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Trying to cram it in there. Having to cut the lip off the esc holder. Trying to find best place for the switch. My wires fro the motor are short just a hair longer than the can. Having to make extenders.https://www.arrmaforum.com/media/kraton-chassis.3301/
I went with the max 6 because it can handle more current. Being a bigger esc I’m sure it’ll handle amp draw better than the max 8. The more max current you can draw the easier the setup will be on electronics. So hopefully no fires.
It’s very tight by max 6 and 4092 both fit fine. It’s incredible power too!
Trying to cram it in there. Having to cut the lip off the esc holder. Trying to find best place for the switch.
I haven't found double stick tape that holds anything in place for very long. Still have to ziptie my esc down or it will shift on a bad lawn dart landing.I used double stick tape and put it inside the chassis guard.
I haven't found double stick tape that holds anything in place for very long. Still have to ziptie my esc down or it will shift on a bad lawn dart landing.
I think the stuff I had was 3M automotive emblem tape. I use it, but I still use a ziptie as well on my small esc's and on my savage, I use a ziptie going each direction, so it's in an X of zips. I had it come off and smack into the spur gear once on a lawn dart landing. That was with one ziptie and double stick tape.It’s a super old roll of 3M foam double stick. It’s turned kinda yellow from age. Still holds well. I mean for 2 packs so far. And yes the dual lock Velcro has definitely let go of the esc when I crash bad.
I think the stuff I had was 3M automotive emblem tape. I use it, but I still use a ziptie as well on my small esc's and on my savage, I use a ziptie going each direction, so it's in an X of zips. I had it come off and smack into the spur gear once on a lawn dart landing. That was with one ziptie and double stick tape.
I tried using that on my stampede 4x4 with the castle esc switch. Didn't hold for long and I ended up just cutting the switch off and soldering the wires together. Not sure how to do that with the HW/arrma type esc's that have the set button as part of the switch. Guessing you have to figure something out to keep it. If it comes loose and slaps around too much, could rip the thing off the esc. Then your really stuck.Well the switch is the only thing I double stick taped. It weighs nothing so it’ll prob stay put if I don’t get it wet. The esc is heavy and I bet it would fly off. Mine is kinda trapped under the body support tower.
I tried using that on my stampede 4x4 with the castle esc switch. Didn't hold for long and I ended up just cutting the switch off and soldering the wires together. Not sure how to do that with the HW/arrma type esc's that have the set button as part of the switch. Guessing you have to figure something out to keep it. If it comes loose and slaps around too much, could rip the thing off the esc. Then your really stuck.
Shoe goo it to a dense piece of foam and shoe goo it to inside chassis guard.I haven't found double stick tape that holds anything in place for very long. Still have to ziptie my esc down or it will shift on a bad lawn dart landing.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/media/kraton-chassis.3301/
I went with the max 6 because it can handle more current. Being a bigger esc I’m sure it’ll handle amp draw better than the max 8. The more max current you can draw the easier the setup will be on electronics. So hopefully no fires.
It’s very tight by max 6 and 4092 both fit fine. It’s incredible power too!
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