Limitless Scorched full length GT build

[Diem Turner]

Thanks. I don’t have to tell you but pics don’t do it justice. It’s wild. First coat was Tamiya PS-46 (Purple/green). Second coat was PS-47 (Pink/Gold). Third coat was PS-46 again. Backer was Traxxas Metallic black since that’s all my LHS had left. I’ll never buy Traxxas paint again. Horrible. Sprays worse than a calcium clogged shower head. Thankfully it was only the backer.

Oh, definitely not. Unless you have the camera, lighting and know your shizzle when it comes to photography, trying to capture colors like this under Lexan accurately is an exercise in futility. There must exist a n easier way to get a camera to record and a monitor to reproduce what my eye sees.

 

[LicketySplit]

Oh, definitely not. Unless you have the camera, lighting and know your shizzle when it comes to photography, trying to capture colors like this under Lexan accurately is an exercise in futility. There must exist a n easier way to get a camera to record and a monitor to reproduce what my eye sees.

I'll take some outside at different angles tomorrow. Besides the perfectly fitting splitter I did something in the rear to get rid of flex. I'm winding down for the night so I'm too lazy to get up and take a pic. Simple solution and this setup actually has less body flex than the other FC100 that I did the epoxy thing to.

 

[Diem Turner]

I'll take some outside at different angles tomorrow. Besides the perfectly fitting splitter I did something in the rear to get rid of flex. I'm winding down for the night so I'm too lazy to get up and take a pic. Simple solution and this setup actually has less body flex than the other FC100 that I did the epoxy thing to.

No worries, no hurries. At your leisure. We still have a couple of months time before winter is over. Besides, after installing my custom rear body mount, body flex just isn't "a thing" anymore. But don't get it twisted, I'm still curious to see what you've come up with.

 

[LicketySplit]

No worries, no hurries. At your leisure. We still have a couple of months time before winter is over. Besides, after installing my custom rear body mount, body flex just isn't "a thing" anymore. But don't get it twisted, I'm still curious to see what you've come up with.

Dammit. Now I’m gonna get up. Lol.

 

[Diem Turner]

Dammit. Now I’m gonna get up. Lol.

Nah man, chill. I can wait and you can relax.

 

[LicketySplit]

So I liked the idea of Raz’s new body mounts. Seemed like a great idea. The front won’t work since you can’t flip them at a downward angle or they hit the tires. They will work that way with GRP’s, however. I noticed Raz moves his body at lot more forward than most so if you do that, it’ll work. Anyways, once I got the rear done the center of the body just folded down. Not even a flex. Literally made the noise of Lexan bending. So I installed another body mount as seen below. Since I’m running the Scorched center brace I don’t have a need for that M4 screw. If you take that screw out and put a post behind it, the screw will thread itself through a few MM of the front of the post when putting it back in. It’s not going anywhere. After that I cut and sanded the post so it was a perfect fit and was smooth. Now the body is pretty damn solid for what it is.

 

[Dan B.]

Wow, that worked out well. Sometimes a solution just presents itself! Not typically in my case though, . Also, nice job with that front splitter. Well done, man!

 

[Ron Burgandy]

That chassis is sick ….
Nice build

 

[ArrmaFreek2022]

Thank you sir!! I’m not really for adding bling just for the sake of being blingy. Lol. I do, however, like a clean build. Just my personal preference. That’s part of what makes this hobby so enjoyable for me. Believe it or not everything on there removes slop.

Wow, I can vouch the steering is stiff as can be. I got home and my steering now feels like its held together by pieces of bubble gum lol. I'm ordering the Scorched servo saver, both parts and changing to the HR servo horn and arm. Hopefully I'll come close. I don't have as many options for the servo arm as you cause its not a carbon chassis so I really hope the horn works. Where would you say you made the biggest impact to the steering fix? Congrats again on this tight as build LicketySplit.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

So I liked the idea of Raz’s new body mounts. Seemed like a great idea. The front won’t work since you can’t flip them at a downward angle or they hit the tires. They will work that way with GRP’s, however. I noticed Raz moves his body at lot more forward than most so if you do that, it’ll work. Anyways, once I got the rear done the center of the body just folded down. Not even a flex. Literally made the noise of Lexan bending. So I installed another body mount as seen below. Since I’m running the Scorched center brace I don’t have a need for that M4 screw. If you take that screw out and put a post behind it, the screw will thread itself through a few MM of the front of the post when putting it back in. It’s not going anywhere. After that I cut and sanded the post so it was a perfect fit and was smooth. Now the body is pretty damn solid for what it is. View attachment 270205

I just fiberglassed the rear half of my FC100 body for those reasons.
This product is a good solution for that.

 

[LicketySplit]

Wow, I can vouch the steering is stiff as can be. I got home and my steering now feels like it’s held together by pieces of bubble gum lol. I'm ordering the Scorched servo saver, both parts and changing to the HR servo horn and arm. Hopefully I'll come close. I don't have as many options for the servo arm as you cause it’s not a carbon chassis so I really hope the horn works. Where would you say you made the biggest impact to the steering fix? Congrats again on this tight as build LicketySplit.

Yea man good to meet you. My chassis has nothing to do with the servo horn or arm. You can do exactly what I did you will just need to flip the servo. You can actually just use the HR horn and get that turnbuckle like I showed you. It’ll be better than the HR arm. The best things for the steering, IMO, is putting the diff shims behind the outer bearing to get rid of slop. You can also do this on the rear. Get rid of the 4 brass bushings in the steering posts and put bearings in. And if you’re gonna place an order with Scorced, also get the flanged Ackerman bearings. All that stuff will make a huge difference. I’ve also had back luck with the stock steering turnbuckles. The plastic ends are always sloppy. That’s the only reason I run the GPM version. I have them on 3 cars and they are all tight. Hope that helps. Any more questions feel free to ask!

I just fiberglassed the rear half of my FC100 body for those reasons.
This product is a good solution for that.

I was going to do that again but figured I’d try out the PP mounts and that extra body post. I was pleasantly surprised with the outcome so I’m just gonna leave it.

 

[Dan B.]

Yea man good to meet you. My chassis has nothing to do with the servo horn or arm. You can do exactly what I did you will just need to flip the servo. You can actually just use the HR horn and get that turnbuckle like I showed you. It’ll be better than the HR arm. The best things for the steering, IMO, is putting the diff shims behind the outer bearing to get rid of slop. You can also do this on the rear. Get rid of the 4 brass bushings in the steering posts and put bearings in. And if you’re gonna place an order with Scorced, also get the flanged Ackerman bearings. All that stuff will make a huge difference. I’ve also had back luck with the stock steering turnbuckles. The plastic ends are always sloppy. That’s the only reason I run the GPM version. I have them on 3 cars and they are all tight. Hope that helps. Any more questions feel free to ask!

I was going to do that again but figured I’d try out the PP mounts and that extra body post. I was pleasantly surprised with the outcome so I’m just gonna leave it.

Spot on, man. In my current (first) speed build I spent a lot of time shimming and fine tuning every suspension point on the whole front of the car. The only slop left anywhere was in the HR steering arm on the servo horn. It was slight, but present. I ordered a GPM horn and arm but haven’t installed it yet.
I didn’t get the Scorched stuff, but installed the Basher Queen adjustable servo saver with full bearings for the whole steering gear and Ackerman arm and the difference was crazy. After the hubs were properly shimmed the whole front end (minus servo arm) was amazing. Smooth, fluid movement with no play anywhere. I just couldn’t believe how precise everything became.

 

[LicketySplit]

Spot on, man. In my current (first) speed build I spent a lot of time shimming and fine tuning every suspension point on the whole front of the car. The only slop left anywhere was in the HR steering arm on the servo horn. It was slight, but present. I ordered a GPM horn and arm but haven’t installed it yet.
I didn’t get the Scorched stuff, but installed the Basher Queen adjustable servo saver with full bearings for the whole steering gear and Ackerman arm and the difference was crazy. After the hubs were properly shimmed the whole front end (minus servo arm) was amazing. Smooth, fluid movement with no play anywhere. I just couldn’t believe how precise everything became.

Yea definitely. On this build I ended up using a Team Associated horn and a turnbuckle from a Traxxas bandit since my LHS had both. One thing to add to someone else who may be reading this, just make sure the turnbuckle is coming off the horn at 90 degrees. I find this gives even steering side to side

 

[LicketySplit]

Ok so I wasn’t happy with where the Scorched holes were for the XLX2. I was losing real estate plus I didn’t like how the power wires didn’t have much reach towards the front. I started test fitting different batteries last night and realized this would be an issue, especially with the battery on the other side of the car. I’m trying to run packs on each side to keep weight distribution as even as possible. The good news is I only had to drill and countersink two holes. I was able to use the existing rear holes so I just added two more in the rear.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Ok so I wasn’t happy with where the Scorched holes were for the XLX2. I was losing real estate plus I didn’t like how the power wires didn’t have much reach towards the front. I started test fitting different batteries last night and realized this would be an issue, especially with the battery on the other side of the car. I’m trying to run packs on each side to keep weight distribution as even as possible. The good news is I only had to drill and countersink two holes. I was able to use the existing rear holes so I just added two more in the rear. View attachment 270827

Lots of room, yet somehow it all starts to go away once the batteries go in
Especially with dual motor setups.

 

[LicketySplit]

Lots of room, yet somehow it all starts to go away once the batteries go in
Especially with dual motor setups.

Ayup
Here’s a better view of the paint job.

 

[Diem Turner]

Ok so I wasn’t happy with where the Scorched holes were for the XLX2. I was losing real estate plus I didn’t like how the power wires didn’t have much reach towards the front. I started test fitting different batteries last night and realized this would be an issue, especially with the battery on the other side of the car. I’m trying to run packs on each side to keep weight distribution as even as possible. The good news is I only had to drill and countersink two holes. I was able to use the existing rear holes so I just added two more in the rear. View attachment 270827

Yeah, I thought the same and had been thinking about moving it. Nice to know that you can use the two rear holes to line it up perfectly at the rear.

 

[Dan B.]

Ok so I wasn’t happy with where the Scorched holes were for the XLX2. I was losing real estate plus I didn’t like how the power wires didn’t have much reach towards the front. I started test fitting different batteries last night and realized this would be an issue, especially with the battery on the other side of the car. I’m trying to run packs on each side to keep weight distribution as even as possible. The good news is I only had to drill and countersink two holes. I was able to use the existing rear holes so I just added two more in the rear. View attachment 270827

Beautiful job, man. That is one slick build!

 

[dk10438]

Got a little more done. This is my first build without using a receiver box so there’s nowhere to stuff all the extra wiring. So I cut the leads to the XLX2 and servo and made them waaaay shorter. Then crimped on new connectors and she’s good to go. I think it looks pretty decent. It is now a running car. Still have to change the rear diff oil, shim the front hub bearings to get rid of a little slop, set the toe and camber, figure out how I want to deal with the rx antennas, and of course the body.

Edit: Also need to drill and countersink the chassis for the scorched battery strap holders.
View attachment 268821

Awesome bulld
I’m really digging the roto lok. Sweet servo too!

 

[LicketySplit]

Been slacking this week. Finally drilled and countersunk the chassis and got the battery strap holders installed. Still need to pull out the rear diff and change the fluid to 200k. Trying to find the motivation after my week.