But I get it, aftermarket support is supposed to pick up the slack.
For me personally, I was never a fan of Pillow ball suspensions. In any kit. TLR have a better PB design. Picture yourself racing and you DNF because your PB suspension comes apart. Team Drivers would never accept that. Should we as bashers accept that.
Absolutely Not!
And we are dealing with it here all the time. Time to go aftermarket. And that is costly to remedy these issues.
It always appears that glue is the answer to everything that is defective or broken. LOLStuff backs out. I fixed the issue on my Kraton with 4 drops of glue. No RC is immune to this kinda stuff. Jeez, people.
That depends on how you like your wheel alignment. It is not necessary however. It merely shims out your camber/caster depending where you place them.Threads seem to be okay. Thanks for tip though I was aware of threadlocker doing that. Is the fork washer necessary?
TL is acidic. If we know that it is not appropriate for plastic, why use it.I understand Loctite is bad for plastics.
E6000 adhesive. Just make sure the pre-load is correct before the E6000 dries. If you attempt to change the preload after drying, you have to repeat the process all over again. Then it gets messy. E6000 can be daunting to clean up. Especially in these specific areas. And make absolutely sure No E6000 gets near the PB's rotating surface. A dab will do ya. That's all you need.I removed both the top and bottom spacers, added a bit of CA glue to the threads before threading it in, and I haven't had issues with that.
Now the hub nuts...I've been losing those like crazy no matter what I do.
Cross threading will alter the PB angle at the Arms to some extent. Perhaps some don't mind, but I am a purist and feel it matters.Ok. I’m going to cross thread them. I have lots of spares if it goes south. Lol.
I was joking. I applied some urethane on the threads. I’ll know this weekend how it worked.Cross threading will alter the PB angle at the Arms to some extent. Perhaps some don't mind, but I am a purist and feel it matters.
I don't "intentionally" cross thread ANYTHING.
General question: Has this been an issue on prior versions of the Kraton? Or other platforms? Given that ARRMA has made improvements over the various generations, it seems weird to me that this would appear on V4 but not earlier, unless they altered that part of the design for V4. And if it appeared earlier, why is it still an unaddressed issue?
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