Kraton Why do my diffs keep burning up?

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Arrmaspook

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I am not sure what's going on with my princess but I keep putting holes in my center diff in the kraton v5 6s?

I have a hot racing center diff but it doesn't seem to fit the kraton standard replacement?

Awaiting the arma red metal diffs to see if those work with the standard replacement parts.

There's definitely was a clicking sound while it was running ...but i was having too much fun to stop until the it's burned out and stopped on its own...

Any suggestions?!

Thanks for the help in advance.

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Yikes! I’ve never seen that. You say you keep putting holes in them meaning this is not the first time it has happened? Are you filling up the diff with diff fluid? Are you using the gasket made to seal the fluid in? Seems like that diff goes into wide open diff mode and burns the gears out. Are you noticing a lot of ballooning of the front tires while hitting the throttle?
 
I did notice crazy ballooning today. I was worried that I had over filled it with 500k diff fluid and that there was too much pressure...going to rebuild another one today new seals and all. I could not salvage anything other that the spur gear portion, the rest is sealed in molten magma...

Thanks...
 
I usually remove the side grub screw when filling up. Once I close up the diff with the ring/spur gear, i lay the diff on its side at an angle where the grub screw hole is facing upward and at the top for about 5min, if that makes sense. Fluid will come out a bit and I remove some where the threads for the grub screw goes and reinstall the grub screw
 
Yes, changed the front diff this morning as it was still making clicking noises...and the front pinon gear was nearly flattened, but that's gtg now...
I checked and only have f/r planetary gears, unfortunately. The center diff obviously has different ones...i hope to find the set with just the gears as the rest is not needed!..

Thanks for the replies!
 
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Yes, changed the front diff this morning as it was still making clicking noises...and the front pinon gear was nearly flattened, but that's gtg now...
I checked and only have f/r planetary gears, unfortunately. The center diff obviously has different ones...i hope to find the set with just the gears as the rest is not needed!..

Thanks for the replies!


All the diffs are the same..internals.. cups.. output cups..shims.. all the same..👍

You want to stop burning up center cups run thicker fluid... But no matter what weight you use, it doesn't work when it's empty..😉
 
How many times has this happened?

This is probably reaching a bit but have you made sure that the front input and ring gear are the same as the rear input and ring gear? Otherwise things won’t be turning at the same rate in the front and rear and cause a center diff to overheat/blow up. Heck someone a few weeks ago showed a mismarked crown gear that was marked GP5 and had a GP6 tooth count
 
All the diffs are the same..internals.. cups.. output cups..shims.. all the same..👍

You want to stop burning up center cups run thicker fluid... But no matter what weight you use, it doesn't work when it's empty..😉
Aon1101
That hot racing case looks like the 3s diff case, not the 6s diff case. Which part# is it?
AON1101
All the diffs are the same..internals.. cups.. output cups..shims.. all the same..👍

You want to stop burning up center cups run thicker fluid... But no matter what weight you use, it doesn't work when it's empty..😉
Yeah..it's full when I put them together and wait to see if they leak, ect...

They are all the same inside...i am not sure why I was under the impression that the center had different spider gears...

Well i have crap ton of spider gears now...as well as several center 50t gears..ah well..

Thanks, i will keep at it until I master diff Building!
 
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Things are looking good so far going to let the HU diff sit and look for leaks. It spins nice with the 500k diff...it was user error, but such is the hobby. Life is about learning...

I appreciate the tips and support!!

Bash on!
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I am not sure what's going on with my princess but I keep putting holes in my center diff in the kraton v5 6s?

I have a hot racing center diff but it doesn't seem to fit the kraton standard replacement?

Awaiting the arma red metal diffs to see if those work with the standard replacement parts.

There's definitely was a clicking sound while it was running ...but i was having too much fun to stop until the it's burned out and stopped on its own...

Any suggestions?!

Thanks for the help in advance.

View attachment 127895View attachment 127896
Not caring for them enough. Low fluid and too thin oil.
Use 500k and make sure they are filled full and most importantly don't rush the fill. Air needs to be completly out or you are really underfilling them. Much air inside also brings temps up. I melted my first diff. Factory had it very low and with 100k. Now I never melt them. And also ended up going to the Arrma metal diff cup on some of my other 6s rigs. I have many of them. When my diff melted just like yours it was over 200F degrees. (temp gun)
 
The only times Ive had my diff cases heat up was when I didn't have enough fluid in them.
I've been running a 45t spool locked center and just tried the hot racing spiral cut and burned it up in the rear. Although I am running a v3 max 5 and a 600kv 8mm 45t motor lol. I'm going to figure out how to put 8s diffs in it and will post pics soon. Has anyone tried shimming the input pinions? That's next but I'm afraid it will generate too much heat.
 
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