Ive had this new Infraction for about 20 days now and just recently finished the build thread. Took my time on this and I think it came out great. Full mod/ part list below with more detailed build info.
Full mod/ upgrade/ part list:
DAY 3:
Day 3 started with receiving the aluminum plate I had ordered from Amazon. It was perfect for what I needed it for. I basically just copied the spacer it comes with so it would have 2. This made the heat sink fit perfectly. I then installed the Hobbystar fans and tidied it all up with heat shrink. The motor fan install came out very clean. I then installed the Hot Racing upper diff plate, the DS3225 servo which fit perfect with no need for spacers, and the Hot Racing steering link. Then installed all the body plastics, the body posts, then routed, heat shrank, and zip tied all the wires for a clean install.
DAY 4:
I soldered all the IC5 connectors onto the new batteries, then fixed all the badly applied decals. There were several that were barely on. Another short day.
DAY 5:
I took apart the shocks and put in new fresh 2000cst oil with the new Hot Racing shock caps. I was going to use the Tekno shock ends but they didnt fit without some dremeling so I stayed stock. I Also installed the new 5 piece skid plate set which came out great and should protect the chassis fairly well.
DAY 6:
This day was dedicated to the body. Although I know this really didnt need a lot of reinforcing I went ahead and did the entire body with dry wall tape and “Amazing Goop”. Which is basically the exact same thing as shoe goo, but it was out everywhere around me and thankfully O'Reillys stocks the “goop”. I ended up running out before I finished so I tried another brand of Auto goop from Autozone. And even though they are labeled as the same stuff the stuff I got from Autozone has acetone in it. And unfortunately I put some on the body and it immediately damaged a small area of the paint. So when I finally got some more of the right stuff I was able to “fix” this. Its hardly noticeable, but I know its there so it “bugs” me. If you know what I mean.
DAY 7:
This was the last day of build and it was all about installing body LEDs. I used the same ones I installed in my Kraton EXB but these are red Halos. They have a built in switch to turn on just the Halo lights, or the Halos and the brighter ones. I also installed from smaller red ones in the rear as “brake” lights. I got these all wired up and hot glued just like all the other ones. I have a wire lead with a JST connector running from the receiver, then the other end is on the body. So when I install the body I just plug the connectors together and have lights! These also came out great and look awesome.
BUILD END and FINAL PICS:
This was the end of the build. It came out awesome. Im pretty much done and other than basic maintenance and parts I have no other plans as of now. I had originally planned on using my Flysky FS-GT5 for this but decided not to because of the handbrake. The FS-GT5 does have several other open channels I could have used but none of them operate like the DX3's 3rd channel does. So Im sticking with the stock radio.
Full mod/ upgrade/ part list:
- Batteries: Ordered 6 HOOVO 3s 5200mah 60C packs and installed new IC5 connectors
- Body LEDs: Installed red Halo ones with smaller rear reds with Halo switcher
- GPM front and rear black aluminum chassis braces (MAF016FR-BK)
- GPM Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Mount Black (MAK009-BK)
- GPM Aluminum rear chassis brace collar (MAF016R/C)
- DS3225 35kg servo
- EXB Aluminum upper steering plate (ARA320598)
- EXB Aluminum front upper suspension mount with pins (ARA330659)
- EXB Aluminum steering rack (ARA340174)
- Hot Racing Aluminum Fixed Link Steering 25T Servo Arm 1/8 (AON48SH25)
- Hot Racing Aluminum Center Differential EZM Mount BLX 6S (ANN38A02)
- Hot Racing Aluminum Center Differential Cover EZM Mount BXL 6S (ANN38C01)
- Hot Racing Arrma 6S Aluminum Bleeder Shock Caps (AON156AX01)
- Motor Fans Aluminum heat sink with dual Hobbystar fans
- 5 piece aluminum skid plate set
DAY 1:
After unboxing and looking everything over I disassembled basically the entire truck. Once I was down to a bare chassis I installed the 2 GPM front and rear suspension mounts onto the diff cases. I then decided to give the diffs a look and one of the screws holding the diff together stripped. So I used my dremel to make a slot and was able to remove it with a flat head screwdriver. Then I put fresh Team Factory diff fluids in all 3 diffs. (30K front, 500K center, and 60K rear). I then installed the EXB front steering plate and EXB upper suspension mount and steering rack. While installing the steering I went ahead and put new sealed bearings in the steering replacing the bushings. I started to install the motor fans but ran into an issue I was expecting which is the heat sink is too loose on the V5 motors. It must be a smaller diameter. I only had one aluminum spacer that came with the kit and that wasnt enough. So I ordered a sheet of aluminum from Amazon to make my own.
DAY 2:
I installed the diff cases and lubed the gears with my go to Red 'N' Tacky grease. Installed the front and rear A-Arms. Then the Hot Racing upper and lower center diff parts. Then the GPM front and rear chassis braces. Wasnt really feeling into the build so this day was cut a bit short.
DAY 3:
Day 3 started with receiving the aluminum plate I had ordered from Amazon. It was perfect for what I needed it for. I basically just copied the spacer it comes with so it would have 2. This made the heat sink fit perfectly. I then installed the Hobbystar fans and tidied it all up with heat shrink. The motor fan install came out very clean. I then installed the Hot Racing upper diff plate, the DS3225 servo which fit perfect with no need for spacers, and the Hot Racing steering link. Then installed all the body plastics, the body posts, then routed, heat shrank, and zip tied all the wires for a clean install.
DAY 4:
I soldered all the IC5 connectors onto the new batteries, then fixed all the badly applied decals. There were several that were barely on. Another short day.
DAY 5:
I took apart the shocks and put in new fresh 2000cst oil with the new Hot Racing shock caps. I was going to use the Tekno shock ends but they didnt fit without some dremeling so I stayed stock. I Also installed the new 5 piece skid plate set which came out great and should protect the chassis fairly well.
DAY 6:
This day was dedicated to the body. Although I know this really didnt need a lot of reinforcing I went ahead and did the entire body with dry wall tape and “Amazing Goop”. Which is basically the exact same thing as shoe goo, but it was out everywhere around me and thankfully O'Reillys stocks the “goop”. I ended up running out before I finished so I tried another brand of Auto goop from Autozone. And even though they are labeled as the same stuff the stuff I got from Autozone has acetone in it. And unfortunately I put some on the body and it immediately damaged a small area of the paint. So when I finally got some more of the right stuff I was able to “fix” this. Its hardly noticeable, but I know its there so it “bugs” me. If you know what I mean.
DAY 7:
This was the last day of build and it was all about installing body LEDs. I used the same ones I installed in my Kraton EXB but these are red Halos. They have a built in switch to turn on just the Halo lights, or the Halos and the brighter ones. I also installed from smaller red ones in the rear as “brake” lights. I got these all wired up and hot glued just like all the other ones. I have a wire lead with a JST connector running from the receiver, then the other end is on the body. So when I install the body I just plug the connectors together and have lights! These also came out great and look awesome.
BUILD END and FINAL PICS:
This was the end of the build. It came out awesome. Im pretty much done and other than basic maintenance and parts I have no other plans as of now. I had originally planned on using my Flysky FS-GT5 for this but decided not to because of the handbrake. The FS-GT5 does have several other open channels I could have used but none of them operate like the DX3's 3rd channel does. So Im sticking with the stock radio.
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