Limitless My Limitless Build

[Edough13]

Yes to me it just seems that would be a stress point for issues. Kinda like the 3s lineup driveshafts don't break the shaft itself but where the connection is to either the axel or outdrive. Like I said though it has been tested and proven to work well and I'm sure a lot of testing and ingenuity went into it as well so hopefully it will hold up to 130-150mph torque and speed as my ultimate goal for this year is to get as close to 150mph as I can with the Limitless. I'm very hopeful and think I can achieve it with hitting 120's with the Spektrum motor and on 6s still as well. I think my biggest worry is switching to foams and having to get used to a lot less traction and then I always worry about loosing signal at the end of a pass.

 

[rotauq]

The Pinocchio rear is much ticker than your average shaft (7mm at the cup) and it's stiff/fixed point as it's locked in the bearings. Stress there is neglectable compared to the torsion exposed (too) long shaft.

Switching to foams is gonna be a shocker indeed

 

[LibertyMKiii]

There is an option #2 for the Pinocchio shaft. I am not certain if Flo-Packs came up with this first or Scortched, but it has been around for a while and seems to have decent reviews?
(as far as I can tell the carbon is just a sleeve that functions as a spacer to hold the bearings in place.)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARRMA-LIMITLESS-INFRACTION-FELONY-SPOOLS-RED-CARBON-FIBER/224261855157?hash=item34370c57b5:g:llUAAOSw5ydfx~-I

I think this setup would be sufficient for any 1/7 Arrma running under 120 mph.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

Yes to me it just seems that would be a stress point for issues. Kinda like the 3s lineup driveshafts don't break the shaft itself but where the connection is to either the axel or outdrive. Like I said though it has been tested and proven to work well and I'm sure a lot of testing and ingenuity went into it as well so hopefully it will hold up to 130-150mph torque and speed as my ultimate goal for this year is to get as close to 150mph as I can with the Limitless. I'm very hopeful and think I can achieve it with hitting 120's with the Spektrum motor and on 6s still as well. I think my biggest worry is switching to foams and having to get used to a lot less traction and then I always worry about loosing signal at the end of a pass.

Yea I am still deciding on tires, for now the Hoons will do until I get more comfy with the car. Even though its setup for 8S I am going to start with a single 4S, then a 6S and when I feel she is dialed in (at least to my standards LOL) then I will play with the 8S. Last night I decided to order some SMC batteries, https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_96&product_id=549

For the price point these are worth a shot, I was considering CNHL but chatted with a guy last night and he had good things to say about them and other reviews were spot on as well. I noticed today they are out of stock so I'm hoping since they showed In Stock last night I do not get an Out of Stock email

 

[Edough13]

Yea I am still deciding on tires, for now the Hoons will do until I get more comfy with the car. Even though its setup for 8S I am going to start with a single 4S, then a 6S and when I feel she is dialed in (at least to my standards LOL) then I will play with the 8S. Last night I decided to order some SMC batteries, https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_96&product_id=549

For the price point these are worth a shot, I was considering CNHL but chatted with a guy last night and he had good things to say about them and other reviews were spot on as well. I noticed today they are out of stock so I'm hoping since they showed In Stock last night I do not get an Out of Stock email

Ya I've considered some SMC's but I've had amazing results with my CNHL packs and I can always get ahold of Kevin at CNHL for coupons. Think my 6s 90c Racing Series pack I paid like $65 shipped and my two 4s 90c Racing Series packs I paid like $101 shipped so can't beat the price there

 

[claytonbakerjr]

Ya I've considered some SMC's but I've had amazing results with my CNHL packs and I can always get ahold of Kevin at CNHL for coupons. Think my 6s 90c Racing Series pack I paid like $65 shipped and my two 4s 90c Racing Series packs I paid like $101 shipped so can't beat the price there

OMG seriously thats a great price, pays to have a Kevin on your side hehe, I have a few 6S packs from CNHL and honestly love them but the SMC's price tag got my attention for sure.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

Just attached my Cap Pack and so I just learned something that finally sunk in.
Earlier in another post, possibly one you guys, that stated he would plug in a 4S pack, unplug, and then
plug in his higher voltage pack (6S or 8S).
Now I understand what he meant. I plugged in a 4S pack just a tad little pop, then unplugged, then discharged the
cap pack by flipping on the switch, fan cycled and was done.
I then plugged in the 6S pack got a little louder pop then unplugged then plugged it back in...no pop at all.
Again repeated the process, 4S then 6S no pop.
Now I am beginning to understand how a cap pack can help reduce electrical issues.
Sounds like a good habit to do when cycling higher voltage packs, pre-stage the capacitors and
then plug in the ball busters Most of you probably already knew this but like I mentioned, this is an Adventure
So I'm a Newb ok

 

[claytonbakerjr]

So has anyone heard of a place named 4G Hobbies or have done business with them?

Ok last question for the night I promise
If you were to build your own Cap Pack regardless of voltage and capacity what
would you look for in a capacitor? I have always used Panasonic low ESR's
on my race drones and wings. Does the same type still apply to high voltage race cars?


I just noticed something, is there a limit of per day posts a member can post in his on threads?

 

[rotauq]

I have no pops at all due to my antispark system

It's indeed all about low ESR properties, same as with drones. It's the same ripple that distorts you VTX
You just need more capacity in comparison due to way more power. Which is beyond the max capacity a single low ESR cap, that why you need multiple parallel caps.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

So has anyone heard of a place named 4G Hobbies or have done business with them?

Ok last question for the night I promise
If you were to build your own Cap Pack regardless of voltage and capacity what
would you look for in a capacitor? I have always used Panasonic low ESR's
on my race drones and wings. Does the same type still apply to high voltage race cars?


I just noticed something, is there a limit of per day posts a member can post in his on threads?

I have heard of 4G hobbies. I don't think I have purchased from them but I know people who have.

Given your interest in 3d printing I would highly recommend making your own capacitor pack. I also always use 35v low ESR Panasonic caps in mine.
I would say something in the neighborhood of 12,000 uF is good. My last one is 21k and it is a little overkill

3 Piece design and left the tops exposed so you can see when a cap is going bad.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

I have no pops at all due to my antispark system

It's indeed all about low ESR properties, same as with drones. It's the same ripple that distorts you VTX
You just need more capacity in comparison due to way more power. Which is beyond the max capacity a single low ESR cap, that why you need multiple parallel caps.

I may have to venture into that "Anti Spark" thing a ma bob you use LOL
Yea that was another reason we started popping Caps on our FC leads to improve video
and the use of the filter worked well too. Especially once we went 6S.
I did find a thread where yourself and @LibertyMKiii posted some info.
Seems as if the "general" number to hit is 6000uf more is better if space is available.
I really want to build my own since I also love to solder but one thing I would like to do
is drop the caps into a PCB board, however either my search queries stink or I
just flat cannot find them. They use to make brake a part PCB boards which had no circuitry
on them, just the base board with pre-drilled holes. Any thoughts?

I have heard of 4G hobbies. I don't think I have purchased from them but I know people who have.

Given your interest in 3d printing I would highly recommend making your own capacitor pack. I also always use 35v low ESR Panasonic caps in mine.
I would say something in the neighborhood of 12,000 uF is good. My last one is 21k and it is a little overkill

3 Piece design and left the tops exposed so you can see when a cap is going bad.
View attachment 137606View attachment 137607View attachment 137608View attachment 137609

Yes I found another thread you interacted with this morning. So the thread indicated 6000uf was a good start point
and your saying that 12000uf is a better alternative? Just curious and want to learn.
As per 3d printing which I can do, do the Caps get hot?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I may have to venture into that "Anti Spark" thing a ma bob you use LOL
Yea that was another reason we started popping Caps on our FC leads to improve video
and the use of the filter worked well too. Especially once we went 6S.
I did find a thread where yourself and @LibertyMKiii posted some info.
Seems as if the "general" number to hit is 6000uf more is better if space is available.
I really want to build my own since I also love to solder but one thing I would like to do
is drop the caps into a PCB board, however either my search queries stink or I
just flat cannot find them. They use to make brake a part PCB boards which had no circuitry
on them, just the base board with pre-drilled holes. Any thoughts?

I was able to find basic PCB board on Europe eBay, but like you had that same trouble finding the basic board without metal on it. I just ended up 3Dprinting what I needed as seen in the post above.

I would say anything in the 6k to 12k range is good. It really depends on your ESC. Back in the days of the first gen XLX you needed allot of capacitance. Now with the XLX2 it isn't as significant due to re-design and built in capacitors. The MMX8s seems to be in the middle where it still gets some ripple issues. Batteries and the motor also play a part in this.

Caps generally do not get hot, but when they start to go bad, in most cases the silver top of the cap will swell. After building your capacitor pack charge it up with a LiPo and measure with a multi-meter how long it takes to discharge. This will give you a baseline to compare to later on.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

I was able to find basic PCB board on Europe eBay, but like you had that same trouble finding the basic board without metal on it. I just ended up 3Dprinting what I needed as seen in the post above.

I found some Pan FM Series 35v 1800uf Low Imp that I may dabble with. Unless of course the smaller 1000's are better for the task?
Looks like its time to design a PCB board lol

Another thing I was wondering about while I laid counting sheep was even though its likely not needed could one
use a strip of lets say 12g solid copper wire for a more solid solder line?

​

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I found some Pan FM Series 35v 1800uf Low Imp that I may dabble with. Unless of course the smaller 1000's are better for the task?
Looks like its time to design a PCB board lol

​

I like the larger 1800s myself.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

If Mouser's dimensions are correct this is close to what it will look like with 6 caps equaling 10800
I may make the base a tad thicker and print it in PETG to help reduce any or as much melting during
soldering but that will be negatable.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

So here I am again, asking questions
So I know that gearing is crucial to hitting those top speeds.
My setup will be running the stock gearing (Pinion and Spool) that came with the Limit.
I will be taking @LibertyMKiii lead on the Silly Putty for the diff's as well
My combo is the Castle MMX8S/1650Kv
I also realize that Gearing and KV play a big part since I see fella's like @LibertyMKiii running
awesome speeds on 2S setups.....
I also understand with my setup the Limit should be more than able to hit 100mph.
For a more distant future what would those of you recommend moving to, to comfortably
gain more speed without really being able to make eggs on my motor/esc?
Gearing is the one aspect I honestly lack knowledge on and would be delighted to read
anything to learn more.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

It really is best to run the car, pull data logs and use the data to help determine what next move to make. We are here to help you dissect the logs.
I'd estimate on the MMX8s 1650kv 34t/27t setup you can crack 110mph. Depending how the voltage drop looks and amperage draw then you move onto the next gearing choice.

There is quite a learning curve on pulling the throttle aggressively enough to reach full throttle, while maintaining enough grip at the same time. It takes practice to get the "feel" for it. I usually make a low voltage 4s or 6s pass before making an 8s pass to "warm up".

Crashes absolutely happen and please be prepared for it. It can be defeating to spend months prepping a car only to go out and crash.
Having a good road without obstructions for when the car does go off the road makes the difference of an $80 repair versus a $600 repair.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

It really is best to run the car, pull data logs and use the data to help determine what next move to make. We are here to help you dissect the logs.
I'd estimate on the MMX8s 1650kv 34t/27t setup you can crack 110mph. Depending how the voltage drop looks and amperage draw then you move onto the next gearing choice.

There is quite a learning curve on pulling the throttle aggressively enough to reach full throttle, while maintaining enough grip at the same time. It takes practice to get the "feel" for it. I usually make a low voltage 4s or 6s pass before making an 8s pass to "warm up".

Crashes absolutely happen and please be prepared for it. It can be defeating to spend months prepping a car only to go out and crash.
Having a good road without obstructions for when the car does go off the road makes the difference of an $80 repair versus a $600 repair.

Oh I absolutely agree.
I have no near plans on even breaching 100mph or anything close without a lot of prep work, tweaking, practice and logs. (which I need to learn)
This is a whole different kind of an animal for me and will not jump in head first. Yes I want to drive her but have zero intentions
of trying to do anything stupid out of the gate.
My son (35 years old) after seeing my cars and the years I have been into flying and such, went out and grabbed a new Granite 3S BLX.
I forewarned him to take it slow and learn the car, yet 2 days later showing off in front of his coworkers he came back to me with 3 broken arms one badly bent shock and 3 tires that looked as if he sliced them up with a razor knife...then said WTF is wrong with this thing. I sat him down like a 12 year old (again) and said "You are the problem with this car". Well he didn't care for that so much but sucked it up and purchased replacement parts. To date he has not brought it back for repairs
As per Crashes, when I got into the hobby several years ago I will admit that at 1st it was devastating but got to a point of acceptance, at that point my skillset changed dramatically and crashes were more far and in between.
Grant it, a single Race drone does not come close to the investment a Limitless has but when we raced we always had 2 or 3 more identical setups.
In this case, there are no identical setups
I have been since the purchase of the Limit, looking, searching for that one "spot", to date I am still searching. Most areas will suffice for practice and that learning curve but I wouldn't by any means do flat out speed runs on them.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Oh I absolutely agree.
I have no near plans on even breaching 100mph or anything close without a lot of prep work, tweaking, practice and logs. (which I need to learn)
This is a whole different kind of an animal for me and will not jump in head first. Yes I want to drive her but have zero intentions
of trying to do anything stupid out of the gate.
My son (35 years old) after seeing my cars and the years I have been into flying and such, went out and grabbed a new Granite 3S BLX.
I forewarned him to take it slow and learn the car, yet 2 days later showing off in front of his coworkers he came back to me with 3 broken arms one badly bent shock and 3 tires that looked as if he sliced them up with a razor knife...then said WTF is wrong with this thing. I sat him down like a 12 year old (again) and said "You are the problem with this car". Well he didn't care for that so much but sucked it up and purchased replacement parts. To date he has not brought it back for repairs
As per Crashes, when I got into the hobby several years ago I will admit that at 1st it was devastating but got to a point of acceptance, at that point my skillset changed dramatically and crashes were more far and in between.
Grant it, a single Race drone does not come close to the investment a Limitless has but when we raced we always had 2 or 3 more identical setups.
In this case, there are no identical setups
I have been since the purchase of the Limit, looking, searching for that one "spot", to date I am still searching. Most areas will suffice for practice and that learning curve but I wouldn't by any means do flat out speed runs on them.

It sounds like you have a good plan to start out this speed venture.

I have reached a point where I don't like anyone watching or with me when I run. It is too much of a distraction. Plus if I crash and no one is there it is only myself who knows about it

A great road makes all the difference...

I am now building the 200 + project because I got access to a 4000' runway. Otherwise I'd probably still be running Arrma cars. It is safe to say that you need around 100 to 150 ft per 10 mph. My local 1000' road is only good for 90 to 100mph and even that is a little shorter than I would like for the braking zone at the end of the run.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

It sounds like you have a good plan to start out this speed venture.

I have reached a point where I don't like anyone watching or with me when I run. It is too much of a distraction. Plus if I crash and no one is there it is only myself who knows about it

A great road makes all the difference...

I am now building the 200 + project because I got access to a 4000' runway. Otherwise I'd probably still be running Arrma cars. It is safe to say that you need around 100 to 150 ft per 10 mph. My local 1000' road is only good for 90 to 100mph and even that is a little shorter than I would like for the braking zone at the end of the run.

Thanks... that's good info to know. I was wondering about distance overall start to finish.
LOL I don't mind people but tend to worry more about their safety more than anything
and have to admit, I have had a few "Maidens" that ended UGLY with people around....within minutes
I was wearing the Clown hat LOL