Felony The Hardbody 93 FoxBody Mustang Project!!

[Tex Koder]

Well since you can fully see the belt due to the smaller radiator, I have done a belt system, with fan, alternator....


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Its a lot of parts but it does make it all look better. I also went ahead and made a battery for it as well. Not sure I'll have space for the battery but what the hell why not.


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The battery needs to be an Optima brand..

And the pulleys need real belts!


You're doing Great work!!

 

[nomis38]

The battery needs to be an Optima brand..

And the pulleys need real belts!

oh hell, so i need a brushed motor inside the fake engine moving the belt system.

You're doing Great work!!

Thank you sir!!




Fine damn it here you gooooo!!! You just ate up 5 minutes of my time and made my battery look way better, shame on you!!

 

[nomis38]

Had to do a redesign on the fan blades of the alt. and cooling fan. They printed wayyy to thin..

Awe look at the cute little alt fan... hahaha

 

[nomis38]

You know.... Just knocking it outta the damn park one print at a time... These pics were super satisfying. I love the supra but this touches my soul right here!!!

You didnt really think it had spark plugs for no reason did you...

Always loved that SVT wing. Never had one. You know all to well how good it is @Ron Burgandy

 

[nomis38]

Thanks @Tex Koder

This was one of my better foxbody's I had.... I will make LX tail lights for sure, was one of the first things I swapped astatically on my GT. Teal lx one in the backround and Red lx notch one off in the road lolol...

 

[Lizzy'sking]

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Heck ya
I’m a sucker for 90-93 fox bodies!!!!
Can’t wait to see your finished project!

This had been my first dream car since I was 5 I always loved the way they sound and they just look so damned sexy

 

[nomis38]

Engine bay is done, interior will be done tonight, YupEE!!

 

[nomis38]

Still a few supports to remove tomorrow and the whole interior will get painted piece by piece.

 

[Jerold]

Why is it called a Fox body.

 

[nomis38]

All painted up. The paint for the body is on order, should get here mid week or so. Should have all the body work done by then...

 

[nomis38]

Got the first coat of primer on the stang. Gonna sand and figure out all the places I need to put filler tomorrow. She's pretty rough looking still but that's to be expected.

 

[nomis38]

Ok so I have been learning a lot throughout this process omg....

Couple key things.

1. Body filler / Bondo / Wood filler is only to be used for leveling edges in very very small amounts. This kind of crap "pic below" works but is completely un-necessary and will waste a lot of time. Just sand the freaking plastic honestly and use a good filler/primer 2in1 spray!!

2. Super glue and activator is like the ultimate body filler and sands so easy. Also its much more stuck to the print then any filler as it melts itself into the plastic.

3. Use a 3d pen to fill any big gaps and to bond some things together.

4. Toss the powered hand sander to the side, Get 3" hook and loop sanding pads, get a adapter for your standard drill that velcro's these on, such as what comes with a headlight repair kit for a 1:1 car.

5. Use a heat gun for re-molding things. Surfaces that are imperfect may be able to be fixed with heat and shaping with your hand instead of using filler and sanding. This has now been the case on many things i've been doing. Such as this roof was a bit caved in, you could use a ton of filler and sanding, or 5 minutes with a heat gun and pop it out to where you want it. Much simpler.

Also look at this BA Luke Skywalker saber I just made lolol...

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Ok so I have been learning a lot throughout this process omg....

Couple key things.

1. Body filler / Bondo / Wood filler is only to be used for leveling edges in very very small amounts.

2. Super glue and activator is like the ultimate body filler and sands so easy. Also its much more stuck to the print then any filler as it melts itself into the plastic.

View attachment 347414View attachment 347415



3. Use a 3d pen to fill any big gaps and to bond some things together.

View attachment 347416



4. Toss the powered hand sander to the side, Get 3" hook and loop sanding pads, get a adapter for your standard drill that velcro's these on, such as what comes with a headlight repair kit for a 1:1 car.


View attachment 347417View attachment 347418

I did the same with superglue and activator. I also used some BSI ic2000 ruberized super glue with activator on some parts. I cannot say if it was better or worse.
I had tried sanding with a air powered Dual Action sander and it generated too much heat where it would melt the plastic and either create globs or warp larger flat surfaces. Ultimately it seemed that slow sanding by hand was best or using sanding blocks to save your hands from getting raw.

 

[nomis38]

I did the same with superglue and activator. I also used some BSI ic2000 ruberized super glue with activator on some parts. I cannot say if it was better or worse.
I had tried sanding with a air powered Dual Action sander and it generated too much heat where it would melt the plastic and either create globs or warp larger flat surfaces. Ultimately it seemed that slow sanding by hand was best or using sanding blocks to save your hands from getting raw.

Yeah I also have rubber infused CA. That stuff is super cool!! For bulk sanding my favorite to date is def the attachment for the drill. But yes you always will have to finish by hand 100%.

 

[Luke66]

wait if this is scaled for the 'detta, then this could actually become a useful thread for me! sub'd.

oh, also another question, will there be just a normal hood? The exposed engine is not my cup of tea. other than that, good lookin rig so far!

Oh, last question (I promise) why arent the files going to be public?

 

[nomis38]

This is a joint that was filled with super glue and sanded to a perfectly smooth surface. Start to finish maybe 10 or 15 minutes minutes lol. Wayyyy Freakin' Easier!!

No fumes "Bondo will fume out any garage or room its in". Way less dust to finish the surface when you sand it down. Zero time to wait for it to dry, This is great for an impatient mofo like me haha.

Note: Sand super glue with your drill attachement or power sander, its super fast and very little work. By hand its pretty brutal to sand and takes a while to get it perfectly flush.

 

[Luke66]

ahh, so that's how you keep it together...

 

[nomis38]

ahh, so that's how you keep it together...

No this is just for filling gaps. Its held together initially with epoxy. Then on the inside of the body over the entire joint I put fiber tape and shoegoo. Just like how you reinforce normal RC bodies.

Example:

 

[Luke66]

oh, also another question, will there be just a normal hood? The exposed engine is not my cup of tea. other than that, good lookin rig so far!

Oh, last question (I promise) why arent the files going to be public?

 

[nomis38]

oh, also another question, will there be just a normal hood? The exposed engine is not my cup of tea. other than that, good lookin rig so far!

Oh, last question (I promise) why arent the files going to be public?

I purchased the files so I cannot share them for free on random sites. Yes the original file has a hood and its just one solid piece. I can however PM link you to the seller and the files. Understand that with all 3d print files I had to do a lot of work on them to get them the way I want. And you will to. If you just slice and print the body will be an inch think and weigh prolly 10lbs and on a slow "normal" printer take you a month to print 24/7 lol. And it wont fit what you want it to. It'll be to big or to small.

Being that the files are either huge or small, they will need scaled. You will want to print a test print of the entire thing at 0% infill that will be a complete waste and take again on a "normal" slow printer most of a week to print. Just to find out what you need to adjust to the files to make the body fit.