Kraton My teeth keep getting sharp

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

maxgasmekl

Member
Messages
57
Reaction score
48
Hi - on my Kraton exb with the HW Max6 1650kv kombo, the teeth on the pinion keep getting worn very fast. They are stripped after 6-10 runs. Im aware that its a powerfull setup, but Im easy on the throttle and drives a 20t. The mesh is correct. A little on the loose side to try to keep the centerdiff cooler. The centerdiff gear is not very worn. Whats up?
Hi - on my Kraton exb with the HW Max6 1650kv kombo, the teeth on the pinion keep getting worn very fast. They are stripped after 6-10 runs. Im aware that its a powerfull setup, but Im easy on the throttle and drives a 20t. The mesh is correct. A little on the loose side to try to keep the centerdiff cooler. The centerdiff gear is not very worn. Whats up?
And in addition, it looks almost like the one side of the pinion teeth are pressed flat. I don't know if it makes any sense. Its like the spur hits the pinion like a hammer. But it should be able to withstand that? I guess?
 
Hi - on my Kraton exb with the HW Max6 1650kv kombo, the teeth on the pinion keep getting worn very fast. They are stripped after 6-10 runs. Im aware that its a powerfull setup, but Im easy on the throttle and drives a 20t. The mesh is correct. A little on the loose side to try to keep the centerdiff cooler. The centerdiff gear is not very worn. Whats up?

And in addition, it looks almost like the one side of the pinion teeth are pressed flat. I don't know if it makes any sense. Its like the spur hits the pinion like a hammer. But it should be able to withstand that? I guess?
Pic always helps

Without pic yes a better pinion but make sure that the mesh is right as you said a little tick but not tight.... I run the same power combo in my KEXB.
 
Sounds like you just need a higher quality pinion. Check out Tekno, Saga, or RRP.
I have tried Surpass and Arrmas hardened version. They both fail. And I have heard that the Tekno ones are stronger as you suggest. Also due to the bigger grubb screw. They are just har to find here in Denmark:)
 
Gears are a wear item. It's metal rubbing against metal (or sometimes plastic). Wear is exacerbated by poor contact (bad mesh), contaminants (anything that is harder than the gear metal), and power. Check that those conditions are right, and then if the wear keeps happening, upgrade to a higher quality pinion. Tekno is my go to.
 
All the Arrma pinions are rather softer metal and won't wear as long as any Tekno or Saga Customs gears. I find the smaller the pinions are, they wear faster in general.
I always set my mesh on the tighter side. Yet always with the slightest "Tick" of backlash play at all four points of the spur gear's rotation.
Mesh on the looser side will always accelerate wear. And like stated above by @Hector_Fisher , pinions are a wear item. Consumable parts.
If they are shot after 10 or so runs, then your mesh is just way too loose IMHO.
The spur gear usually outlives the pinion many times over. I have never needed to replaced one yet. As long as the mesh is good and on the tighter side.
But they do wear nonetheless. Any gear will.
Sometimes simply a small rock or pebble will get the best of the Spur and Pinion.
Always check the mesh with any new out the box rig. The mesh is usually all wrong. Either too loose and many times completely tight and slammed to each other from the factory. Been there.
That spells a quick fail, if you don't check it first before you run it.
Using Blue TL on the Grub screw is always a given.

>>>I always toss the Safe-D Circlip and the Crush sleeve on the Motors shaft. Not needed. If anything its a liability. Circlips cannot be reused or they fly off anyway.
And the Crush sleeve just binds up against the Inner race of the motors BB.(n)
Safe-D is not all that Safe IMHO. It's been there since the V5 line came out. No other brand does this. It's just HH Marketting, if anything..:cool:
Arrma has only has one type of standard pinion. And Surpass pinions are no better.
 
Last edited:
Sharp teeth will always occur at some point with a loose mesh, regardless of the quality of the chosen Gears.
Arrma never made "Hardened" Upgrade pinions. Last I heard.
 
Last edited:
I have tried Surpass and Arrmas hardened version. They both fail. And I have heard that the Tekno ones are stronger as you suggest. Also due to the bigger grubb screw. They are just har to find here in Denmark:)

If you can't find Tekno or Robinson Racing Losi makes some decent mod 1 pinions.
 
My fireteam has a 2028/XLX2 on 8S, so much more power. And I also use surpass pinions. And they definately should not wear in 6-10 runs, more like 30+ runs. F/R diffs wear quicker

As @SrC mentioned, go for a thighter mesh. If they wear harder on one side, i'd check all the bearings and cups around the center shafts they might cause some allignment/vibration causing the center to wobble. For starts, put your mesh tighter and check if the rolling resistance is equal on a full rollout
 
Something doesn't mesh right in your setup. I have MAx6 1650kV on Arrma pinion (18T) and probably 50 runs into it and no sign of excessive wear.
When you mesh, are you rotating the gears through all 4 quadrants, and they are ok in all sections?
 
Something doesn't mesh right in your setup. I have MAx6 1650kV on Arrma pinion (18T) and probably 50 runs into it and no sign of excessive wear.
When you mesh, are you rotating the gears through all 4 quadrants, and they are ok in all sections?
4? I'm anal and go all the way around like 50 times before I am satisfied :ROFLMAO:
 
Me also. I take my time with setting mesh. Done by Eye and Sound.
You get a feel for it after a while, that you get used to. I have a few Stocker pinions that have much mileage on. The smaller ones do tend to wear out faster regardless IMHO.
Sharp worn teeth simply means you have too loose of a mesh there.
 
Setting the mesh, I still use standard computer paper… I will always check after I set it tho…. No replacement for the sound and feel of a good mesh. The paper just gets it close or on the money most times…
 
Setting the mesh, I still use standard computer paper… I will always check after I set it tho…. No replacement for the sound and feel of a good mesh. The paper just gets it close or on the money most times…
Paper is good for starts. But always wise to check a 360 turn of the largest gear
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top