Outcast On hand parts for outcast

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Suspension arms and wing mounts, especially now that it's getting cold. I'm in Toronto, so you and I get similar weather. The plastics start to get brittle around this time of year. You might consider buying RPM for these parts, but you could definitely get cheaper stock ones if you buy from a company like https://jennysrc.com/. Bearings are also a solid buy, rubber shielded if you want to upgrade.
 
All of the above and shock ends (may want to mod them with the Nero or Tekno ends as the stock ones break), set of bearings (the larger inner wheel bearings seem to go first for me), super glue for regluing tires to rims, maybe a set of difs from Jenny’s or at least one extra, maybe an extra bulkhead.
 
LtGhost08 said:
I was thinking of getting a diff rebuild kit and some arms to start to keep on hand. Ill consider keeping a few wing mounts on hand too, not a bad idea. I will probably do the front and reach chassis braces and servo mount for stability.
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Recommend researching the cost of the rebuild kit vs one from JRC. You can probably get the whole assembly cheaper than a rebuild kit.
 
98jdmcivic said:
Recommend researching the cost of the rebuild kit vs one from JRC. You can probably get the whole assembly cheaper than a rebuild kit.
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I think the complete diff from Jenny's is about $5-$10 more than just the gears alone from Arrma. To buy what you get from Jenny's would cost you like $10-20 more from Arrma.
 
Another thing that is nice to have on hand is spare screws, shims, washers and locknuts. Jennys sells screw kits that have most of the screws in them.
 
My Notorious loves to ruin wing mounts but haven't broken a-arms. Also an extra diff or more to swap out. My front diff caused me the first grind after I jacked it up to punch 9. My recommendation is to not jack it up to punch 9 on old diffs...or be ready to swap and build. And thicker diff fluid is good to have and use.
 
Agreed... diff fluids... the center diff is soft from the factory... I would also suggest some shims for the ring gear.. you can shim the f+r diffs before you run it to ensure good tooth contact and a lesser chance of killing a ring and pinion...
 
crimsonfancy said:
My Notorious loves to ruin wing mounts but haven't broken a-arms. Also an extra diff or more to swap out. My front diff caused me the first grind after I jacked it up to punch 9. My recommendation is to not jack it up to punch 9 on old diffs...or be ready to swap and build. And thicker diff fluid is good to have and use.
Click to expand...
IDK why everybody says wing mounts. I've bent my original, but not broken it. And the best thing I did after installing new bulkheads was to drill & tap the two screws at the bottom to accept M4 socket heads. Solid as a rock, and I've taken cartwheels that were easy over 10 hits. As far as arms, just get a set of RPM arms, don't waste your time or money replacing stock ones.
 
Crewchief227 said:
IDK why everybody says wing mounts. I've bent my original, but not broken it. And the best thing I did after installing new bulkheads was to drill & tap the two screws at the bottom to accept M4 socket heads. Solid as a rock, and I've taken cartwheels that were easy over 10 hits. As far as arms, just get a set of RPM arms, don't waste your time or money replacing stock ones.
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I may just go with the RPM arms that way I can go with their rear mud guards as well.
 
Crewchief227 said:
IDK why everybody says wing mounts. I've bent my original, but not broken it. And the best thing I did after installing new bulkheads was to drill & tap the two screws at the bottom to accept M4 socket heads. Solid as a rock, and I've taken cartwheels that were easy over 10 hits. As far as arms, just get a set of RPM arms, don't waste your time or money replacing stock ones.
Click to expand...

Ive broken so many wing mounts I made my own setup with no wing and the tbone wheelie bar. The whole wing, brace mount thing belongs on buggies imo...mines more like a 6s Granite now. Don't even get me started on the ripping the rear end of the body off when the wing flexes. If you real lucky the first time you land on the wing it bends into a permanent SS and will last a bit longer before it rips completely off and takes the body with it. Don't get me wrong though it is a killer rig and fine choice for having fun. Love it!
 
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Crewchief227 said:
IDK why everybody says wing mounts. I've bent my original, but not broken it. And the best thing I did after installing new bulkheads was to drill & tap the two screws at the bottom to accept M4 socket heads. Solid as a rock, and I've taken cartwheels that were easy over 10 hits. As far as arms, just get a set of RPM arms, don't waste your time or money replacing stock ones.
Click to expand...

I say the same thing about arms. I've never had to replace one. I have one sheared slightly from a metal culvert on my Talion but doesn't need replacing.
 
crimsonfancy said:
I say the same thing about arms. I've never had to replace one. I have one sheared slightly from a metal culvert on my Talion but doesn't need replacing.
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I actually had mine do a ? on a pavement tumble, saw the wheel all locked out, thought I popped a turnbuckle rod end. Nope, the hub was flipped upside down. Just took a little nudge, and bam my RPM a-arms popped right back into place, straight as ever. I was astonished. ?
 
Crewchief227 said:
IDK why everybody says wing mounts. I've bent my original, but not broken it. And the best thing I did after installing new bulkheads was to drill & tap the two screws at the bottom to accept M4 socket heads. Solid as a rock, and I've taken cartwheels that were easy over 10 hits. As far as arms, just get a set of RPM arms, don't waste your time or money replacing stock ones.
Click to expand...
You're not trying hard enough. 10 hits is rookie status. I get a dozen before it even reaches the cliff?
 
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