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Can you post a video with the issue? Might show somethingOkay... just to add a little more information, I just powered the receiver separately from a 10A CC BEC, and I still get the weird servo glitching when I power up. Maybe I have a defective servo, but it seems odd that it would run fine with a servo tester.
The rx/tx combo I'm using is a Radiolink R7FG with the RC6GS v2. Could there be a setting in there I'm missing for analog vs digital servos?
I've got another servo on order, so we'll see if the issue goes away with that.
I replaced the JX Ecoboost servo with the original one, and it works fine. I have a DSServo coming today, as well as some larger capacitors to make some glitch busters. I'll test every combination out.Thx
Weird...you may have mentioned this but without installing it does it do the same if you plugged this servo in the receiver of another RC?
Okay, so I got the capacitors and new servo in. First I tried the JX Ecoboost with 10,000 uF of capacitors, and it still glitches. However, I noticed that when I moved the servo body around in space, the glitches would disappear in certain locations, and get worse in others. It doesn't appear to happen near the receiver antennas, but gets really bad when the servo is right above the ESC. It also related to where the servo body is, not the wires. So somehow the internals of the servo are picking up noise from the ESC. Since the servo tray is directly next to the ESC, I just don't think this particular servo will work for me.I have a DSServo coming today, as well as some larger capacitors to make some glitch busters. I'll test every combination out.
Okay, so I got the capacitors and new servo in. First I tried the JX Ecoboost with 10,000 uF of capacitors, and it still glitches. However, I noticed that when I moved the servo body around in space, the glitches would disappear in certain locations, and get worse in others. It doesn't appear to happen near the receiver antennas, but gets really bad when the servo is right above the ESC. It also related to where the servo body is, not the wires. So somehow the internals of the servo are picking up noise from the ESC. Since the servo tray is directly next to the ESC, I just don't think this particular servo will work for me.
I plugged in the DS digital servo, and the glitching doesn't happen, regardless of where I locate it. I was also able to remove the capacitors with no issues. So I guess for now I'll use the DSServo. I do like the construction of the JX Ecoboost much better, so maybe if the DSServo ever goes I'll try another one.
Thanks for the input guys, it was appreciated. I took this buggy out today and it flies. I love it. I just wish there was a track closer than an hour away (I'm in Central Connecticut, and RC hobbies just don't seem to be the thing here).
Thanks,
Patrick
Just got my tekno front and rear shafts, already had the scte 2.0 center shafts. Really tempted to get a sensored 4s system and try to compete with purpose built race buggies. My only concern is that i'm not sure the diffs could handle it.
Hey guys, I'm looking at getting a new servo for my db pro, the stock spektrum is painfully slow now, think its about done!, only run around 10 packs!
looking through the thread a ds servo seems a good choice what kg/speed should I go for? Any links to help out would be greatly appreciated.
I'm going to pick up a alu servo horn too so not worried about a 23t spline.
Cheers Gaz
Thanks for the reply, I did look at the savox servos too, I also seen the power hd 25kg which is in-between the ds and savox for price.Well, my $0.02 I bought a Savox 1258 and would I do it again, no...did not need one this costly for this DB Pro and just followed someone here. Yes, it is good and works well but the Amazon DSxxxx 25kg or 30kg for this 2S or 3S rig will do fine as it does for my Big Rock, Granite, some with the Kraton they work and are cheap. Lots like them and a few do not like the Chinese-made servo. Does it last...have others had a bad experience yes...for the cost easy to replace "if" you need to.
Just my opinion
25kg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLMDJQ7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
30kg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088KJGM4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good pick and it will be...I ended up getting the ds3235 waterproof 35kg for £19. Was the same price as the 25kg so got it..
I'll update when it's here and fitted, hopefully it'll be an improvement on the stock spektrum..
Thanks for the help!
Cheers Gaz
Ds3235 fitted and tested, loads faster and seems to have a lot more torque which is good.
I also used the supplied 25t aluminium servo horn, does the job and seems well made but looks a bit big, what do you think?
No complaints from me for the price
View attachment 202879
Not going to change it, I think at first it looked a bit big because it is bigger than the stock spektrum plastic horn but it does have a good radius and turns without any obstruction..Looks good to me. It fits and has a good 90deg angle using the second hole....
If over time the optics both you, replace it.
I did use a smaller Losi one but I had to drill out the hole a bit for the arm to the Ackerman...
just fyi...along a VERY similar line i converted my DB pro over to 4s about a year ago and have not had any issues with diffs, cups or anything else. i use a surpass hobby 3670 motor at 2650kv and use the same ZEEE 4s lipo in the video. Fits right in with a mod to the battery clamp similar to the video. Runs nice and cool and lots of zip with 4s so i'd fully recommend. Won't compete with purpose built race buggies but it sure is fun. The surpass motor has been great even though its cheap as heck. The only thing i'll add is that the weight (battery mostly) does push the suspension to its max i'd say. Its fine for general bashing but I wouldn't do any big sends with the 4s in there and you'll feel that big ol bricks momentum in the car on a track.Well wanted 4S...here it is. Like this video REALLY simple how he explained it and what he did for 4S on the Losi DB Pro...even for the larger battery. I would still remove the soft diff outdrives for the Tekno and driveshafts. This is a keeper video:
I’ve been running a 4s setup in my DB for about two years now. I put a Leopard 2400kv motor in there with a Hobbywing Max 8 esc. I think I’m running either a 16 or 17t pinion in there. Running a 5000mah soft pack lipo from RCjuice.com. Runs like a champ and it’s not weighed down by the battery. Tops out at 50-55mph the way I have it set up. Also have 17mm hexes in it and run 1/8th buggy wheels on it. It’s my favorite rig out of my fleet. Good for speeding around fields and loose dirt lots and such. Really fun buggy. Haven’t had any problems with the diffs or anything else in the drivetrain. One of the stock bearings blew out, but repLaced all of them with some Fast Eddys.Well wanted 4S...here it is. Like this video REALLY simple how he explained it and what he did for 4S on the Losi DB Pro...even for the larger battery. I would still remove the soft diff outdrives for the Tekno and driveshafts. This is a keeper video:
It will be a little slower. Here is my tracking with a 2600kv so you will be "slightly" faster than mine with your 2650kv but wont be as fast as the 3150kv. It will definitely run cooler though and you can always go to 4s and be fast. I NEVER get hot with my surpass 2600kv on 3s (its a 3670 can).I'm not the best at calculating this out so banking on the 2650kv motor and 17T to be faster and still cooler at 3S.
It will be a little slower. Here is my tracking with a 2600kv so you will be "slightly" faster than mine with your 2650kv but wont be as fast as the 3150kv. It will definitely run cooler though and you can always go to 4s and be fast. I NEVER get hot with my surpass 2600kv on 3s (its a 3670 can).
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Looks like it would run quick 3s on the 22t pinion with the 2650kv motor, how do you think the temps would be though?It will be a little slower. Here is my tracking with a 2600kv so you will be "slightly" faster than mine with your 2650kv but wont be as fast as the 3150kv. It will definitely run cooler though and you can always go to 4s and be fast. I NEVER get hot with my surpass 2600kv on 3s (its a 3670 can).
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