The unofficial Losi Tenacity DB Pro thread by Alex.M. and slick2500.

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parcou said:
Hello

It is a fun RC to bash....I really enjoy mine after few minor tweaks... I feel the shocks are good since it is not a jumper/send it RC and I run it like a desert buggy. The shocks respond REALLY good AFTER some needed changing.

  • Stock Front Shocks: 30wt
  • Stock Rear Shocks: 30wt
  • 42.5/30wt f/r (currently running)

I like the 42.5 in the front along with the shock collars adjusted on all sides. Most important change was adding the drop screws. The shock pull at the shock bottom end. They did not add the droop screws in although it had a metal chassis. After adding those I adjusted the droops to take the stress off the shock bottom and this allowed the shocks to have the recoil they needed to be a good performer. Took that out you are seeing and they come back up when I push the front/back down quickly.... It would hang before the droops.

I posted that here:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ead-by-alex-m-and-slick2500.14799/post-593673

See how the arms are more up after adding the droops this greatly helps the shock springs work as designed
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ead-by-alex-m-and-slick2500.14799/post-590228
Click to expand...
where'd you get the droop screws for your DB? Might have to pick up some of those for mine.
 
smirkracing said:
What size shims do you need for the diff?
Click to expand...
Hello.

For the outside of the diff, I used these on the cup side since the crown gear head is turned to the outside which is different from the Arrma diffs which you would normally shim from the crown side, TRB Shim kit

Not sure which shims you are referring to but I did add these shims to the outdrives inside the cup. They are the same ones I used for my 6S Infraction diff but work on this RC here, ARA709057. Mine had to much back/forth movement. Inside the cup, I added the stock shim back and placed one of these on top. Last I put the pin in that holds the outdrive. I did not have to force the pin back in I was able to apply a small amount of pressure and it slid in. The outdrives turned good, no binding, no back/forth movement.

Keep in mind last time I did a 20 battery pack service I did not need the extra shims in both places so at 40+ runs had some slop. This is why I added them to this service. Shimming is something that will vary from RC to RC but not a one-time fix. Recheck for slop and shim as needed at service intervals.
 
Hello, Merry Christmas to all! Recently I have picked up a set of HPI vorza D8 shocks and decided to fit them to the DB Pro and to my surprise they fit! It's a bit off right now because all four shocks are the same length and the front shocks barely fit while the rear shocks were barely long enough so the front sits higher than the rear but with the right tuning I believe this can adapt the DB to a more hard core basher. Quick question, as they are mounted right now you cannot pivot and or swivel the shock on the cap since there is no pivot ball, just wondering if there is consequences for that or durability concerns. They can pivot and swivel on the bottom screw where they mount just not the top.
 
Toiletpimp said:
Nope. It's the DB pro cage and body mounted up to my Typhon for U4RC racing. Wanted a bad ass IRS rig for the class we run. I'll grab some other pics of what I did...
View attachment 76782Boom
Click to expand...
Sick bulid just put the db pro body and cage on my typhon as well wanted a db pro but already had the typhon sitting around and wanted to still be able to run 6s still flys like a stock typhon off my mini ramp

20211229_152946.jpg


20211229_153008.jpg
 
brbrb said:
Hey, i do run the db pro most stock, savöx 2292sg servo.
So bashing aint my thing so i did a buggy rebuild but hadn't had a chance to Drive it yet.
Diffs are rebuilt 4K/4K/3k
2s Pinion
2s battery

View attachment 140173

View attachment 140174

View attachment 140175
Click to expand...
Are these the correct parts to make the wing conversion? Is the wing mount a direct bolt on?

TLR240016 - Team Losi Racing 8ight XT Wing Mount: https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-losi-racing-8ight-xt-wing-mount-tlr240016/p-qqqet2qqgz2zqctz

TLR240012 - Team Losi Racing Plastic 1/8 Buggy Wing w/Wickerbill (yellow): https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-l...llow-ifmar-legal-tlr240012/p-qtazq2tq7b2xactz

Associated Hardware:
TLR5909 - 3x16 Button Head
TLR6313 - 3x.5x5.5mm Locknut
TLR5911 - 3x20 Button Head
TLR5904 - 3x12 Button Head

Thanks!
 
does anyone know if the sct 2.0 center diff mount and motor mount are a direct bolt on upgrade? Also, does anyone know if the lazernut battery try is a direct bolt on too. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
nolacross70 said:
anybody upgrade center drive doggone and cups there very soft
Click to expand...
Hello and welcome and nice RC pick...

The stock stuff is too soft and you can see after reading all these pages. The Losi HD stuff I found is not that much better it does do better than stock but you can see in time it eats into the outdrives. I bought this and took care of the issue. I still have the Losi HD stuff leftover if you want them cheap...I think:

I bought Tekno. Ordered 2 for F/R
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008E4WHSW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Having the better outdrives now but this did require the better/their driveshafts
 
Last edited:
I installed the tekno driveshafts front and rear. I have the scte 2.0 center shafts and outdrives. Much better than stock
 
E-fanatic said:
I installed the tekno driveshafts front and rear. I have the scte 2.0 center shafts and outdrives. Much better than stock
Click to expand...
Just got my tekno front and rear shafts, already had the scte 2.0 center shafts. Really tempted to get a sensored 4s system and try to compete with purpose built race buggies. My only concern is that i'm not sure the diffs could handle it.
 
Maxx. D said:
Just got my tekno front and rear shafts, already had the scte 2.0 center shafts. Really tempted to get a sensored 4s system and try to compete with purpose built race buggies. My only concern is that i'm not sure the diffs could handle it.
Click to expand...

Good question. I'd like to know as well.

I do have the Tekno stronger driveshafts and stronger outdrives so I do not eat anymore into them like the stock. So 4S could be possible. I'm going to try what @E-fanatic did I bought off ebay a 2650kv motor and I want to see what that brings me on still 3S before going 4S. I am still on the 15T pinion not sure if he stayed on that pinion or changed with the motor.

Plan to install it this summer. I have a Game Changer fan on the motor now I hope at the most the 2650kv helps it to run cooler.
 
Hello all,

I just purchased one of these buggies. I read that the Spektrum S614 servo was garbage, so I purchased a JX Ecoboost CLS6322HV servo and aluminum servo horn. When I installed it in the buggy, it started to glitch as soon as I turn it on. I tested the servo with a servo tester, and it works fine. I plugged the original Spektrum servo into the receiver, and it works fine. I tried plugging a 24V 5000uF capacitor into the receiver in parallel with the JX Ecoboost servo, and it still glitches as soon as I turn the ESC on.

I would say I just got a bad servo, but it doesn't have any issues with the servo tester. Has anyone else had these issues, and were you able to work through a solution?

Thanks,
Patrick
 
ptuxbury said:
Hello all,

I just purchased one of these buggies. I read that the Spektrum S614 servo was garbage, so I purchased a JX Ecoboost CLS6322HV servo and aluminum servo horn. When I installed it in the buggy, it started to glitch as soon as I turn it on. I tested the servo with a servo tester, and it works fine. I plugged the original Spektrum servo into the receiver, and it works fine. I tried plugging a 24V 5000uF capacitor into the receiver in parallel with the JX Ecoboost servo, and it still glitches as soon as I turn the ESC on.

I would say I just got a bad servo, but it doesn't have any issues with the servo tester. Has anyone else had these issues, and were you able to work through a solution?

Thanks,
Patrick
Click to expand...
Okay... just to add a little more information, I just powered the receiver separately from a 10A CC BEC, and I still get the weird servo glitching when I power up. Maybe I have a defective servo, but it seems odd that it would run fine with a servo tester.

The rx/tx combo I'm using is a Radiolink R7FG with the RC6GS v2. Could there be a setting in there I'm missing for analog vs digital servos?

I've got another servo on order, so we'll see if the issue goes away with that.
 
ptuxbury said:
Hello all,

I just purchased one of these buggies. I read that the Spektrum S614 servo was garbage, so I purchased a JX Ecoboost CLS6322HV servo and aluminum servo horn. When I installed it in the buggy, it started to glitch as soon as I turn it on. I tested the servo with a servo tester, and it works fine. I plugged the original Spektrum servo into the receiver, and it works fine. I tried plugging a 24V 5000uF capacitor into the receiver in parallel with the JX Ecoboost servo, and it still glitches as soon as I turn the ESC on.

I would say I just got a bad servo, but it doesn't have any issues with the servo tester. Has anyone else had these issues, and were you able to work through a solution?

Thanks,
Patrick
Click to expand...
Welcome!

Not saying this is the answer but I had the same issue happen with a different servo. My issue was when I screwed down the servo horn on the 25T spin it was too long. I was hitting the inside board and it glitched. When I used a smaller screw I had no issues. My issue...not sure when you test it on the rig if the servo horn is on or off.

Just sharing
 
parcou said:
t saying this is the answer but I had the same issue happen with a different servo. My issue was when I screwed down the servo horn on the 25T spin it was too long. I was hitting the inside board and it glitched.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I forgot to mention that the issue still happens when I loosen the servo arm screw and take the horn off completely. Thanks for the responding though. I appreciate it!
 
ptuxbury said:
Yeah, I forgot to mention that the issue still happens when I loosen the servo arm screw and take the horn off completely. Thanks for the responding though. I appreciate it!
Click to expand...
Thx

Weird...you may have mentioned this but without installing it does it do the same if you plugged this servo in the receiver of another RC?
 

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