The unofficial Losi Tenacity DB Pro thread by Alex.M. and slick2500.

[parcou]

I have a DB Pro that I plan to run in parking lots or in the dirt as a get-together vehicle. I noticed on the parking lot initial run that the shock spring could stand to be stiffer - lots of squat, dive, and some roll. It was not clear which spring could fit these shocks, as the spring specifications seem to not state the inner diameter, and it was also foggy how the SCTE, 22, and DB Pro compared on these springs. So I bought the stiff fronts (TLR233020) to learn if they would fit. In fact, the TLR233020 springs are a bit small in diameter, like around 15.5mm versus the 17mm that come with the DB Pro. Are there other springs on the market that would fit the stock DB Pro shocks?

Hello

It is a fun RC to bash....I really enjoy mine after few minor tweaks... I feel the shocks are good since it is not a jumper/send it RC and I run it like a desert buggy. The shocks respond REALLY good AFTER some needed changing.

• Stock Front Shocks: 30wt
• Stock Rear Shocks: 30wt
• 42.5/30wt f/r (currently running)

I like the 42.5 in the front along with the shock collars adjusted on all sides. Most important change was adding the drop screws. The shock pull at the shock bottom end. They did not add the droop screws in although it had a metal chassis. After adding those I adjusted the droops to take the stress off the shock bottom and this allowed the shocks to have the recoil they needed to be a good performer. Took that out you are seeing and they come back up when I push the front/back down quickly.... It would hang before the droops.

I posted that here:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ead-by-alex-m-and-slick2500.14799/post-593673

See how the arms are more up after adding the droops this greatly helps the shock springs work as designed
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ead-by-alex-m-and-slick2500.14799/post-590228

 

[BobW]

I have read your posts. You mention in your post that not only do you change the oil, but also the coil.

Just to put something out there, here is my buggy so far:

 

[parcou]

I have read your posts. You mention in your post that not only do you change the oil, but also the coil.

Just to put something out there, here is my buggy so far:

View attachment 170651

Really looking good....NICE! I need to go back and review those posts. I am still using the same shock coils I never changed those only the fluid all else is stock.

By the tires, you look more on-road than off-road. Nice upgrades... If so droop screws better help you get that slant stance for on-road bashing to keep that nose down.

 

[BobW]

I also have a set of Proline SCT Badlands. So I may set it up more for road or more for off-road depending. I have been running it like this on a 4S Gen's Ace Redline 6000mAh LiHV.

For on-road, I run the shock collars all the way up. In a pinch, I could get another set of stock DB Pro springs and cut off a few coils and run the shock collars down lower to stiffen it up slightly.

 

[parcou]

I also have a set of Proline SCT Badlands. So I may set it up more for road or more for off-road depending. I have been running it like this on a 4S Gen's Ace Redline 6000mAh LiHV.

For on-road, I run the shock collars all the way up. In a pinch, I could get another set of stock DB Pro springs and cut off a few coils and run the shock collars down lower to stiffen it up slightly.

If you do get another set, get it from Jenny's as the go-to spot for assembled parts...

https://jennysrc.com/collections/losi-tenacity-pro-los03027

 

[BobW]

Thanks for the link to Jenny's.

I got some droop screws and installed them in the front so far, as shown below. I also got some extra spring sets and cut two coils off a rear spring to make a stiff front spring. My scale is a little jittery, but I think That spring went from about 3.9 to 6.0 pounds/inch.

 

[parcou]

Thanks for the link to Jenny's.

I got some droop screws and installed them in the front so far, as shown below. I also got some extra spring sets and cut two coils off a rear spring to make a stiff front spring. My scale is a little jittery, but I think That spring went from about 3.9 to 6.0 pounds/inch.

View attachment 171390

Good...you are making progress. What's important here is how you bash and finding your needs. I adore the Losi DB Pro it drives like no other RC I have and in the environment I have found for it like a desert scene with small hills, banks, straights, etc this little buggy goes.

Outside of the jumping I do not do with it, this is how I drive mine like in the video it just kills this type of bashing...droop screws really helped my suspension for this, Tekno outdrives and driveshafts and close to stop diff fluids:

 

[BobW]

I'm kind of looking forward to this clear lexan coming out soon: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOS-LOS230053

 

[parcou]

I'm kind of looking forward to this clear lexan coming out soon: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOS-LOS230053

Wow...nice one I did not know that existed! Good find!

 

[parcou]

I'm kind of looking forward to this clear lexan coming out soon: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOS-LOS230053

I was adding lights to my Losi and thought about your message again on the body. No matter what body you get reinforce it. I am on my second body which I got from Jenny but this one I added drywall tape and E6000 or shoeglue. Bashing the body gets these spider cracks around the screw holes so I put protection behind them and come locations nylon washers. Wish I had pics of the first body to show how bad it broke apart just bashing no jumps or sent it.

Something to watch out for and keep eye on...

 

[BobW]

I was thinking to add tiny o-rings to each screw between the inside and outside of each screw hole, so the lexan is sandwiched by o-rings and not pressed directly to the screw.

 

[parcou]

I was thinking to add tiny o-rings to each screw between the inside and outside of each screw hole, so the lexan is sandwiched by o-rings and not pressed directly to the screw.

Excellent idea exactly what is needed to stop that. If you find a size that works well for you share back here. Like to do on my next body.

 

[BobW]

Possibly the screws would need to be longer to accommodate the extra o-ring thickness, or maybe an o-ring inside and a plastic washer outside, but I am thinking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/1-5x2-5mm-Metric-Buna-N-Durometer-Section/dp/B0180EQL78

 

[parcou]

Good bash today on my friend's farm where we made a track. David and Goliath his 6S E-Revo against the smaller 3S Losi DB but she held her own as always with it. He has power but Losi is but maneuvres well. Off the line I always get his since he spins like crazy the Losi does spin to but the belted MX Badlands 2.8" dig and move so I get him until we get to the straights and get the edge back in the corner turns.... Losi is a fun little rig! The non-ballooning helps in the loose dirt to keep more tires down...Revo balloons like crazy.

 

[Riko]

I took delivery about 1 month ago of mine, but didnt have the time to look at it closely.. but I did see that the seals were broken and the zip ties are gone.
Didnt thing too much of it honestly, wich is always a mistake as I will show.
But meanwhile I did I set it up, bound it with my new fancy DX5 Pro radio, even removed the stickers, and than I realised:
- dusty cabin
- scratches on the body
- broken ESC.

Chassis, suspension, etc, all did look untouched however.
So, its a mixed bag.
Either way, the broken ESC mount made me wanna either have a refund or a swap.
Pictures:

It was their last Fox body model, I suspect a showroommodel that had been sitting for a long time, but that doesn't explain the broken ESC mount....

Anyway, after sending those pictures they admited they were in the wrong and should have communicated about it being a showroommodel.

So they quickly offered a whole swap, I got a basically new DB from a Lucas kit, but could keep my black (scratched) body, kept the box, etc. All done in shop with me standing next to the seller while he did all the swaps (pinions, tools transmittor etc all from the Lucas body too).
But we didnt swap the wings, so I have a Fox body, with the black wing from a Lucas body, wich looks better, imo

This if from before the swap and without all of my packages arriving.

I already replaced the rear alu chassis brace upgrade, did the 3S conversion and intalled the DE Racing mud guards, so I had to swap them over again.
+ I did get a gift card for the body issues too, 60 dollars.

Anyway, here is the swapped body on the new chassis with all the parts ready to install.

Didnt want to ride it before I first installed all my orderd alu upgrades, these include:
- DE Racing mud guards, wich I found the right part number thanx to this forum. I did had to cut them slightly, since they were rubbing the inner wheels
- Exotek steering kit
- full Losi alu upgrades: Front and rear chassis braces, you do need shorter screws for these!!!, rear hubs, front spindles with carriers
- Savox 1283 servo: .13s and 30kg @6V
- traxxas receiver box, tight fit and not necessary, but did som cutting to get some more slack in the fitment process.
- RPM skidplates

Also got myself a fancy DX5 Pro radio, wich is already set up.

And last, the full spektrum range of batteries and charger. 2 3S 100C 5000mah lipo's with the Spectrum dual charger and a nice safe Bat-safe to keep it all tidy and safe

Last hastle, my UPS costs that have been paid double, since the package arrived unexpectedly after 12 days or so of the supposed delivery date
So what happened is my room mates accepted the package and the driver asked to pay the costs, but I already did as soon as I got notified by UPS I had to pay costs, when it entered the country.
So UPS received double payment

Than 2 weeks later, via UPS customer service wich was difficult to get the right mail from, the boss of the driver, contacted me that the driver would return and bring back the money back, wich they did, so all worked out good in the end.

Pictures part 2, close up of the installed upgrades and mods and small fitment issues.

 

[Riko]

The exotek upgrade is sweeeet, so free flowing.
The only thing holding the whole steering back from perfection is the little slop from the stock parts such as the adjustment bars for the toe and camber.
The ball bearings on those give a bit of slack.
And honestly, the upgraded aluminium spindle carriers too..but they are nice and should thoughen it up.

Pics of the alu upgrades:

its not that clear, but you can see the mud guards have been shaved a bit on top to stop the rubbing against the inside of the rims...

The servo is maybe a bit overkill but the respons is on point.
Little issue here is the TLR alu servo arm, its to short or too low, if either is fixed, the head of the screw wont hit the actual servo in full lock.
So I lose a tiny bit of my end point to the right because of that.
Pitty for the servo arm, but its an easy fix.

Here you can see the screwhead where it hits the servo

Hope to have enough time by next weekend or so to acutally take it for a ride, because everything in between purchasing and finishing, has already been very bumpy

A close up of the stock servo link and a screw I had left, not sure anymore if thats the stock one or not.

I did have to force the screw into the servo arm because its 1 size bigger.
When using a stock screw, I did had a nut to have it fixed in place on top, so it came lose.
But forcing one size bigger didnt seem to affect operation.

As you can see, the bearing thing that allows the servo link to move free, it sits a tad to low, so the head of the screw will touch the body of the servo.

So you, will have to look for a longer or a higher sitting servo arm, easy solution.

Here is the Traxxas box that makes the electronics sealed off from the outside, rather than the open wide stock receiver sitting on the side of the body lol
I had to shave of some material to make it fit a bit easier on both sides.
It can be done without, but didnt feel ok to me since the housing of the central diff is also plastic and I felt some tension, better take some slack off was my thinking.

With the wires for the ESC, the Servo and the lights, and such a large receiver, it is a very tight fitting, so I was a tad concerned about damaging my cables, but it worked out good.
I even got the antenna to sit in its stock place with the pole thing.
That was the most fidly job of all

I forgot the most vital part of many rc cars, RPM chassis protection

Cant wait to ride it!

Still have not taken it to my local track because I don't wanna ride in rain or mud and the track has never been dry for the last couple of weeks.

So had time to fiddle with the fake antenna I bought to find out the plastic attachment was utter crap, made out of bad quality 3D printed plastic.
So I made it fit differently and made up a little flag too

I wonder how long the construction will hold up on its maiden voyage

 

[parcou]

@Riko

Welcome! Nice RC and all the upgrades and pic are nice. It is a really fun rig to bash around I do not care to jump it but use it as a dessert buggy style bashing and it rocks.

Looks like you hit all the good stuff two things to keep an eye on. The stock tires have come unglued so watch that but I have never used mine just from videos and what I have read.

More importantly, the outdrives from the diffs for the driveshafts. They are too damn soft and eat into the metal but I have posted here what I needed to upgrade to which was the TLR version. The Losi HD ones did OK. I have those if you are ever interested.

 

[Riko]

thx for the heads up!

cant wait to get it out for sure!

Yeah, seen it too on a lot of videos, I came prepared and got some glue just in case

As for the outdrives, I'll wait till they fail, the truck hasnt even seen the outside yet

 

[parcou]

thx for the heads up!

cant wait to get it out for sure!

Yeah, seen it too on a lot of videos, I came prepared and got some glue just in case

As for the outdrives, I'll wait till they fail, the truck hasnt even seen the outside yet

Smart...keep watch save the money until needed. Let me correct something else. The Losi HD outdrives work good but what happened as a result they were so HD that ate into the driveshaft. So this is why I had to go full Tekno for both and the Tekno driveshaft was a different size would not fit the Losi or stock outdrives. Just FYI but the Losi worked well if the driveshafts would have lasted.

 

[parcou]

Posted here about the Losi service maintenance and a few updates:

The one I will call out the most here is shimming. Losi DB is a nice RC but I had my bad days due to poor diff shimming. The rear diff has 2 stock shims on the input drive going to the diff crown gear so I no changes there. However, when the diff is in the housing there is a huge gear mesh gap before the input begins the contact crown and turn it.

Since the crown gear is turned around, there are shims on the cup side to push it closer to the mesh and I have none on the crown side. I had 2x 0.3mm shims in place already. I had to add one more for 3x 0.3mm shims to have a good gear mesh to the crown gear & input gear.

It may not be the case for all as shimming is different for all, but check it. All 3 diffs I did have to add an extra shim inside on each end of the diffs to remove the outdrives slop. I could move them in/out about 1-2mm on each diff but after shimming the diffs outdrives, no movement.

Gear shimming and gear slop had me in pain the first two months with the DB until this was figured out!