Senton Senton Build
- Thread starter Dubbl-A
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- Thread starter
- #2
Added a HobbyWing ESC and a trusty Leopard 4082!
16T pinion to start with.
I had an old Parma Nissan Titan body I used to use on my Clodbuster sitting around and I wanted to see what it would look like on the Senton. After some trimming and some new mounting holes, it doesn't look too bad!
Broke a lower A-Arm my first run after it cartwheeled down a hill. I was a bit surprised as it wasn't a bad roll at all...So I did the washer mod on the ball ends. The fender washers are a bit large (1") but are easily filed down for clearance. So far so good. Hit some big jumps and rolls and no issues.
16T pinion to start with.
I had an old Parma Nissan Titan body I used to use on my Clodbuster sitting around and I wanted to see what it would look like on the Senton. After some trimming and some new mounting holes, it doesn't look too bad!
Broke a lower A-Arm my first run after it cartwheeled down a hill. I was a bit surprised as it wasn't a bad roll at all...So I did the washer mod on the ball ends. The fender washers are a bit large (1") but are easily filed down for clearance. So far so good. Hit some big jumps and rolls and no issues.
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- Thread starter
- #5
It keeps the upper and lower A arms from cracking where the ball ends screw into. It increases the surface area to spread the load over the entire mounting point of the A arms and keeps them from failing. For some reason this only happened to me on the shorter Senton A arms and has never been an issue on the bigger stuff like my Kraton.
The fender washers I used are too big but they work well. I haven't had any A arms fail since I added them.
The fender washers I used are too big but they work well. I haven't had any A arms fail since I added them.
- Thread starter
- #6
Finally had a chance to run the Senton with the new setup. Kraton hubs, stubs and hexes, added 200k to the center diff and added some Tekno green springs and went up 2 teeth on the pinion to an 18T. My goal is to make it a great 4S truck and after the run I'm very impressed! It absolutely rips. Ran it hard for a full pack and temps were fantastic. Lipo, Motor and ESC were all just warm and the added width made stability great. The new springs seem at home with the stock dampening and turn in is greatly improved with less nose dive.
Here's a photo after the rainy run.
Here's a photo after the rainy run.
Dopeman
Active Member
I like that a lot. To fit those wheels and tires, do I need all of the Kraton parts? Or can I just buy the Associated RC8 hub extensions?
Dubbl-A that's a sweet ride bro, great job from a roller. You'll have to shoot a vid or give some feedback on how she runs with the new treads. I still need to glue my son's 2.8 Trenchers on the F11s for his Truggified Typhon. Have fun!
DEADWright
Member
I found out the issue with the RC8 extenders is that they are drilled for a larger pin than the Arrma size,so they are loose when installed. I fit 2.8 Badlands on my stock Senton with a little clearance work on the back of the wheels and the top of the front hubs. Can post pics later tonight.
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks!
Yep, its really easy.
Just jump on ebay and order Kraton Hubs, Stub axles and hexes for all 4 corners and you're good to go.
Thanks a lot! I'm liking how it looks and can't wait to try out the new shoes.
It's been a while since I shot a video so I'm gonna have to do that soon.
You could drill your axel pin holes a tad bigger or use paper glue to hold stock pins in place and still be removable later. I've spoken online with someone who uses the glue trick with success running TA hex adapters.
DEADWright
Member
Axles are hardened, not impossible but very hard to drill.
No dollar store drill bits???.....Lol. I hear you, probably need clamps/vise, oil and hardened bits.
- Thread starter
- #17
Hubs:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-Krato...098016?hash=item1c68c92920:g:NawAAOSw9eVXXY3C
I bought everything from this seller. Just browse his eBay store and you'll find the parts needed.
