Typhon Street/Speed build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dan B.

Area man
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor RC Showcase: 3
Messages
8,888
Reaction score
26,662
Points
918
Location
Southern Vermont
Arrma RC's
  1. Fireteam
  2. Granite
  3. Limitless
  4. Mojave EXB
  5. Notorious
  6. Outcast 6s
  7. Typhon 6s
Well, I’m going in a bit of a different direction with this. Initially this was to be my SWB speed run build, but that one is waiting in the wings. Please stay tuned.
I figured I’d find a plan and get this one off the bench. It’s pretty much an over-the-top street basher, but I hope to learn a bit with it and it should take me pretty close to 100mph with the electronics I’m starting with. I already had most of the dry-fit part of the build done, sorry no pix. Details follow:
Scorched Chassis, Typhon,
Scorched Titanium center shafts,
Scorched hardened steel diff f/r input cups (holy moly man, they run true AF!!!),
Scorched adjustable rear toe blocks/hinge pin retainers, 1.3° toe,
Scorched titanium rear skid plate, chassis drilled accordingly (SPARKS BABY, YEAH!!!!),
PPS motor mount,
HW Max 6/1650 combo (it’s just to startwith. Jesus, give me a freaking break. I owned it, man),
46t Infraction center diff, 1million, (Scorched spool w/assorted pinions on hand for later speed runs)
GP5 front diff, 50k,
GP5 rear diff, 30k,
HR bulkhead covers,
Vitavon upper and lower arms, front,
Vitavon hub carriers, front and rear,
Vitavon rear arms.
Basher Queen Ackerman arm, adjustable servo saver, top plate, steering plates, servo mount, front and rear (Limitless) towers. Thanks Kimberly, you rock. Uber awesome sh*t, man!
Hardened tool steel CVD’s front and rear.
My next two days look to be potentially hectic, but I’ll follow up soon. Progress today:
142C4576-7655-402B-AABE-FF698C16EE45.jpeg

71FF4EDE-8CBC-4E82-9A07-7279B69ADFA1.jpeg

5D3FFEFA-288A-4EA2-9945-3A4F11C05B1A.jpeg

71BFA9DB-D767-49E0-8F13-7EC40A6F61B4.jpeg
4B74B064-4EF6-4649-BB11-09E74ACA39B6.jpeg

Good to be working on it again, it sho feels fine. Gonna be awesome.
 
Last edited:
Gorgeous man. Gotta ask - why the aluminum arms?
I was originally planning for this to be a dedicated speed run car and the aluminum arms not only don’t flex at speed, but they are also able to be dialed in for pretty much zero slop. I’m going to try very hard to never smack a curb.
Lovely work my brother!! Great to see you back at it :) (y)
Thank you sir! Feels great.
 
HW Max 6/1650 combo (it’s just to startwith. Jesus, give me a freaking break. I owned it, man),
I got my eye on you!! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Man this build looks freaking amazing. You have me over here feeling like the typhon I built the other day came out of a garbage can. One day I'm going to have to do a build where I go all out with nothing stock.
 
I got my eye on you!! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Man this build looks freaking amazing. You have me over here feeling like the typhon I built the other day came out of a garbage can. One day I'm going to have to do a build where I go all out with nothing stock.
I’ll be watching. But the wheel hexes and the diffs are stock. 😘
 
Well, I’m going in a bit of a different direction with this. Initially this was to be my SWB speed run build, but that one is waiting in the wings. Please stay tuned.
I figured I’d find a plan and get this one off the bench. It’s pretty much an over-the-top street basher, but I hope to learn a bit with it and it should take me pretty close to 100mph with the electronics I’m starting with. I already had most of the dry-fit part of the build done, sorry no pix. Details follow:
Scorched Chassis, Typhon,
Scorched Titanium center shafts,
Scorched hardened steel diff f/r input cups (holy moly man, they run true AF!!!),
Scorched adjustable rear toe blocks/hinge pin retainers, 1.3° toe,
Scorched titanium rear skid plate, chassis drilled accordingly (SPARKS BABY, YEAH!!!!),
PPS motor mount,
HW Max 6/1650 combo (it’s just to startwith. Jesus, give me a freaking break. I owned it, man),
46t Infraction center diff, 1million, (Scorched spool w/assorted pinions on hand for later speed runs)
GP5 front diff, 50k,
GP5 rear diff, 30k,
HR bulkhead covers,
Vitavon upper and lower arms, front,
Vitavon hub carriers, front and rear,
Vitavon rear arms.
Basher Queen Ackerman arm, adjustable servo saver, top plate, steering plates, servo mount, front and rear (Limitless) towers. Thanks Kimberly, you rock. Uber awesome sh*t, man!
Hardened tool steel CVD’s front and rear.
My next two days look to be potentially hectic, but I’ll follow up soon. Progress today:
View attachment 275946
View attachment 275948
View attachment 275951
View attachment 275952View attachment 275953
Good to be working on it again, it sho feels fine. Gonna be awesome.
Got a question about those Vitavon arms. How does the upper front arms lock the pillar ball in place? Meaning if I want to set the camber I’d have to use shims and loctite? That’s why I kinda like the stock uppers. I can fine tune the camber without the need for shims or anything. Second I noticed they had two holes where the shocks mount. Dunno if you have a set of GPM arms but I’m curious if the holes are similarly spaced. Last question. Any slop once installed? Overall thoughts? Was thinking of ordering a set for the new build to replace the GPM arms. I’m kind of a slop Nazi so if there’s anything else you can add that I’m forgetting to ask I’d appreciate it!! Nice build!
 
Got a question about those Vitavon arms. How does the upper front arms lock the pillar ball in place? Meaning if I want to set the camber I’d have to use shims and loctite? That’s why I kinda like the stock uppers. I can fine tune the camber without the need for shims or anything. Second I noticed they had two holes where the shocks mount. Dunno if you have a set of GPM arms but I’m curious if the holes are similarly spaced. Last question. Any slop once installed? Overall thoughts? Was thinking of ordering a set for the new build to replace the GPM arms. I’m kind of a slop Nazi so if there’s anything else you can add that I’m forgetting to ask I’d appreciate it!! Nice build!
Pillow balls are the same arrangement as stock with delrin inserts. I have no shims in there yet, but might not use them anyway. Still adjust camber the same way, put a drop of threadlocker on the ball stud and they don’t move anyway.
I don’t have any GPM arms, so I can’t say if the shock spacing is the same or not. Shocks will be on the outer hole to increase rate a bit.
If you shim the whole Vitavon enchilada there is zero slop. Like, nada. I use PTFE coated shims on the upper arm at the bulkhead for caster adjustment.
I know a lot of people run the GPM’s with good results but I’ve never tried them. This is the second build I’ve done with the Vitavon arms and I love the fact that they can be set up so well and still be so smooth.
 
Pillow balls are the same arrangement as stock with delrin inserts. I have no shims in there yet, but might not use them anyway. Still adjust camber the same way, put a drop of threadlocker on the ball stud and they don’t move anyway.
I don’t have any GPM arms, so I can’t say if the shock spacing is the same or not. Shocks will be on the outer hole to increase rate a bit.
If you shim the whole Vitavon enchilada there is zero slop. Like, nada. I use PTFE coated shims on the upper arm at the bulkhead for caster adjustment.
I know a lot of people run the GPM’s with good results but I’ve never tried them. This is the second build I’ve done with the Vitavon arms and I love the fact that they can be set up so well and still be so smooth.
So no shims needed on the lower arms? The stock upper and the GPM uses those little black plastic shims anyways for caster adjustment so I’m not worried about those. You saying I’ll need to find some other shims or you just went with PTFE for the smooth factor?
 
So no shims needed on the lower arms? The stock upper and the GPM uses those little black plastic shims anyways for caster adjustment so I’m not worried about those. You saying I’ll need to find some other shims or you just went with PTFE for the smooth factor?
I shim all the arms where the pins are, if necessary. On the inside of the upper arms where the upper pin blocks are is where I use the PTFE coated washers for caster, but you could still use the plastic shims if you wanted. The shims are .02 thick though, so you can really get all slop out and fine tune it really well. It’s a PITA to install them though since you have a short stack of them trying to squeeze them in and keep them centered for the pins, and I have big hands with somewhat numb fingers at this point.
I can’t tonight, but I’ll get you the specs on the shims (I got like 50 of them in a little plastic box, IIRC they fit the hubs on TA rigs) and take a better pic so you can see where I put them.
 
I shim all the arms where the pins are, if necessary. On the inside of the upper arms where the upper pin blocks are is where I use the PTFE coated washers for caster, but you could still use the plastic shims if you wanted. The shims are .02 thick though, so you can really get all slop out and fine tune it really well. It’s a PITA to install them though since you have a short stack of them trying to squeeze them in and keep them centered for the pins, and I have big hands with somewhat numb fingers at this point.
I can’t tonight, but I’ll get you the specs on the shims (I got like 50 of them in a little plastic box, IIRC they fit the hubs on TA rigs) and take a better pic so you can see where I put them.
Awesome thanks! I think I get what you’re saying but pics would be great. Plus a link to those shims. I’m trying to wrap up the new build. I should be able to run it next weekend but I ordered the Scorched bulkheads and Vitavon arms to replace the GPM arms. Also waiting on Scorched to release their front hubs so basically I’ll be tearing the whole thing down again when the parts arrive. Just want to make sure I have everything I need when parts arrive.
 
Man this thing is so beautiful I just keep coming back to look at it lol. I definitely went the quantity over quality route with all my rigs :ROFLMAO:
Thanks for the kind words! I’ve been really wanting to get back to this build but just haven’t been able to since before Christmas. It felt great to throw a few hours at it this weekend.
Awesome thanks! I think I get what you’re saying but pics would be great. Plus a link to those shims. I’m trying to wrap up the new build. I should be able to run it next weekend but I ordered the Scorched bulkheads and Vitavon arms to replace the GPM arms. Also waiting on Scorched to release their front hubs so basically I’ll be tearing the whole thing down again when the parts arrive. Just want to make sure I have everything I need when parts arrive.
I was wrong about the thickness of those, they’re actually 0.5mm. But they work fantastically for shimming hinge pins.
84557523-ABA7-4D1E-8B26-3669F1A96916.webp

33BB67AD-CF59-49C1-85D7-7DEB021C404C.webp

And of course, make sure you insist on HOBBY FUNNY BETTER brand. Unless you can find the SPEEDY AWESOME CAR JOY brand, but I haven’t had much luck with that.
 
Last edited:
Awesome build @Dan B.
Top-notch build as I imagined.
Thanks very much sir, especially coming from you! Probably be a day or two before I can get back to it, but I’m really getting excited to get it near the home stretch. Work has been a bear lately and I’m chasing a deadline this week.
 
Back
Top