Granite Voltage Series Diff Outdrive Issues?

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YOUR RIGHT!!!
Sorry Jimmjam for my miss information.. and thank-you for the correction I missed that! So stoked right now!!

found this post today.. I think it could work for us as well

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/upgrade-mega-bls-plastic-transmission-to-blx-metal.596/

This is what I think we will need to try this.. but please give me your thoughts
AR310597 0.8M COMPOSITE GEAR SET (you said you found a metal one?)
AR310378 DIFFERENTIAL GEAR MAINTENANCE SET
AR310399 GEAR DIFF OUTDRIVE (2PCS)
 
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I've modeled and successfully 3D printed a replacement diff outdrive for the Granite Voltage Mega 2WD. Maybe this also works for other Arrma vehicles? You can find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3414192 and print your own (ABS or Nylon recommended)

I also posted about it at this link in the forum: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/3d-printed-replacement-diff-outdrive.10049/

Doing testing this weekend to see how durable it really is. But, since the part is backordered and my son really wants to drive his truck again, I printed a handful of spares.

If it doesn't work well, I'm going to look into making some metal replacements.
 

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I'd say it's these ones from the vorza flux.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hpi-5x13x20mm-differential-pinion-gear-drive-cup-hpi103663/p158699

I originally was going to get the ones from a blx 6s as i have a kraton and outcast already but my shop only had the hpi ones, not sure if there's any size difference between the brands.

View attachment 26523

They are pretty snug fit at normal ride height so i had to make sure i got them as close to the chassis/diff as possible without binding up. If i wanted to i could probably shave a mm off the back of them to fit easier but so far so good. I don't drive it as much these days having a kraton and outcast haha.

I can confirm that is the right part # (hpi103663) and that they can be made to work with a few tweaks. First, you need to remove a bit of material from the back (chassis end) of the HPI cup. Not much, maybe 1/16" inch. Otherwise it binds up if the suspension is compressed at all. I just used a grinding wheel on an angle grinder. Second, you need to enlarge the cutout in the plastic chassis where the outdrive cup mounts, otherwise the drive cup binds up. I used a small snap-blade utility knife and just carved a bit of plastic off. You don't need to remove much.

Note also that the HPI cup is significantly longer than the stock plastic one. This means that the dogbone hits the edge of the cup before the suspension is fully compressed. I don't know if it matters as I suspect the suspension doesn't bottom out that often in normal driving. If it's an issue, I think cutting 3/16" off of the open end of the HPI cup likely fixes it.

Now we'll see if the other end strips out....

30408
30409
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YOUR RIGHT!!!
Sorry Jimmjam for my miss information.. and thank-you for the correction I missed that! So stoked right now!!

found this post today.. I think it could work for us as well

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/upgrade-mega-bls-plastic-transmission-to-blx-metal.596/

This is what I think we will need to try this.. but please give me your thoughts
AR310597 0.8M COMPOSITE GEAR SET (you said you found a metal one?)
AR310378 DIFFERENTIAL GEAR MAINTENANCE SET
AR310399 GEAR DIFF OUTDRIVE (2PCS)
it said it was metal. Got it in this weekend and its composite. need the maintenance set and the outdrives. im a lil broke at the moment so it might be awhile before i can purchase them.
 
One problem i see with it is the outdrives are installed from the inside of the diff. So they wont fit through the chassis holes once installed
 
I can confirm that is the right part # (hpi103663) and that they can be made to work with a few tweaks. First, you need to remove a bit of material from the back (chassis end) of the HPI cup. Not much, maybe 1/16" inch. Otherwise it binds up if the suspension is compressed at all. I just used a grinding wheel on an angle grinder. Second, you need to enlarge the cutout in the plastic chassis where the outdrive cup mounts, otherwise the drive cup binds up. I used a small snap-blade utility knife and just carved a bit of plastic off. You don't need to remove much.

Note also that the HPI cup is significantly longer than the stock plastic one. This means that the dogbone hits the edge of the cup before the suspension is fully compressed. I don't know if it matters as I suspect the suspension doesn't bottom out that often in normal driving. If it's an issue, I think cutting 3/16" off of the open end of the HPI cup likely fixes it.

Now we'll see if the other end strips out....
So... Did anyone try the 6s blx Cups that were being discussed prior? I only see reference to the HPI version but wanted to double check.
 
Been through 4 diff cups so far and wanted to find out y it was happening. So i did some running on 3s today on the granite voltage and noticed the differential leaks oil on the shaft causing the plastic to turn into oily black goo then when it starts spinning in the cup the shaft essentially cuts away the plastic.
Am I correct that these are NOT oil filled differentials from the factory?
 
They are oil filled with metal gears. Same gears as the blx 3s.
Who knew!!!?!??!

Anywho, warranty was slow as hell sending me the cups, A Main hobbies had then in stock and shipped as quickly as Amazon prime, FYI.

What oil goes in the voltage gearbox and what's the fill procedure?
 
Who knew!!!?!??!

Anywho, warranty was slow as hell sending me the cups, A Main hobbies had then in stock and shipped as quickly as Amazon prime, FYI.

What oil goes in the voltage gearbox and what's the fill procedure?
well the diff gear comes full of fluid and it doesn't specify what fluid comes stock. but u should add grease to the outside of the diff, idler gear and input shaft
 
By outside of the diff, do you mean where the outdrive stub shaft exits the chassis? I put white lithium grease on both ends of the spur gear when changing the pinion. What other places can it be installed without a separating the chassis?
 
By outside of the diff, do you mean where the outdrive stub shaft exits the chassis? I put white lithium grease on both ends of the spur gear when changing the pinion. What other places can it be installed without a separating the chassis?
none
 
Well the diff drive cup issue happened to me today!. I have been running Lipo 2S 30C but with the throttle adjusted to 50% for the last 3 weeks. Today i got brave and turned it to 100%. The voltage was running on grass taking jumps to a height of 1 meter. I knew they would go the same as some other Voltage owners on here. Now to look for alternative diff drive cups as suggested here in this forum that i have read before. This is a great truck and will lead people further into the hobby, unless they loose interest with this particular part breaking. I just hope the "creators" try and assist us to fix the issue with the diff drive cups. Onwards and upwards... lol..
 
Welcome to the unwelcomed experience!

Just buy two packs of spares. It's kind of Like breaking a bone riding a bicycle, you always are fearful when you get on the bike again. But it’s really not that bad of an experience. They’ll break, you spent four minutes and swap it out, you’ll be back rocking in no time.
 
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