Hi, i recently ruined my rear input gear because of a lot of dirt in my gearbox. Now if I take a look at the crown wheel, I don't know what to think of it. Is this still usable or not?
Typhon Rear diff gear
- Thread starter Typhon6smax
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This is the 6S version? Cause here is a pic of my ring gear for comparison.
I don't know why your gear has such a weird wear pattern on the surface of the teeth.
I don't know why your gear has such a weird wear pattern on the surface of the teeth.
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- #3
Yes, it is the 6S version. The V3.
hoonigan
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What ever they say
Use only 5k closest to main gear / motor.
Also
Change the bearings in that motor to CERAMIC Bearings.
don't trust cheap China vendors who made these BLX,
What you need in front or Center is so different.
Right at ENGINE 5k
After that go higher in center and front
Never more than 5k at the engine
If you cant handle 5k at engine ?
You need learn drive better !!!
Use only 5k closest to main gear / motor.
Also
Change the bearings in that motor to CERAMIC Bearings.
don't trust cheap China vendors who made these BLX,
What you need in front or Center is so different.
Right at ENGINE 5k
After that go higher in center and front
Never more than 5k at the engine
If you cant handle 5k at engine ?
You need learn drive better !!!
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- #5
What do you mean by engine 5k?
When i got the diff out, the gearbox was full of dirt.
Last edited:
hoonigan
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I have alot RC Cars from alot brands.
What i mean is what i write before !!!
Where is your Engine ?
I done alot RC Drifting also. There is some Front Wheel drivers ! SICK
aNyway. always 5000 at your engine.
Standart.
I have 2500k now right in my 1/8 onroad super car = EXTREME / Not RTR Arrma
9 of 10 times i use Customized diffs.
Alloy Mostly
Most of times i change alot before my first drive. This was before.
Today i feel the Same when we talk about Arrma.
Metall diff cases is 1
after this we start talk right Wiscocity
What i mean is what i write before !!!
Where is your Engine ?
I done alot RC Drifting also. There is some Front Wheel drivers ! SICK
aNyway. always 5000 at your engine.
Standart.
I have 2500k now right in my 1/8 onroad super car = EXTREME / Not RTR Arrma
9 of 10 times i use Customized diffs.
Alloy Mostly
Most of times i change alot before my first drive. This was before.
Today i feel the Same when we talk about Arrma.
Metall diff cases is 1
after this we start talk right Wiscocity
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #7
But what do you mean by "where is your engine"? And "only 5k at engine?" I don't understand what you are trying to tell me.
jondilly1974
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I think he means only use 5k cst in the center diff
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How does the standard oil look? Mine is a little bit grey-ish. Is this normal?
jondilly1974
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Mine looked similar when I took my Typhon 3S diff apart yesterday to get at the broken output shaft. I think that’s a normal amount of metal dust. At least it isn’t contaminated with sand or dirt.
jondilly1974
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Deuces ✌?
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I do want to be serious, but since I'm 16 years old, I don't have a lot of money and I cant replace everything to super expensive stuff.
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It is simply worn out. Cannot be be reused. Use a respectable grease on the new ring and output gear and make sure you shim properly. Replace and start over=more fun
Your diff internals look just fine ironically, color of fluid, the gears and all. I don't think diff fluid CST is to blame or will make much a difference. Let others chime in.
JennysRC.com may be a cheaper option. A preassembled diff may be more cost effective.
Your diff internals look just fine ironically, color of fluid, the gears and all. I don't think diff fluid CST is to blame or will make much a difference. Let others chime in.
I know that it can be hard if money is limited. The good part is that this appears normal wear and tear. You basically need only the input smaller gear and the larger ring gear. My 2 cents.
JennysRC.com may be a cheaper option. A preassembled diff may be more cost effective.
Last edited:
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- #16
Yeah, I know that site, but I live in Europe so the cost will still be high and I'll have to wait long. I was already looking for a pre assembled diff. I don't know if they come with the oil already applied. I will keep the other diff as a donor for parts.It is simply worn out. Cannot be be reused. Use a respectable grease on the new ring and output gear and make sure you shim properly. Replace and start over=more fun
Your diff internals look just fine ironically, color of fluid, the gears and all. I don't think diff fluid CST is to blame or will make much a difference. Let others chime in.
I know that it can be hard if money is limited. The good part is that this appears normal wear and tear. You basically need only the input smaller gear and the larger ring gear. My 2 cents.
JennysRC.com may be a cheaper option. A preassembled diff may be more cost effective.
jondilly1974
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Maybe @Badtouch The basher can give you a hand finding parts?
I do have a typhon complete diff in stock, can post to the uk £28 all in please feel free to pm me or ask for details here and I'll happily help ?
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I believe there is a kit breaker in the EU.
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IDK what's up with that one guy?! Anyways, the "dirt" acted like sandpaper and wore your ring gear down, which means it also probably wore down the input pinion. If you're running in fine sand a lot I would get some blue marine grease, and put it all along the edge of the diff housing door, and the face of your bearings to seal the diff housing from sand intrusion. Also, look back in my post history, you'll see I made my own rear mud guards that fit on the rear arms, this will go a long way in keeping dirt outa those bearings & rear drivetrain. Clean the housing out good, put fresh grease on everything. Stick to the manual for intervals on component inspections, most say per X number of packs running you should do Y maintenance. Good luck finding parts.
