TP 4070 for Limitless build - questions about options

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Arrma RC's
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Looking at a TP 4070 for a Limitless build that I will be pairing with a MAX5. Did a little bit of research but thought I’d ask about opinions for the available options:

1) 5mm vs 8mm shaft - any reason to go for one vs another?

2) Vented vs sealed end caps? I assume vented is fine for a Limitless being run on asphalt

3) 2080 vs 2250 - any preferred KV for 6s?

Thanks!
 
Looking at a TP 4070 for a Limitless build that I will be pairing with a MAX5. Did a little bit of research but thought I’d ask about opinions for the available options:

1) 5mm vs 8mm shaft - any reason to go for one vs another?

2) Vented vs sealed end caps? I assume vented is fine for a Limitless being run on asphalt

3) 2080 vs 2250 - any preferred KV for 6s?

Thanks!

Have you run your car much yet? They get really dirty/dusty inside. I actually like sealed caps more. Check the specs and make sure its M4 screws that work with Arrmas. FYI most of the heat is shed from the motor case with heatsinks/fans. Open vents would require often maintenance of compressed air and possibly disassembly/bearing cleaning.

I suppose the question is what will you be doing with it? I assume drag since you are going with a Max5? The Max5 does great for drag uses.

If it is for speed I would recommend the MMX8s or XLX2 as better ESCs to take you past 120mph.

In general 2200-2700 kv is good for 6s use, however lower KV does have more torque and just requires more gearing to make up the RPM difference. If you look at guys Running 140+ (on 8s) on the new 1100 kv castle 2028 motor is due to the torque and required a massive pinion.
 
Thanks for the response and for the additional questions for thought. Honestly, I’m not sure what I’ll be doing with it as I don’t really have the space or wallet for speed running so probably more of a drag car but truth be told, I bought the ESC before I had a purpose and now just trying to pair up a motor with it. So yeah, probably should have done a little more homework, but here we are...

@LibertyMKiii - any reason not to stick with a 5mm shaft and go 8mm?
 
With a motor with the right KV, 8mm is less important IMO. If you were running a low kv motor and needed to gear up to make up for the lack of speed, say a 1250kv, then an 8mm bore would make it easier to find huge pinions.
 
Thanks for the response and for the additional questions for thought. Honestly, I’m not sure what I’ll be doing with it as I don’t really have the space or wallet for speed running so probably more of a drag car but truth be told, I bought the ESC before I had a purpose and now just trying to pair up a motor with it. So yeah, probably should have done a little more homework, but here we are...

@LibertyMKiii - any reason not to stick with a 5mm shaft and go 8mm?

There was a time when people feared the 5mm shafts because they were breaking. I think that rumor has stuck around so long that everyone recommends 8mm now... I have had at least 4 TP Motors with 5mm shafts and no issues.... Most of my pinion collection is 5mm, so I like to stick with that.

For reference most of their motors for 1/8 and larger scale RC cars is a 8mm shaft through the motor and they mill it down to 5mm only in the area where the pinion goes.

Just a reminder again to be sure you get the end cap with M4 screws for mounting in an Arrma. Many "in stock" motors are M3.
 
There was a time when people feared the 5mm shafts because they were breaking. I think that rumor has stuck around so long that everyone recommends 8mm now... I have had at least 4 TP Motors with 5mm shafts and no issues.... Most of my pinion collection is 5mm, so I like to stick with that.

For reference most of their motors for 1/8 and larger scale RC cars is a 8mm shaft through the motor and they mill it down to 5mm only in the area where the pinion goes.

Just a reminder again to be sure you get the end cap with M4 screws for mounting in an Arrma. Many "in stock" motors are M3.
Where's the best place to purchase TP motors? I'm looking for the 4070 2250kv sealed w/m4 mounting. Preferably 5mm shaft, like you said 👆most of my pinions are 5mm. Not a deal breaker if I find 8mm though.
 
Where's the best place to purchase TP motors? I'm looking for the 4070 2250kv sealed w/m4 mounting. Preferably 5mm shaft, like you said 👆most of my pinions are 5mm. Not a deal breaker if I find 8mm though.
I either buy from the TPPOWERUSA website or from rmamba on eBay.
 
I either buy from the TPPOWERUSA website or from rmamba on eBay.

As Jon mentioned I go direct to them. Under motors > In Stock regular motors. The 4070 motors will be on the last page.

https://www.tppowerusa.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_71_140&product_id=308
Thank you both! Looks like I can build my own. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I don’t see an option for 2250kv🤷🏻‍♂️, but I do see 2200kv. I know that the vented caps will allow dirt/dust in, but do they help with motor temps? Once again, new to the speed run scene. This will be my first TP motor and really don’t know much about them. Do they run hot? I know my 1717 castle has been pretty solid so far without running fans.
 
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Thank you both! Looks like I can build my own. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I don’t seen a option for 2250kv🤷🏻‍♂️, but I do see 2200kv. I know that the vented caps will allow dirt/dust in, but do they help with motor temps? Once again, new to the speed run scene. This will be my first TP motor and really don’t know much about them. Do they run hot? I know my 1717 castle has been pretty solid so far without running fans.
Vented caps are the way to go for on-road cars. Obviously if you are bashing off-road you wanna keep the dirt out.

Here’s the direct link to the 2250

http://www.tppowerusa.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=308
 
Thank you both! Looks like I can build my own. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I don’t see an option for 2250kv🤷🏻‍♂️, but I do see 2200kv. I know that the vented caps will allow dirt/dust in, but do they help with motor temps? Once again, new to the speed run scene. This will be my first TP motor and really don’t know much about them. Do they run hot? I know my 1717 castle has been pretty solid so far without running fans.
On-road cars suck up a ton of dust if it a full GT body. Typhon wouldn't be this way....
I prefer sealed end caps myself. You build up a ton of heat during a 6-10 second run and I don't feel the vented end caps make a big enough difference to be worth the dust/debris getting in to potentially damage something.

The build-your-own will take 2-6 months. Always shop the in-stock first if you can. That link I provided has what you want for the in-stock 2250 kv model.
 
Thank you both! Looks like I can build my own. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I don’t see an option for 2250kv🤷🏻‍♂️, but I do see 2200kv. I know that the vented caps will allow dirt/dust in, but do they help with motor temps? Once again, new to the speed run scene. This will be my first TP motor and really don’t know much about them. Do they run hot? I know my 1717 castle has been pretty solid so far without running fans.
I know this post is a bit old but all I run is tp power motors and for a drag car especially on the max 5 the 2200kv is a beast. Def go sealed to keep dirt and dust outta the bearings. Also remember tp is what is called a delta motor and are real finicky when trying to advance timing. Pull all timing out and they run very efficient.
 
+1
Yeah D winds with any timing is a no no.
Even with my Y winds, I am conservative with timing if any at all.
Temps shoot up easily. Works against any small Timing RPM gain you might get.
Def. a sealed can IMHO. Or you will become a slave to cleaning that expensive TP motor.:rolleyes:
On road running gets dirtier than you would think. The armature can get bricked easily with debris ingress. What little cooling advantage of an open end bell there is will be outweighed by the high risk of arm. damage.
5mm shaft is fine for 6s running. On road.
Higher torque 8s running with off road rigs, 8mm may be better.
 
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+1
Yeah D winds with any timing is a no no.
Even with my Y winds, I am conservative with timing if any at all.
Temps shoot up easily. Works against any small Timing RPM gain you might get.
Def. a sealed can IMHO. Or you will become a slave to cleaning that expensive TP motor.:rolleyes:
On road running gets dirtier than you would think. The armature can get bricked easily with debris ingress. What little cooling advantage of an open end bell there is will be outweighed by the high risk of arm. damage.
5mm shaft is fine for 6s running. On road.
Higher torque 8s running with off road rigs, 8mm may be better.
Exactly. Not a lot of people know this. Yea even Y winds like you said aren’t worth upping the timing for such little rpm gains. Better off keeping the timing out to have a more efficient running car and people think because it’s an on road car vented is ok but they def don’t realize how much dirt and debris gets kicked up at 140 plus mph lol and personally I use 8mm shaft on everything. I like being able to swap pinions and spurs around for best tuning
 
I know this post is a bit old but all I run is tp power motors and for a drag car especially on the max 5 the 2200kv is a beast. Def go sealed to keep dirt and dust outta the bearings. Also remember tp is what is called a delta motor and are real finicky when trying to advance timing. Pull all timing out and they run very efficient.
What do u mean pull all timing out
 
I built a limitless Xlx2 TP 4070 now every time I go to punch it it’s like the power gets shut off if I get on it smooth there is no problem she goes can’t figure it out the voltage cutoff is turned off if anyone knows please need help
 
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