Outcast Tired of blowing diffs with the XLX2 and 1100kv!

[Jeppyjep]

I have the same set up Xlx2 and 1100kv in my outcast and I was blowing my center diff 3 different times I went with a bullet proof RC locked 7075 aluminum locker that replaces all internal gears and I used m2c pins and it’s been great

 

[Moirae]

I have the same set up Xlx2 and 1100kv in my outcast and I was blowing my center diff 3 different times I went with a bullet proof RC locked 7075 aluminum locker that replaces all internal gears and I used m2c pins and it’s been great

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Can you put the part number for those pins? You are liking this setup? that's basically the same as having a spool right? always read bashing with a spool is not good. You don't really notice a difference?

 

[Jeppyjep]

Can you put the part number for those pins? You are liking this setup? that's basically the same as having a spool right? always read bashing with a spool is not good. You don't really notice a difference?

I keep the front and rear diff fluids 50f/30r and it’s fun and yea I guess it would be like a spool . Pins below

I keep the front and rear diff fluids 50f/30r and it’s fun and yea I guess it would be like a spool . Pins below

I like the set up the best by far it cranks wheelies and temps have Been good . I’m though 5 packs and everything is good

 

[Moirae]

I keep the front and rear diff fluids 50f/30r and it’s fun and yea I guess it would be like a spool . Pins below

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I like the set up the best by far it cranks wheelies and temps have Been good . I’m though 5 packs and everything is good

Thanks fam, I will definitely keep this in mind if my center diff starts showing signs of funny business.

 

[Jeppyjep]

Thanks fam, I will definitely keep this in mind if my center diff starts showing signs of funny business.

No doubt happy holidays !

 

[Armarookie43]

Last time I was out, I desimated my front bulkhead. So I took the opportunity to check the front diff bolts. So after like 10 runs with lower punch (three of the those runs were done with the smaller 1100kv 5687 motor), it looks like the front diff is still holding up well finally. I'll check the rear diff after around 6 runs (I've got 4 in at least). I'm assuming the rear diff should fine too with punch control at 100 and the smaller 5687 HW motor. Stand by

 

[stock20]

Did several speed runs this weekend, including one exclusively on pavement in huge business park lot. Was driving Kraton 8s like I hated it and the Vitavon diffs held up great. Thank you Jebus!

The parking lot run allowed me to go 100% on the throttle for 5-10 seconds a time before running out of space. Measured diff temps F/R at metal outdrive around 80F. Also measured 90F directly at top of center diff case (hottest spot I could find).

Sidenote that I'm shocked the stock tires made it through all this unscathed. Was quite "fun" trying to control at 60mph with tires on their tippy toes. Mashers X will be delivered this week.

 

[Armarookie43]

Did several speed runs this weekend, including one exclusively on pavement in huge business park lot. Was driving Kraton 8s like I hated it and the Vitavon diffs held up great. Thank you Jebus!

The parking lot run allowed me to go 100% on the throttle for 5-10 seconds a time before running out of space. Measured diff temps F/R at metal outdrive around 80F. Also measured 90F directly at top of center diff case (hottest spot I could find).

Sidenote that I'm shocked the stock tires made it through all this unscathed. Was quite "fun" trying to control at 60mph with tires on their tippy toes. Mashers X will be delivered this week.

I love my new Masher X tires. They allow for fast speeds off road with lots of traction

 

[stock20]

I love my new Masher X tires. They allow for fast speeds off road with lots of traction

Yes! Probably the single best upgrade I'll ever do on this rig. However, with each upgrade a new problem is introduced...lol. I've had the same 30t pinion on there for 10+ runs with the stock tires. Now it falls off regularly with the Mashers. Definitely a sign the truck is getting better traction. Nothing else about the setup has changed besides the tires.

 

[stock20]

Yes! Probably the single best upgrade I'll ever do on this rig. However, with each upgrade a new problem is introduced...lol. I've had the same 30t pinion on there for 10+ runs with the stock tires. Now it falls off regularly with the Mashers. Definitely a sign the truck is getting better traction. Nothing else about the setup has changed besides the tires.

Man do I wish I still only had the pinion issue to worry about...

 

[Surchaufeur]

Important to make sure the threadlock is put at the tip of the screw. If you want to try for one last time fill the bottom of the hole with red threadlock same for the screw and you should have a perfect bond. I think at this point also clean the inside of the thread with god knows what. Silicone is not easy to remove. Thats why i hate to work on these things. You pul grease everywhere and next time u run ur truck is filled with mud

 

[Surchaufeur]

Make the diffs massive and make a concrete truck but the diffs fail because the screw sizes for the cases are an odd size that nobody uses
They invested a lot of energy into it and it didnt result in what they were expecting. The trucks always on sale They discontinued the exb lineup. please get ur stuff togueter... countless of them in marketplace for 450$ after everything is destroyed in the inside.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I hope you find a solution to the issue. If locktite cant fix it idk what cant. I think theres an orange locktite or something stringer than red

 

[Armarookie43]

I hope you find a solution to the issue. If locktite cant fix it idk what cant. I think theres an orange locktite or something stringer than red

So far so good after like 10 runs for the front diffs and green loctite. I used a different brand of loctite though that is oil resistant. I think it made a difference. And I also didn't try to over tighten the bolts. Furthermore, I'm using the smaller 5687 HW and 5692 HobbyStar motors with punch control at 100 on my XLX2. I think all those combined have been working well so far. I think that the 2028 sized motors are torque monster that need to be tamed. But I don't like them anymore since they fail due to the fact that they are not supported in the rear. At least my Castle 2028 motor died after like a year. I'm assuming it was that. A 2lb motor slapping into the chassis after huge jumps is a recipe for disaster in the long run. I'll see how these smaller motors hold up. But for comparison, my 5687 inside my X-Maxx has had no problems after 3 years. And that one has no support in the rear either. Checked the rear diff on my Outcast 8s after like 5 runs, and the bolts were still tight. Looking good. I'll continue to keep logs of how many times I've ran my rigs . This is the loctite I used :
Green M620 High Temperature... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BFGRF9S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[Armarookie43]

I hope you find a solution to the issue. If locktite cant fix it idk what cant. I think theres an orange locktite or something stringer than red

So after like 20 runs, my front diff bolts got loose in my front diff of my K8S this time. I checked the front diff of my O8S, and they were not tight 100% but at least they didn't get too lose. Both vehicles had about 20 packs through them. I'm going to take out the bolts, clean them with Brake cleaner and try again. At least they went 20 packs this time with punch control at 100% on the XLX2 and the smaller motors. Even the rear bolts on the K8S diff were loose. Crazy. And yes, the internal gears on the diff on the K8S got wrecked.

 

[Mirkdiggler]

What kind of diff cases are you using ?

 

[SrC]

Yeah I have seen this problem with all 3 of our 8s trucks. Thnakfully I have never actually killed the diff, managed to hear it before it did any real damage. But it does seem like a bit of a flaw. I am assuming you let the loctite get nice and dry (24 hours) before running it?

24 hours and TL won't Cure anymore than it can at this point.

What kind of diff cases are you using ?

Those look like the Arrma Metal Option diff's to me...


Many have this issue with the 8s diffs. You are not alone. And many have the screws shear right off at the heads. Count your blessings that you catch them in time before they do.
I find that CRC "Chlorinated", the Red can, Brake cleaner spray works very fast for cleaning the diff parts. The CRC Green Can is NON chlorinated. Not as strong. Silicone oil is funny. It doesn't clean off as well or quickly with many other degreasers. Electrical Contact spray also is a good option. Just costs way more $$.

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

24 hours and TL won't Cure anymore than it can at this point.

Those look like the Arrma Metal Option diff's to me...


Many have this issue with the 8s diffs. You are not alone. And many have the screws shear right off at the heads. Count your blessings that you catch them in time before they do.
I find that CRC "Chlorinated", the Red can, Brake cleaner spray works very fast for cleaning the diff parts. The CRC Green Can is NON chlorinated. Not as strong. Silicone oil is funny. It doesn't clean off as well or quickly with many other degreasers. Electrical Contact spray also is a good option. Just costs way more $$.

huh?

 

[SrC]

huh?

 

[Armarookie43]

24 hours and TL won't Cure anymore than it can at this point.

Those look like the Arrma Metal Option diff's to me...


Many have this issue with the 8s diffs. You are not alone. And many have the screws shear right off at the heads. Count your blessings that you catch them in time before they do.
I find that CRC "Chlorinated", the Red can, Brake cleaner spray works very fast for cleaning the diff parts. The CRC Green Can is NON chlorinated. Not as strong. Silicone oil is funny. It doesn't clean off as well or quickly with many other degreasers. Electrical Contact spray also is a good option. Just costs way more $$.

Been there done that already. Some of my bolts have sheared off inside the diff cases too.

What kind of diff cases are you using ?

The upgraded Arrma 8s cases