Kraton Razor RC Kraton 4x4 4S

[jondilly1974]

Full review of the Kraton 4x4 4S --

How does one determine the direction the tie rod is supposed to be installed? Mine don’t seem to have any indicators?

 

[razorrc]

How does one determine the direction the tie rod is supposed to be installed? Mine don’t seem to have any indicators?

Look at the flat part in the middle of the turnbuckle, where you use your turnbuckle wrench. One side has a line engraved on it, which is the right-hand threaded side. The other side is reverse-threaded.

The lines on all of your turnbuckles should be on the same side. That way, you spin them all the same way to lengthen/shorten them.

 

[jondilly1974]

Look at the flat part in the middle of the turnbuckle, where you use your turnbuckle wrench. One side has a line engraved on it, which is the right-hand threaded side. The other side is reverse-threaded.

The lines on all of your turnbuckles should be on the same side. That way, you spin them all the same way to lengthen/shorten them.

Thanks I will look closer.

 

[razorrc]

Just finished installing my Arrma adjustable motor plate. Thoughts:

It’s a really nice piece of machined billet aluminum. Should be sturdier than the stock cast piece. I also pulled the motor and replaced the front bearing with an Avid Revolution half rubber/half metal shielded bearing. It was a little crunchy and I bet it’s the reason for people’s motor failures. I recommend you degrease the bearing first and re-oil with a lightweight bearing oil because the stock grease is noticeably slower and has tons more drag. 16.4v x 2400kv means the motor is spinning at 40k RPM!

Also I recommend using some 3x6 steel washers on the motor mount screws to prevent slippage. Loctite them of course!

 

[MyZuC]

I haven't seen many new post for the 4s Kraton. I was beginning to think everyone gave up on it. I really haven't had any issues once I sorted the slipper clutch.

 

[razorrc]

I’ve been busy with other RC cars and videos, but still hit up the Kraton every couple of weeks. Will do a tips video pretty soon.

I never had any problems until I let my friend drive it, lol. First sign that it’s not going to end well — he’s never driven a Kraton before and just yanks the trigger full throttle with no idea how fast that is going to make it go.

 

[Surchaufeur]

My slipper keeps getting loose im starting being really triggered i switched for the old spring and used red locktite now if it doesn't work well... will have to call horizon again

 

[razorrc]

IME, slipper springs usually break in. Don't overtighten them because they will deform and they won't hold tension very well. I don't like the "tighten all the way and then back out" method because I think it's too easy to overtighten and deform them. Some people like to precompress them with some pliers so they break in, but I don't do that. I just run it, tighten it as necessary, run it, tighten as necessary, and then at some point it stops needing to be tightened.

That said, I just moved the stock setting and will run it tomorrow, so hopefully mine doesn't loosen.

 

[Surchaufeur]

IME, slipper springs usually break in. Don't overtighten them because they will deform and they won't hold tension very well. I don't like the "tighten all the way and then back out" method because I think it's too easy to overtighten and deform them. Some people like to precompress them with some pliers so they break in, but I don't do that. I just run it, tighten it as necessary, run it, tighten as necessary, and then at some point it stops needing to be tightened.

That said, I just moved the stock setting and will run it tomorrow, so hopefully mine doesn't loosen.

My new spring was longer and stronger now its as small as the old one. I love the truck but he hates me back:c
But it is still far better than the rustler 4x4 i owned

 

[razorrc]

Did a bunch of testing with the Kraton today. Truck worked great after a bunch of hard bashing -- Kimborough servo saver is better than stock one, STX2 was fine as usual (lol), slipper held its setting even after being taken apart, diffs held up, arms held up even after 20 foot drops...

Broke the upper chassis brace mount though, so gotta order ARA320528 to replace it. I'm not really sold on a stiff aluminum upper brace when you have a plastic chassis, they should've made it something more flexible IMO.

I still have to take the truck apart and check the motor mount. If it survived today, then I'm fine with it and think it's sturdy enough.

 

[jondilly1974]

Did a bunch of testing with the Kraton today. Truck worked great after a bunch of hard bashing -- Kimborough servo saver is better than stock one, STX2 was fine as usual (lol), slipper held its setting even after being taken apart, diffs held up, arms held up even after 20 foot drops...

Broke the upper chassis brace mount though, so gotta order ARA320528 to replace it. I'm not really sold on a stiff aluminum upper brace when you have a plastic chassis, they should've made it something more flexible IMO.

I still have to take the truck apart and check the motor mount. If it survived today, then I'm fine with it and think it's sturdy enough.

I had to resort to swapping the radio in my Kraton in order to run it today. Had two choices:

Tactic
STX2

I decided to give the STX2 a try and instantly regretted my choice. One mistake I made was calibrating the ESC with the throttle limiter set to 50%. The damn thing is waaaaayyy to fast now. Set to 100% on the switch and a slightest bit of throttle and it backflips instantly. I ran out of time and the park was full anyways, so I will reset the throttle using 100% and see what happens.

The other issue was range. It gets double what my Radiolink has been giving me, which isn’t saying much. And there is the normal lag at the end of its range that everyone takes about.

Pretty sure I’m going to have to go back to the Tactic until I get the Radiolink situation figured out or I buy a Flysky.

 

[razorrc]

Motor mount is straight as arrow and mesh is still perfect. Nothing else broke, one of the more successful Kraton bashes.

My Radiolink definitely did not have linear and throttle and steering curves. I have some suggested expo settings in my review video to get it as close to linear as possible.

There was a pretty big difference in steering and throttle control between the Flysky FSGT5 and the Radiolink, the Flysky being much better, almost race radio quality.

Pretty sure I’m going to have to go back to the Tactic until I get the Radiolink situation figured out or I buy a Flysky.

Don’t buy the low-end Flysky’s, they are junk. The FSGT5 and higher are pretty good.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Motor mount is straight as arrow and mesh is still perfect. Nothing else broke, one of the more successful Kraton bashes.

My Radiolink definitely did not have linear and throttle and steering curves. I have some suggested expo settings in my review video to get it as close to linear as possible.

There was a pretty big difference in steering and throttle control between the Flysky FSGT5 and the Radiolink, the Flysky being much better, almost race radio quality.


Don’t buy the low-end Flysky’s, they are junk. The FSGT5 and higher are pretty good.

I ordered the adjustable motor mount. I striped everything and cleaned everything on my kraton i know my front diff would have out soon but did not expect i would have to put a new one immedietly because look at this... i suppose is the lithium grease doing an awful job at lubricating
Funny enough its 2months and a half old and never failed even running almost completly wihout teeths while the rear failed every 2-3 weeks..
So so far in 2 days i spend:
-Adjustable motor mount 25$
-1x sun gear 10$
-front shock shafts 10$
-sealed bearings for diff and slipper clutch 16$
-slipper clutch rebuild kit 15$
-rear a arms 14$
Total: 70$ cad and i need a front diff now another 25$ total
I want to die..hope its the last money i spend for a few months but i doubt it
Also ordered alluminum pivot balls because the stock ones all of the, are shot making steering and everything unpredictable

 

[razorrc]

I ordered the adjustable motor mount. I striped everything and cleaned everything on my kraton i know my front diff would have out soon but did not expect i would have to put a new one immedietly because look at this... i suppose is the lithium grease doing an awful job at lubricating
Funny enough its 2months and a half old and never failed even running almost completly wihout teeths while the rear failed every 2-3 weeks..
So so far in 2 days i spend:
-Adjustable motor mount 25$
-1x sun gear 10$
-front shock shafts 10$
-sealed bearings for diff and slipper clutch 16$
-slipper clutch rebuild kit 15$
-rear a arms 14$
Total: 70$ cad and i need a front diff now another 25$ total
I want to die..hope its the last money i spend for a few months but i doubt it
Also ordered alluminum pivot balls because the stock ones all of the, are shot making steering and everything unpredictable

Are you running on pavement only?

 

[Surchaufeur]

Are you running on pavement only?

Short grass and pavement

 

[razorrc]

Short grass and pavement

Ok, dirt will be easiest on your diffs and slipper because it’s loose. High traction surfaces like grass and pavement will be harder on your drivetrain.

 

[jondilly1974]

So my quandary at the moment is:

A) Flysky Noble

Or

B) high end Spektrum or Futaba

 

[Outcastblxnut]

Noble

 

[Mike-NLD]

So they are metal on one side and rubber on the other? I have never seen that before if so. I like the rubber shielded ones and to be honest they are cheap on aliexpress. I got enough to do every bearing on my truck 4 times over and it cost me about 23$ Canadian. From what I know the rubber shielded ones are not as smooth and have a little more rolling resistance however they do a better job of keeping the dirt out so for basher we use them. But for the steering bellcrank I would say it doesn't matter what one you use.

I run half shields (AVID calls them "revolutions") in my wheelhubs, diff housings (indrive side) and steering bellcrank.. In those places dust can only come in from the outside..

Well.. Except for the rear hubs.. Sand makes its way in through the cups.. But ive put CVD's in the rear to fix that issue.. And i had to.. Cause i even blew my double shielded ones every 10 packs..

 

[andymazdamp3]

I run half shields (AVID calls them "revolutions") in my wheelhubs, diff housings (indrive side) and steering bellcrank.. In those places dust can only come in from the outside..

Well.. Except for the rear hubs.. Sand makes its way in through the cups.. But ive put CVD's in the rear to fix that issue.. And i had to.. Cause i even blew my double shielded ones every 10 packs..

Nice. Well that makes sense for sure. Yeah I usually check my bearings every few runs and have changed most out already once to rubber shielded. I don't run in water or even dirt that much lately as I usually go in my yard or in a field so I guess that's probably why mine are holding up well. I also run mine mostly on 3 and 4s so the ones I check the most are the ones in the power module and the ones on the input shafts (not sure what to call them. Ones at the end of the main drive shaft going into the diffs.) I may look for the ones you have next time I need to buy bearings. I ended up getting a crap load off alliexpress for next to nothing. Pretty good quality for the price.