The unofficial Losi Tenacity DB Pro thread by Alex.M. and slick2500.

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Someone is selling sct410.3 shocks for a really good price, I personally own a sct410.3 and tried to see if the shocks would fit on the DB but they are too long. Is it a bad idea to put shocks on that are to long so they are under constant compression to fit? Is there a way to properly mount up shocks that are a bit too long?
 
Maxx. D said:
Someone is selling sct410.3 shocks for a really good price, I personally own a sct410.3 and tried to see if the shocks would fit on the DB but they are too long. Is it a bad idea to put shocks on that are to long so they are under constant compression to fit? Is there a way to properly mount up shocks that are a bit too long?
Click to expand...

You will be messing with the ride height, compression/rebound and handling of the buggy even if they fit. Why do you want to screw in different shocks?
 
Thanks for the reply, I have been really struggling with suspension setup with these shocks. I recently took a gamble and drilled out my pistons to 1/16 and it did not go according to plan I lost nearly all damping until i mixed 60w shock oil with a few drops of 200k diff fluid lol. The front sct410.3 shocks fit perfectly in the rear but then I don't have a solution for the front.
 
Maxx. D said:
Thanks for the reply, I have been really struggling with suspension setup with these shocks. I recently took a gamble and drilled out my pistons to 1/16 and it did not go according to plan I lost nearly all damping until i mixed 60w shock oil with a few drops of 200k diff fluid lol. The front sct410.3 shocks fit perfectly in the rear but then I don't have a solution for the front.
Click to expand...

I have found the stock shocks to be very good for it's application....Keep in mind it is not a basher so it's not a jumper. Yes I do take mine over small jumps NO SEND it....it is a DB = desert buggy.... and the shocks work good when you run the rig on that uneven bumpy stuff...floats over it. So much so I have a spare set from Jenny's since they are so cheap.

YES...I did make some changes to coils and oil for example. 30/30wt is stock I am doing 42.5/30w right now. I also added droop screws when I posted here before will add again. I think this is a real miss especially for the front. Losi adds the hole but no screw and we have a metal chassis. This now provides the resistance needed to help keep that front up so it recoils better and sits right...as well as the rear that is pulls the shock to its bottom...now I can adjust the droop to stop that. So the oil, coil adjustment, droop screws all very cheap simple mods made it ride even better than it did before...

Not totally sure what you are aiming for...

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What type of screws did you use to adjust the droop? I need to figure out how to bleed these shocks before I change the wt lol
 
Ruzty1311 said:
What type of screws did you use to adjust the droop? I need to figure out how to bleed these shocks before I change the wt lol
Click to expand...

That Sir was a challenge....although they proved the arms with the hole for the droop screw it was a big damn hole. I had the better Arrma droop screws and M2C droop screws and all were too small for the droop hole. Maybe Losi made some which I did not look for so I was not going to wait on another order.

I went to Home Depot and found a few sizes and the M5x10mm were good with enough stem to part through. I did have to machine or dremel a flat notch in the end of the screw but that was easy to do so I can turn it with a flat head. The M5 head could be a little smaller (M4) but it works I need the treads to me M5 width so to find that with a smaller head would take more time. No issues just a big head I wanted more droop...it would be an issue if you wanted just a tiny bit of droop since the screw head is so big. So think on that before getting these and if you find something better...post it back here:

1629051519795.png
 
Hi parcou, I know that the DB is not meant for hard bashing but I actually find the car very durable after upgrading the driveline, the only thing i have broken aside from driveline was a shock rod end. My goal is to have these shocks absorb medium sized jumps. Do the droop screws only save rod ends and internals or is there a performance boost as well?
 
Another good day with the belted MX Badlands on the DB.... It has actually forced me to learn a new way to drive it since it does not turn into pizza cutters losing traction and keeps the flat grip so if I turn and catch a bit of grass when off the dirt area it will bit and flip in a turn or dirt if I don't get going... the point is they grip and stay true to size in turns, drift, etc so all that contact makes it behave so different is a very positive way since I have grip!

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ead-by-alex-m-and-slick2500.14799/post-577452

1629070205924.png


Maxx. D said:
Hi parcou, I know that the DB is not meant for hard bashing but I actually find the car very durable after upgrading the driveline, the only thing i have broken aside from driveline was a shock rod end. My goal is to have these shocks absorb medium sized jumps. Do the droop screws only save rod ends and internals or is there a performance boost as well?
Click to expand...

I hear ya friend! I have the Tekno driveshafts as well so it made a hell of a durability change so was worth the cost. YES...to your point this is one major benefit to droop screws. It takes the stress off the shock end. Before my droops the rear shocks are at full extension since the arms rest so low/down and this is not good since it can bottom out the shock. By adding the droop I now have the arms more up and this also compresses the shock so it cannot fully extend to destroy the shock rod end...so all that stress now goes to the chassis which stops at a point I set by the droop which protects your shocks. There are other benefits to droops but this is certainly a big one.
 
parcou said:
I went to Home Depot and found a few sizes and the M5x10mm were good with enough stem to part through. I did have to machine or dremel a flat notch in the end of the screw but that was easy to do so I can turn it with a flat head. The M5 head could be a little smaller (M4) but it works I need the treads to me M5 width so to find that with a smaller head would take more time. No issues just a big head I wanted more droop...it would be an issue if you wanted just a tiny bit of droop since the screw head is so big. So think on that before getting these and if you find something better...post it back here:
Click to expand...
Couldn't you use these M5 screws and simply grind down the head end to make the head thinner?
 
Hazardy said:
Couldn't you use these M5 screws and simply grind down the head end to make the head thinner?
Click to expand...

Yes....if I had a shop and grinder :) you are right. I sold my home in Feb for double the price and the pandemic has new homes prices crazy....we are in an apartment for now holding out...all my shop tools are in storage so cannot do all the things I would like to do....but right on!
Maxx. D said:
ok cool, sounds like a cheap part that can help a lot. Does anyone know any that fit and have the part number?
Click to expand...
I posted about what I found and used at Home Depot. I posted a LOSI part number I ordered it just to see if it is a direct fit will let you know when I get it... the link is above...
 
Maxx. D said:
ok cool, sounds like a cheap part that can help a lot. Does anyone know any that fit and have the part number?
Click to expand...
@Hazardy

This post is for anyone who would like to add droop screws to the Losi DB Pro arms which I will say is a great uprade to help take stress off the end-links of the shocks. Overall performance of the suspension has been exellent with the shocks as well for rebound.

I did not do this in my original post I used screws from Home Depot. I bought the Team Losi droop since I have a spare set of arms as backup. They do work GOOD on the Losi DB Pro although it is not listed as compatible for this model.

Nice steady down-force just keep screwing it in until it bits and it's a nice snug tight fit...spot on:

Team Losi Racing Droop Screws - TLR245000
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-l...V4oJuPNa5IbtUg_xeM56Mkh4LqhGf0thoCsd8QAvD_BwE

1629590683144.png


3mm hex driver to start it in
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2mm hex driver to adjust the height
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I did not use a tap tool whatever that is...just slow downward pressure
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Last edited:
I just got a DB Pro in the mail and the center diff leaked all over the box. 2 questions:

  • What diff oil weights are most of you using?
  • Is there a video showing taking out the center diff? The diagram in the back of the manual isn't hugely helpful for me.
 
synic said:
I just got a DB Pro in the mail and the center diff leaked all over the box. 2 questions:

  • What diff oil weights are most of you using?
  • Is there a video showing taking out the center diff? The diagram in the back of the manual isn't hugely helpful for me.
Click to expand...
Sir, I spent weeks reading all pages here on diff oil and what people are using....it is ALL over the place on diff weights that makes my numbers and stock weight look wrong. I just bash it and I do not care to jump this one is not made for sending....here are my notes:

  • current - 7/10/5 f/c/r - June 12, 2021 trying 7/15/5
  • OEM
    • Front Diff: 5K
    • Center Diff: 5K
    • Rear Diff: 3K
Again ppl are using weights I have seen for the Infraction and Big Rock...each his own :)

See if I can find a video.... center is easy removing the screws under the bottom of the center diff and on the top one all few it will allow you to pull it out and remove the center driveshafts have the center diff in hand..
synic said:
I just got a DB Pro in the mail and the center diff leaked all over the box. 2 questions:

  • What diff oil weights are most of you using?
  • Is there a video showing taking out the center diff? The diagram in the back of the manual isn't hugely helpful for me.
Click to expand...

This guy is long-winded but the beginning of the video shows him removing the center diff/motor

 
parcou said:
Sir, I spent weeks reading all pages here on diff oil and what people are using....it is ALL over the place on diff weights that makes my numbers and stock weight look wrong. I just bash it and I do not care to jump this one is not made for sending....here are my notes:

  • current - 7/10/5 f/c/r - June 12, 2021 trying 7/15/5
  • OEM
    • Front Diff: 5K
    • Center Diff: 5K
    • Rear Diff: 3K
Again ppl are using weights I have seen for the Infraction and Big Rock...each his own :)

See if I can find a video.... center is easy removing the screws under the bottom of the center diff and on the top one all few it will allow you to pull it out and remove the center driveshafts have the center diff in hand..


This guy is long-winded but the beginning of the video shows him removing the center diff/motor

Click to expand...
Thank you so much for the info. My LHS doesn't have those weights so I just ordered some and it'll be here this weekend.

I love RC Car Garage, so that's a huge help!
 
I have a DB Pro that I plan to run in parking lots or in the dirt as a get-together vehicle. I noticed on the parking lot initial run that the shock spring could stand to be stiffer - lots of squat, dive, and some roll. It was not clear which spring could fit these shocks, as the spring specifications seem to not state the inner diameter, and it was also foggy how the SCTE, 22, and DB Pro compared on these springs. So I bought the stiff fronts (TLR233020) to learn if they would fit. In fact, the TLR233020 springs are a bit small in diameter, like around 15.5mm versus the 17mm that come with the DB Pro. Are there other springs on the market that would fit the stock DB Pro shocks?
 

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