Vorteks Razor RC Vorteks

[Ben_W2503]

I have yet to see a solution that fits a center diff in the 3s cars. You would have to design a different housing to replace the existing power module covers so that you could fit a diff where the slipper/spur assembly is now. You would also have to shorten the center driveshaft and probably find a new way to secure the power module assembly because you would no longer have room for the red block that currently serves that function (possible if your new module housing was secured by the same screw). In the SWB chassis you would be hurting for space to fit the motor at that point, probably possible but tight.

Dammit now I want to try to make it work.

Tell me, If u've foubd a solution

 

[camtrailsnc]

Tell me, If u've foubd a solution

I wonder if the gyro is a decent half-measure. I’ve got a radio link coming in this week and I’ll let you know whether I’m still clamoring for a center diff once I have that.

 

[razorrc]

The design of the slipper make it look like it was designed to be similar to a ball diff, like this one:
View attachment 143928

I don't know if a ball diff can withstand the loads of these 3s cars. but the similarity is so striking that i wouldn't be surprised if we'll see a ball diff option in the future that fits the current slipper housing.

Yeah, I was messing with my center diff yesterday and was like, wait a minute...!

I think they designed it so that the two halves can spin/slip independently, much like a ball diff, so the front can slip while the rear is solid and vice versa. Pretty neat, not all center slippers can do that.

Personally, I think they put that brass piece in the center of the diff as a bushing so the two steel halves can turn independently. I know people are freaking out that it can spin, but I think that's intentional. If you replaced it with a bearing (you can't, it's too small, but...) I think it would work just fine.

Also worth noting: It seems they got the memo at the factory about the missing thread locker and washers on the motor screws for the V3. It looks like the screws have been fully bathed in TL before installing them on my Vorteks.

Yup, definitely. I haven't checked the axle screws yet, kinda been lazy.

 

[FlipSide]

Yup, definitely. I haven't checked the axle screws yet, kinda been lazy.

There did not seem to be any threadlocker on mine. I must admit I did not think about inspecting the screws carefully, but the axles seemed completely threadlocker-free to me. I just added TL and re-assembled.

 

[razorrc]

 

[Yonic]

I think they designed it so that the two halves can spin/slip independently

Yeah, and not only that, but each side of the slipper (front/rear) have different friction. the front can slip much easier (it has only 1 friction surface) while the rear have 3. so it takes 3 times the force to slip the rear vs. the front.

You can feel it by holding the slipper in hand and connect the center driveshaft directly to it (using the small red male-male shaft), you can feel the front slips much easier then the rear.

I guess this is done to save the front driveshafts when you brake hard.

 

[razorrc]

Yeah, I noticed the multi plate rear and single plate front.

The reason for that is because you generally want the front to slip more easily than the rear. On power, it's not a big deal to send a lot of power to the rear, because the worst case is that it will oversteer as the rear wheels slide. On braking, weight transfers to the front, so the rear is light and you want the front wheels to slip more easily so that the rear doesn't swap ends or you endo.

When the front slips easily, braking will be more controlled as you'll utilize all 4 wheels more equally to stop. My Xray buggy is similar, with the additional option to tune the front/rear slipper action with different friction pads. It brakes amazingly well, it's very stable braking into the corners and you don't really have to modulate braking.

 

[razorrc]

Today’s pro tip:

Front shock cups hit the front arms at full droop. I recommend taking a Dremel and clearancing the arms a bit.

 

[GRC]

I think:
3S/4S Talion = 4S Kraton ( hoepfully already on the V2 Version) with Vorteks towers and shocks ( or shortened 4S shocks)
+
Mini Infraction / Felony

A LWB 3s/4s chassis with Vorteks shock towers and shocks would definitely be the Talion/Mini Infraction of the 3s line. I've been waiting for a good video of what the Vorteks performs like on concrete. I expected it to be the best 3s "drifter." It is.

Today’s pro tip:

Front shock cups hit the front arms at full droop. I recommend taking a Dremel and clearancing the arms a bit.

This happens with 3s vehicles with 16mm shocks. Washers between the shock rod ends and arms fixes it.

 

[razorrc]

This happens with 3s vehicles with 16mm shocks. Washers between the shock rod ends and arms fixes it.

Yeah, that wouldn't work on mine. You'd need at least 5mm of spacing out, and would put the shock at too much of an angle.

 

[BigRockAlpha]

First run thoughts

Thanks I think I will pass on this model since I already have 2 3S well really 1.5 since I'm waiting on a chassis. I'm still hoping to see some new 4S this year which would motivate me to buy.

 

[camtrailsnc]

I wonder if the gyro is a decent half-measure. I’ve got a radio link coming in this week and I’ll let you know whether I’m still clamoring for a center diff once I have that.

The gyro makes an unbelievable difference. I’m certain a center diff is worth it, but I wouldn’t overlook how much the gyro fundamentally transforms the car.

 

[arrmadillo]

Razor RC could you verify the Vorteks body will fit on the Arrma Granite sir? Maybe snap a picture for me. I have the purple pink body on pre order and just need to verify it will fit with some minor modifications. Do I just need to purchase the Vorteks body posts? Any help is appreciated. Can't wait to see your thoughts on the Vorteks!

Vortek body will not fit the Granite, Jay Tee just did a side by side body swap and it's a no go. Check it out on YouTube.

 

[razorrc]

The gyro makes an unbelievable difference. I’m certain a center diff is worth it, but I wouldn’t overlook how much the gyro fundamentally transforms the car.

Well, they do two different things. The gyro helps the car go straight. The center diff helps the car turn.

 

[camtrailsnc]

Well, they do two different things. The gyro helps the car go straight. The center diff helps the car turn.

I was thinking a center diff would help make sure you got reliable power transfer to the front under load and help keep the front tracking straight. I know it depends on fluid viscosity, but logically a center diff would slip more than a slipper clutch and just give you better dynamic F/R torque balancing, making the car handle better overall. Guess I wasn't thinking it all the way through.

Either way, the gyro makes a world of difference in how the car handles.

 

[razorrc]

 

[Dizzle]

Much better results Razor! Thanks for the video man appreciate it.

 

[razorrc]

 

[Yonic]

Nice tips.
Regarding the HR motor mount, it’s a nice piecemeal and the ribs do strengthen the spur area, but it has a flaw, it has sunken rails the motor screws, leaving 3mm of material in that area and not a lot of meat. Mine bent there. So I feel the stock part is stronger overall.

 

[razorrc]

Interesting, thanks for sharing. I do run mine with 3x5mm aluminum washers in those channels along with the buttonhead screws. Not sure if that adds any additional durability, but they are slightly wider than the buttonheads.