Typhon Supermoto's Typhon Ownership Log

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 3s
Just picked up a 3s Typhon after being out of the market since buying a 2wd slash years ago. Its a whole different world now and the amount of performance you get per dollar these days (especially with Arrma) is insane. This will be a thread for the progress of my car, any issues, and any upgrades. So far I have had to set the mesh (way too tight from factory), fix the steering allignment, grease the diffs, fill the shocks (half empty from factory) and replace the diff fluid (again, half full and way too thin).

First pic when it was fresh out of the box and ran in the rain:

20220222_161151.jpg
 
You will probably find yourself changing out the stocker shocks at some point. They are known leakers and break at the rod ends.
Arrma 6s shocks seem to be best with a few minor mods. Minor Shimming at the rod ends for drive shaft clearances.
Good luck with your build. :cool:
 
You will probably find yourself changing out the stocker shocks at some point. They are known leakers and break at the rod ends.
Arrma 6s shocks seem to be best with a few minor mods. Minor Shimming at the rod ends for drive shaft clearances.
Good luck with your build. :cool:
Interesting. I actually have a lead on a 6s typhon for a good deal. Would a 6s typhon running on a 3s lipo perform the same as a 3s typhon?
 
So interesting development. Long story short I had an issue with the first Typhon and a replacement was processed. Upon delivery of the new one, I noticed clear fluid all over the motor area, transmission cover, and rear shock tower. None of the shocks are leaking, could it be from the rear diff?
 
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So interesting development. Long story short I had an issue with the first Typhon and a replacement was processed. Upon delivery of the new one, I noticed clear fluid all over the motor area, transmission cover, and rear shock tower. None of the shocks are leaking, could it be from the rear diff?

The limitless comes with this as well. I think it’s oil or protect from the factory to prevent rust.
 
I opened up the rear diff housing (not the diff itself) and there is clear fluid everywhere in there to the point that it was diluting what little grease they threw on the crown gear. The place I bought it sent out another replacement car and its all good this time.
 
I opened up the rear diff housing (not the diff itself) and there is clear fluid everywhere in there to the point that it was diluting what little grease they threw on the crown gear. The place I bought it sent out another replacement car and its all good this time.
The diff is a Leaker. This happens. Been there. Open it up to check the diff level. Top off. Clean out the whole diff bulkhead of silicone oil and use an automotive grease on the Main gears. This is Always done with Any new Arrma rig Before you run them. Or find out soon that your diffs will brick very much sooner than later.. Arrma does not use any oil for Protection. Chassis should be dry of any oil. Arrma has no reason to put oil where it does not belong.
Bad Assy. QC is their main problem.:confused: Easily solved however if you take the extra effort to check the whole rig over BEFORE you run it. Every new rig out the box done this way. Many with their first new Arrma neglect this part. Just want to bash immediately and end up with needless issues. Just that these RTR's are Not truly Ready to Run. Govern yourself accordingly.
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BTW, , a 6s Typhon will run fine on 3s and 4s. But 4s is the Sweet spot for off road. IMHO. I can get around 50MPH consistently with 21T pinion on 4s. No heat issues. Using one 40mm motor fan. Outside temps here are around 40F where I live. In summer temps, maybe 20t will be better.
 
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