Have you guys thought about buying the optional thicker sway bars,that would stiffen up the suspenion.What alternatives can you suggest?
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Have you guys thought about buying the optional thicker sway bars,that would stiffen up the suspenion.What alternatives can you suggest?
Have you guys thought about buying the optional thicker sway bars,that would stiffen up the suspenion.
She will wheelie on 4s big time. Nice long ones steering as u go good funAll good points for sure.
I just enjoy tinkering to be honest...and with the weather the way it is here right now I am not sure how many opportunities I'll have to run her in the coming weeks.
So...I figured what better way to become familiar with the truck than to do some basic mods/tear-downs.
From all that I have read and seen, the suspension certainly seems to do well with a higher spring rate and firmer damping.
I really want to be able to pull some wheelies on 4S... which seems difficult to do on the 12T pinion with the stock 100K cst center diff oil.
All that said, I see the merit in your suggestion to run stock and get a feel which I may do to get some baseline impressions.
Think Buck meant 10k stock, I'd recommend 100k center or more to keep from bleeding too much power to fronts. I just rebuilt entire rear diff with new Mugen shims all new gears and trying 20k. 50/100/20 will be my Outcast set up for now. Found rear crown gear damaged and planetary gears worn/pitted, hopefully shimming externally with extra bearing shim helps too.Buck, you say the center diff has 100K cst stock but isn't that 10K? And 7K front and rear diff?
Going with stiffer springs in the front will make your front flip even more bc the springs will act as a fulcrum point when you brake hard. If you're traction rolling while turning that's a separate issue and is a cause for stiffer springs. Landing big jumps requires thicker oil more than stiffer springs but of course you have to match your oil to your springs. I'd recommend just a slightly stiffer set over stock and use 90k front/75k rear shock oilSometimes it's trial and error, I'm trying stiffer because I bash hard on 6s, like big jumping, and getting tired of front roll overs with hard braking. Hoping to take some nose dip and tail drop away by going stiffer. Rig has too much front to back dipping I think. May need to go up in oil for proper dampening too. I'll try them out soon and get back to you. Too stiff isn't good either, rig gets overly bouncy, rides too rough. Going to experiment some.
Testing now will reply soon.Rich Duperbash, I just ordered the Mugen shim set too. What do you recommend for externally shimming? Interesting to hear from you how you like the new diff setup.
Just bashed the crap out of Outcast for quick test. Diff held up fine, but rear input cup spun loose at end of hard bash. Think I was planning to rethread lock cup grub after street test 2 nights ago and forgot.... Whoops. I used 3 Mugen planetary total, 2 on crown gear side, 1 on the other. Added 2 small Mugen to satellite gears for 6 total, and put 2 Kyosho .15 thick bearing shims on crown gear side, #96772. Tried to fit 3, but couldn't. Think 2 is perfect, effectively 3 times total thickness then stock .1 thick single shim if I'm not mistaken. Will post vid, hit one really big jump and lots of tumbles....Lol. Ran on punch 9 for first time, little sketchy on 6s, but fun.Rich Duperbash, I just ordered the Mugen shim set too. What do you recommend for externally shimming? Interesting to hear from you how you like the new diff setup.
Can't say I fully agree with that, as front dips, rear rises up with SWB chassis. In rougher terrain the nose can shovel down with harder breaking and dig causing flip. Big jumps depends on what one considers big. If you like going motocross big 10-15+ feet up, probably better off with stiffer springs and oil to match. I've found through testing under the same or very similar conditions that stiffer springs help reduce after bounce with bigger landings. As far as front dipping and break flipping, my Orange Teknos have vastly improved this running in rough, loose, and high traction surfaces. A lot of this boils down to driving style and personal preference.Going with stiffer springs in the front will make your front flip even more bc the springs will act as a fulcrum point when you brake hard. If you're traction rolling while turning that's a separate issue and is a cause for stiffer springs. Landing big jumps requires thicker oil more than stiffer springs but of course you have to match your oil to your springs. I'd recommend just a slightly stiffer set over stock and use 90k front/75k rear shock oil
I just tuned the brakes to 25% on the esc and made a huge difference no front flips.Just bashed the crap out of Outcast for quick test. Diff held up fine, but rear input cup spun loose at end of hard bash. Think I was planning to rethread lock cup grub after street test 2 nights ago and forgot.... Whoops. I used 3 Mugen planetary total, 2 on crown gear side, 1 on the other. Added 2 small Mugen to satellite gears for 6 total, and put 2 Kyosho .15 thick bearing shims on crown gear side, #96772. Tried to fit 3, but couldn't. Think 2 is perfect, effectively 3 times total thickness then stock .1 thick single shim if I'm not mistaken. Will post vid, hit one really big jump and lots of tumbles....Lol. Ran on punch 9 for first time, little sketchy on 6s, but fun.
Can't say I fully agree with that, as front dips, rear rises up with SWB chassis. In rougher terrain the nose can shovel down with harder breaking and dig causing flip. Big jumps depends on what one considers big. If you like going motocross big 10-15+ feet up, probably better off with stiffer springs and oil to match. I've found through testing under the same or very similar conditions that stiffer springs help reduce after bounce with bigger landings. As far as front dipping and break flipping, my Orange Teknos have vastly improved this running in rough, loose, and high traction surfaces. A lot of this boils down to driving style and personal preference.
Landing big jumps requires thicker oil more than stiffer springs but of course you have to match your oil to your springs.
Just broke second shock shaft on Kraton running Orange Teknos and 70/60 front/rear. Just got Tekno yellow springs to try out. My feeling is the oil plays the bigger role in absorbing bigger impacts with hard landings. Both breakages occurred from fairly extreme jumps with uneven terrain landings. That said, too stiff is definitely not good for handling, traction, or hard landings. Puts incredible stress on suspension parts, A arms, hinge pins, towers, and ultimately on the chassis. I'm going softer from here forward on Kraton and Outcast. Have done enough real world testing to believe a happy middle road may be best.Any experience to report on the subject? Not much real feedback on spring rates yet. I don't think I want to go too stiff, I like the way it soaks up the terrain as stock, but think it needs a little more stiffness and length for preload adjustment. I have no idea why they put stock springs so short that there is basically no preload adjustment left. I want to get my Kraton sitting a little higher, adjust the links and shock points to the max height. I'm thinking Green Springs all around, which is more than 1.0 stiffer than stock in Tekno rate units.
The Outcast SWB design does front roll easily with harder braking especially at speed on higher traction surfaces like grass. Orange Teknos actually feel good up front with preload set right. The back is simply too stiff for me at this point, trying yellow with lighter oil, may leave Oranges up front with lighter oil or as is with 70, not sure yet. Adjusting brake down one setting should help avoid front rolls, just don't hit anything...Lol.Good to know, I think Orange are too stiff. I'm running the same 70/60 oil on stock springs in the rear, and something black with a lot of coils but not really stiff for front springs, that's the springs that it came to me with. It really soaks up uneven terrain. I need to turn down my braking as it will nose-over if I'm really hard on the brakes.
This is only the second Arrma shaft I've broken, plus 2-3 shock ball ends. Not bad for the abuse I've put them through. Gonna try going softer first. Teknos do look pretty beefy though.If the shock shafts are a recurring problem, then the tekno shocks have thicker shafts, but they're a bit pricey. I'm willing to spend money to solve a problem and make it stronger.
Good to hear you're digging the yellows Buck.I went with Yellows all around, and 1000CST shock oil in all four.
Have not done any hard core bashing, but based on what I have seen so far, the yellows with the thicker oil provide nice damping without too much stiffness.
I have my preload set to about 3/4 of max.
Good ride height, handles well, absorbs bumps very nicely.
I also set my shock rebound to almost max, which keeps the tires planted over bumpy terrain, and levels the truck out nice and quick under transitional steering/maneuvers.
Yeah so far so good!Good to hear you're digging the yellows Buck.
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