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Order is in for 8 x Diff Outdrive cups, 1 x Spur gear and 1 x Diff and idler set.
I had that happen to me. I'm putting a fan over the opening on top of the motor. I think because the shaft sits above the motor it heats up and melts it. The diff and idler gear had no damage. I had to order a new chassis also because it melted the bearing slotWe blew/melted teeth on the small end of the spur gear after we installed a 550 12T Traxxas motor. It was faster but the way the gears looked was very strange.
So I'm waiting for the same parts...
Dood, that makes total sense. It was motor heat that caused the issue, NOT heat from friction between the gears. I thought it might have been some chemical reaction with the white lithium grease I had just applied that caused some kind of reaction with the plastic the gears were made out of.I had that happen to me. I'm putting a fan over the opening on top of the motor. I think because the shaft sits above the motor it heats up and melts it. The diff and idler gear had no damage. I had to order a new chassis also because it melted the bearing slot
You need to switch out your screws to metric hex. those Philips heads are terrible. looks like the motor mount holes are going to poop on u alsoDood, that makes total sense. It was motor heat that caused the issue, NOT heat from friction between the gears. I thought it might have been some chemical reaction with the white lithium grease I had just applied that caused some kind of reaction with the plastic the gears were made out of.
We noted an abnormally silent car at one point. We had done a few top speed runs up and down the block when it flipped a few houses away sat upside down. My son ran to right it, but in the interim, the 13t motor was roasting and heat soaking everything around it including the adjacent spur gear and motor mount area.
The next two or three runs past us we both commented the car was weirdly quiet, almost silent. The heat softened gears must've been absorbing sound as they mushed away.
Yesterday, I installed a brushless system in my other Granite Voltage. It ran it without problems and stayed much, much cooler. Put another 50 minutes on it today with a 2s 6200mAh battery and not a single issue, plus it is even faster than the 550.
What about the cracks in the lower mounting holes? Wondering if I should replace the chassis, considering I'm gonna have it apart to repair the gearbox anyway.You need to switch out your screws to metric hex. those Philips heads are terrible. looks like the motor mount holes are going to poop on u also
Doesn't take long to take it apart but do yourself a favor and upgrade the screws. I was trying to reuse them and and a deep chassis screw stripped on me. Took more time getting that screw out than it did for the whole disassembly.What about the cracks in the lower mounting holes? Wondering if I should replace the chassis, considering I'm gonna have it apart to repair the gearbox anyway.
What's your time estimate on parting the chassis out to swap out the internal gears? Also, what diff fluid should be installed?
Yup hit the hardware storeDo you recommend anything specific or just getting some metric fasteners from the hardware store that are the same thread pitch and length with whatever head I prefer?
I get mine from work which is handyYup hit the hardware store
Can do the same thing on the worn/stripped outdrives. Been thinking of doing this lately as an option. I think a 2mm or 3mm diameter at preferred lengthgrub screw would assist regardless if 5mm inside diameter of outdrives is worn or not. Best to start with worn/stripped ones first.Everything else on the truck seems solid. I am going to try drilling my next set of Drivecups and adding a grub screw that will apply some pressure to the flat part of the metal spline. It might be tossing $5 out the window but I am willing to try anything at this point.
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