Nylon prints warps bad and just wont stick

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well, Creality support wasn’t a big help!

I contacted Creality via chat and asked them about problems with printing nylon. Their statement was that the K1 Max does not support nylon, as stated on their website :unsure:

Chinese corporate marketing..

What they Show and Write/verbage doesn't really hold up..
Or they like to Backtrack their product's specs / promises after the Sales..

I'm guessing that's all the "help" you received.
Just a statement of what the printer doesn't support...
 
I'm guessing that's all the "help" you received.
Just a statement of what the printer doesn't support...

Wel i received more info, but highly unusable info! after asking me what i am trying to print, i told them RC parts that need some impact resistance, he/she advices me to use PLA :unsure:.
as i remember PLA is not Impact proof. correct me if i am wrong.
 
Wel i received more info, but highly unusable info! after asking me what i am trying to print, i told them RC parts that need some impact resistance, he/she advices me to use PLA :unsure:.
as i remember PLA is not Impact proof. correct me if i am wrong.

Haha..
Their tech support aren't true RC Bashers are they..?

Well depends on the Scale of RC or other non-impact functions ,right...?
If they are referring to a Grom, Granite etc.. Or for fan shrouds/adaptors, mudguards, wings etc.

You can use PLA Max or Tough PLA




I've even used Flexible PLA custom made by a small Texas company - Ataraxia.

Screenshot_20240215-083759.png


But I haven't produced any Bumpers or bumper springs/dampers with them... yet
-to test durability.

They are easy to print with and flexible.
I Would advise to use Blue painter's tape, because they tend to bond to bare build plate Really well...
Just a heads up.
 
Last edited:
@Camaroboy383

Unfortunately this was the result of the gcode.
Looks like it got warped during printing and came lose...

View attachment 348644

View attachment 348645


Maybe crazy idea, but just to rule out the slicing software i tried with ORCA slicer, exact same output


That is correct what creality said, the k1 does not support nylons due to the lack of heated chamber.. but the easy nylon is definitely different ..

So me a favor and flip the part over.. take a picture of the first layer...

Was there any glue on the bed surface? Nylon inherently doesn't stick to anything.. try a thin layer of pvp glue...

This very well could be a wet batch of filament..
 
First kind of succesfull print:
I changed initial layer height to 0.28 and the first layer width to 0.72. And lowered the initial layer speed to 15!
The benchy took hour and 15 minutes.

20240215_164909.jpg


20240215_164900.jpg


That is correct what creality said, the k1 does not support nylons due to the lack of heated chamber.. but the easy nylon is definitely different ..

So me a favor and flip the part over.. take a picture of the first layer...

Was there any glue on the bed surface? Nylon inherently doesn't stick to anything.. try a thin layer of pvp glue...

This very well could be a wet batch of filament..
No i didnt use any glue.
 

Attachments

  • 20240215_170434.jpg
    20240215_170434.jpg
    520.8 KB · Views: 21
Last edited:
First kind of succesfull print:
I changed initial layer height to 0.28 and the first layer width to 0.72. And lowered the initial layer speed to 15!
The benchy took hour and 15 minutes.

View attachment 348662

View attachment 348663


No i didnt use any glue.



Glue is a must... Maybe we missed that from the beginning... Use the glue stick they provided with the machine.. after you apply it, use a wet paper towel to dilute and spread it thin...

I just tossed the same file I sent you in mine.. printing no problem.. even at 29c in the chamber, and the spool just open to air on the side...

IMG_20240215_114716197.jpg


IMG_20240215_120648033.jpg


IMG_20240215_115137609.jpg
 
Chamber temp increased to only 31c... Print completed..


IMG_20240215_124137042.jpg


IMG_20240215_124222855.jpg


IMG_20240215_124242159.jpg




If you can't get it to print on the glue I'm definitely going with, that filament is wet..
 
Now that looks like a nice print. So its your settings with glue that does the trick.
Is the file designed 100% flat or light curve in it? As you can see the corners al verry light curved. don't know if its by design or warped.

20240215_185843.jpg


20240215_185907.jpg


What does cause the edges become like this?

20240215_191254.jpg


20240215_191243.jpg
 
Last edited:
Now that looks like a nice print. So its your settings with glue that does the trick.
Is the file designed 100% flat or light curve in it? As you can see the corners al verry light curved. don't know if its by design or warped.

View attachment 348686

View attachment 348687


It's definitely got a warp.. that part is designed flat... What I am seeing is the ends look to be not as squished as the center.. pretty common on these to have a not so flat bed.. this could also be playing a huge roll in adhesion issues.. your definitely getting closer.. I would 100% dry that filament if you can, to see if it gets better..
 
It's definitely got a warp.. that part is designed flat... What I am seeing is the ends look to be not as squished as the center.. pretty common on these to have a not so flat bed.. this could also be playing a huge roll in adhesion issues.. your definitely getting closer.. I would 100% dry that filament if you can, to see if it gets better..
I don't have a filament dryer. The electric oven it is. :D
 
I don't have a filament dryer. The electric oven it is. :D
Absolutely, that would be fine.. lowest setting possible for about 3 hours...


Printing this one now at 180mm/sec... No problems... Notice how the print gets cleaner as you increase speed..

IMG_20240215_132936032.jpg
 
Complete.. this one has stuck so well I can't get it off the plate.. have to wait until it cools..




Posted pic of it off the plate.. very flat, no warp..

IMG_20240215_134108186.jpg


IMG_20240215_134219431.jpg


IMG_20240215_134721987.jpg
 
I don't have a filament dryer. The electric oven it is. :D

You don't need anything fancy..
I used an old food dehydrator to dry my filaments.. Two at a time. 😉👍
 
How and why does it stick so well? just because its dry filament?


I would say yes... We are using the same glue, same settings, and same build plate.. it has to be wet filament.. just has to be.. 🤔🤔🤔
 
Last edited:
Tomorrow i will dry it for 3 hours as doctor described :D and the give it a go. if it comes out beter than i will try your 180mm/s

would this work?
https://forum.prusa3d.com/wp-conten...CD9E0-37E5-4B3E-8A3C-99A37315E12B-scaled.jpeg

What he has done is cut the bottom of the box and put it over the filament and lay it for few hours on heated bed.


That would work just fine... You can throw it in the k1 max as well and just close the door.. you could set the bed to like 50c...
 
Back
Top